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Tell me about it, The wiring looked horrible before I touched it. I have no tubing for it once it is fixed.
Ill have to do research on a vacuum leak test. I have never done that before. Something new to learn yay!
Thanks for taking a look Eric, look forward to learning from you and others on this forums.
I’ve had a friend who has this exact same issue on his ’02? charger, and on my ’97 plymouth breeze over here in Oregon.
It deals with your coolant in one way shape or form. EIther over heating (due to many reason including air), thermostat going out or came loose (Can give reading, but doesn’t do its job), Cap loose.
Most common issue is air in the line/heater core.
Check you hoses, level of fluid, look for any kind of holes or cracks.
Does the sound begin IMMEDIATELY after starting it? Or within a few mins / miles?
I know you said it sounded bad this morning while Idling but did the sound start IMMEDIATELY after starting engine?
I would Check everything first for cracks, holes, looseness, missing. All hoses, connections, thermostat, caps, reservoir parts included. (Personally i would check it during both hot and cold temp) If nothing, I would try to run some dye in the coolant. Run the engine and inspect all said parts again. I would then bleed the system. to remove any air. (DO this step no matter what you do)
If for some reason these didn’t work, my next step If still nothing. I would flush the system, replace with new undyed coolant.
And repeat all steps above except DYE/Reflush.
For both my friend and I, we had a few cracks (looked external only/ didn’t pierce hose) we flushed and bled and double checked the thermo. Both of ours stopped making coffee.. Oh and ours started after getting warmer.
Hope this helps!
I search Autozone, ebay, Amazon, can’t find a swirl control valve in existence for my car? lol
Yet i see this phrase everywhere now and before you mentioned it.
Does it go by another name?
However when i look it up on google i get this image, and it looks alot like my unknown part??
Attachments:SO where is my SCV located. DO you see it in my pictures? Would it only affect one fuel injector pulse?
I can always get pictures and videos or whatever you need to see.When ever I unplug that RANDOM part
NOTHING changes in my engine what so ever. Is that my SCV pictured above?? marked with SPDB28 – 114A (cant find this anywhere on internet)..
I have a Haynes manual based on this car, but it gives me nothing about my engine. Everything they talk about is located in wrong locations. My ECM is in Firewall behind glove box, but under the engine hood. They say its in the dash board by feet center column..
I have been without this car for too long, and I have always been able to fix things myself. GO YOU TUBE VIDEOS AND RESEARCH!
RANDOM—Also when I unplug my EGR harness connector nothing changes as well. (But i heard this is normal).
P.S. WHich diagram are you looking at?
Attachments:Yes at one point i did get a Swirl control valve code i think that was the Nissan P1130. Guy at autozone didn’t know wtf the a SCV was..
Ill admit neither do/did I. SHould i replace that aswell, or does this confirm its the ECM?
Have you checked all you ignition coils? do you get sparks on each cylinders?
Have you pulled out the spark plugs and checked them just incase?
Does it start during warmer weather and have the issue more often in cold cranking?
More details are needed.
When did the issue start?
I can recheck but im pretty sure i got the same voltage 13-14V.
I get clicking sounds from all injectors, Sounds like injector not shutting off because constant voltage. but #3 sounds faster? just sounds different, where as #12 &4 sound exactly alike.
CAn it really be the ECM even though the terminal and solder points look perfect on the circuit board?
Reserved in case I need more space!
I can take and add more pictures if needed/wanted!! -
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