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I would line everything back up again. You need to get flywheel lined up TDC and check through the inspection hole that line is lined up. This should be the case on one of the cams. Then rotate the flywheel 360 degrees and the other cam should now be lined up.
If they are in fact both lined up and it is still making noises you may have more serious problems.
I would line everything back up again. You need to get flywheel lined up TDC and check through the inspection hole that line is lined up. This should be the case on one of the cams. Then rotate the flywheel 360 degrees and the other cam should now be lined up.
If they are in fact both lined up and it is still making noises you may have more serious problems.
I would check the obvious first such as plugs and wires. But from what you are describing could be a clogged EGR. Are you using NGK plugs?
I would check the obvious first such as plugs and wires. But from what you are describing could be a clogged EGR. Are you using NGK plugs?
Well, it was the off one tooth on the rear cam. Since I am so good at taking the truck apart at this point I had that done in about 2 hours. I then changed all 6 plugs. Damn those ones in the back are a bitch if you have that sport bumper thingy.
Now it runs like it did before I did the timing belt. It has a faint vibration in the steering wheel that has been there for a while but I am so glad that my hands are not shaking like I was driving the Roadking I use to have.
I did not do the valves but they are quiet and at this point I think I will try to tackle the slight vibration that not even the Honda dealer could figure out for another 10k or so. The one big mistake I made doing the timing belt was to not turn the flywheel 360 degrees to get the rear cam lined up. It looked lined up with the front cam reference in place but in fact was not.
Well, it was the off one tooth on the rear cam. Since I am so good at taking the truck apart at this point I had that done in about 2 hours. I then changed all 6 plugs. Damn those ones in the back are a bitch if you have that sport bumper thingy.
Now it runs like it did before I did the timing belt. It has a faint vibration in the steering wheel that has been there for a while but I am so glad that my hands are not shaking like I was driving the Roadking I use to have.
I did not do the valves but they are quiet and at this point I think I will try to tackle the slight vibration that not even the Honda dealer could figure out for another 10k or so. The one big mistake I made doing the timing belt was to not turn the flywheel 360 degrees to get the rear cam lined up. It looked lined up with the front cam reference in place but in fact was not.
Hmmmmmm, on my wife’s Odyssey it was not leaking but the front mount was definitely bad causing vibrations while accelerating.
This is not an extreme idle issue, but just a bit of shake. Can cam timing cause that without causing a performance issue? It is smooth as silk as soon as you give it a bit of gas.
I will do the plugs this weekend and the air filter and see if that helps as well. First thing tomorrow I am going to verify the cam timing though.
Hmmmmmm, on my wife’s Odyssey it was not leaking but the front mount was definitely bad causing vibrations while accelerating.
This is not an extreme idle issue, but just a bit of shake. Can cam timing cause that without causing a performance issue? It is smooth as silk as soon as you give it a bit of gas.
I will do the plugs this weekend and the air filter and see if that helps as well. First thing tomorrow I am going to verify the cam timing though.
Just did the engine reving test with the wife. In drive there is a small amount of movement when gunning the engine. I can see it flex a bit where the side mount is. Putting it in reverse though, there is considerable movement as the engine moves forward quite a bit.
I still plan on checking the cam timing, but once again, it does not seem like that is the problem unless others have seen the same being off a tooth in one direction or another on a single came shaft.
Just did the engine reving test with the wife. In drive there is a small amount of movement when gunning the engine. I can see it flex a bit where the side mount is. Putting it in reverse though, there is considerable movement as the engine moves forward quite a bit.
I still plan on checking the cam timing, but once again, it does not seem like that is the problem unless others have seen the same being off a tooth in one direction or another on a single came shaft.
Problem solved. It turned out it was all my fault. Additional to the black plastic end caps, there was an additional shipping plug inside the radiator pushed back about an inch. It was black and I did not notice it. Also, it was not mentioned in the paperwork that came with the Spectra radiator.
Uggghhh!
Problem solved. It turned out it was all my fault. Additional to the black plastic end caps, there was an additional shipping plug inside the radiator pushed back about an inch. It was black and I did not notice it. Also, it was not mentioned in the paperwork that came with the Spectra radiator.
Uggghhh!
The shop put a new thermostat in and same thing. They said they would continue to try and get it to burp and to call them back in an hour.
The shop put a new thermostat in and same thing. They said they would continue to try and get it to burp and to call them back in an hour.
I know, I thought the same thing. But when it clicks coolant gushes down for a second or two. So you a clunk around where the thermostat is and second or two later you hear another one. Between the two clunks the coolant drops fast. I am guessing it has something to do with the cool coolant hitting the supper hot thermostat. If I rev the engine the coolant up top gets hot and it stops doing it as much.