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I really think your issue is the battery or a bad battery cable connection. The only other thing I can think of that would cause it to crank slowly would a problem with the starter itself.
As far as the radiator goes, and Eric may not agree with this, and opinions are like a…., but I would not put another factory radiator back on the Pilot. There is a fairly well known issue with radiators used in the 06-10 Pilots and Ridgelines. I think it affects the MDX as well. Honda sourced radiators that used to different types of metals on the transmission line connections. If you see it leaking near the bottom and it may be coming out of one of the transmission lines, replace it immediately. If not, you may get coolant in your transmission and it would be toast after that.
I am not sure if it is the axle, bug what I can tell you for sure is, if you took it Acura or Honda they would tell you 100% it is the axle.
That being said, are you sure that something is not rubbing like the disk brake shield rubbing on the disk or something touching the axle?
I am not sure if it is the axle, bug what I can tell you for sure is, if you took it Acura or Honda they would tell you 100% it is the axle.
That being said, are you sure that something is not rubbing like the disk brake shield rubbing on the disk or something touching the axle?
Did all of the other codes come back? The 700 level errors are transmission related. I have seen transmission errors and changing of trans fluid has corrected it. Then again, I have seen where it does not.
As far as the other errors, just like the 700 errors, it would be good to know what comes back, especially since you have a hesitation now. The best thing you can do, in my opinion, is try to knock them out one by one and it may correct multiple errors in the process.
Did all of the other codes come back? The 700 level errors are transmission related. I have seen transmission errors and changing of trans fluid has corrected it. Then again, I have seen where it does not.
As far as the other errors, just like the 700 errors, it would be good to know what comes back, especially since you have a hesitation now. The best thing you can do, in my opinion, is try to knock them out one by one and it may correct multiple errors in the process.
[quote=”DirkOnCatoctin” post=92785]College Man thanks for the links to the excellent procedures re overheating problems. My “garage” consists of a patch of gravel under a large Maple tree next to a shed in my backyard. Once the rain stops my next step will be to bleed the system. Thanks again![/quote]
You are a true “shade tree mechanic” :cheer:
[quote=”DirkOnCatoctin” post=92785]College Man thanks for the links to the excellent procedures re overheating problems. My “garage” consists of a patch of gravel under a large Maple tree next to a shed in my backyard. Once the rain stops my next step will be to bleed the system. Thanks again![/quote]
You are a true “shade tree mechanic” :cheer:
The flywheel only goes on one way. There will be a white cut mark in the flywheel that you have to line up with the mark on the timing belt cover. Once you have the flywheel aligned you look in the inspection window. Either the rear or front cam should show that the it at mark. If not, then one of them is off. Then you rotate 360 degrees and the other side should be lined up.
I certainly hope that you have not damaged your engine. The fact that it is making a lot of noise is not a good sign. Especially if you have everything lined up properly. 🙁
The flywheel only goes on one way. There will be a white cut mark in the flywheel that you have to line up with the mark on the timing belt cover. Once you have the flywheel aligned you look in the inspection window. Either the rear or front cam should show that the it at mark. If not, then one of them is off. Then you rotate 360 degrees and the other side should be lined up.
I certainly hope that you have not damaged your engine. The fact that it is making a lot of noise is not a good sign. Especially if you have everything lined up properly. 🙁
[quote=”dlcraig1″ post=92724]I am actually using the OE Denso plugs. I haven’t pulled them yet but they have less than 5k on them. Haven’t checked EGR. Any tests for that? Does the DX model with a D15B7 have an EGR Valve?[/quote]
I would still look at them. Yes, you should have an EGR valve and I don’t know of any good test other than reading codes that will usually be tripped by a system that is gummed up. It could be so many things though.
- coil
- fuel pump/filter
- distributor
- plugs
- wires
- EGR
- bad gas
The list goes on and on. Eliminate the cheap easy things, and you may want to invest in an OBII scanner. They are not terribly expensive. This way you don’t have to deal with counting light flashes and get a readout on the fly when there is a problem.
[quote=”dlcraig1″ post=92724]I am actually using the OE Denso plugs. I haven’t pulled them yet but they have less than 5k on them. Haven’t checked EGR. Any tests for that? Does the DX model with a D15B7 have an EGR Valve?[/quote]
I would still look at them. Yes, you should have an EGR valve and I don’t know of any good test other than reading codes that will usually be tripped by a system that is gummed up. It could be so many things though.
- coil
- fuel pump/filter
- distributor
- plugs
- wires
- EGR
- bad gas
The list goes on and on. Eliminate the cheap easy things, and you may want to invest in an OBII scanner. They are not terribly expensive. This way you don’t have to deal with counting light flashes and get a readout on the fly when there is a problem.
Why did the mechanic think it was the distributor? It could also be fuel flow as well. Everything you listed a possibility and you will need to eliminate them.
