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Since there is no power at the relay, is that worth checking? Although, jumping the pins should have resulted in the compressor coming on if there is 12v there. I will jack it up and pull the wheel and check the voltage, but my guess is that there is no voltage there.
Just did a bit more troubleshooting. I pulled the relay for the clutch and jumpered pins 1 and 2, but the compressor clutch did not click on. Also the voltage to the relay is not happening either. The condenser relay clicks and shows voltage when the AC is on though. Looking for suggestions on what to check next.
I had a long running thread on the odyclub forums regarding my wife’s 2007 Odyssey. What we are experiencing is a bit different from your issue but I will let you know what I went through.
I purchased the van with Cooper tires that were in dire need of replacement. I decided to go with Goodyear Comfortreads. These tires are incredibly quiet but after having them installed the van had a shake at 65mph. It is not always there and not always at the same exact speed.
Took it to the tire shop and they rebalanced the tires. Each time the problem was exactly the same. Finally took it to the local Honda shop and paid for them to do a diagnostic on it. They told me the shake was due to a bad front engine and side engine mount. I replaced the mounts myself and the problem was exactly the same. So back to the Honda dealer. Paid them a second time to do a diagnostic and they told me it was the passenger side driveshaft. I then proceeded to replace this myself. Problem was still there. Went back to the Honda dealer and complained that I had paid them twice to figure it out but still had the same issue. They told me that the torque converter is most likely the cause. I complained again and another mechanic was asked to look at it. He came back and declared they were defective tires from Goodyear.
So back to the tire shop. They replaced all 4 tires (they were really great about this). But still the same problem. I then posted this on the odyclub forums and one of the members suggested a Road Force Balance. So I went back the dealer and paid them $120 for the balance. When I got it back, it was almost perfect. There was still a shake, but it was tolerable and slight. My wife then got a nail in one of the tires so back to the tire place. Under the road hazard warranty they replaced the tire. Now it is back to where it was before the Road Force Balance.
So, it is my opinion that these vans are not very tolerant when it comes to tire anomalies. Possibly the difference in the way they are manufactured or maybe it is a combination of things but I have a feeling if I put the factory Michelins on it, it would be fine. Since I posted this in those forums there has been a number of owners who complain of the same thing after replacing tires. I seen complaint from both 2nd and 3rd generation owners. Also, I contacted Honda Customer Service and they were useless. They told me that there were no reports of any systemic problem and that my local dealer would be best at dealing with it.
Now your case with the slower speeds could simply be that you have a bad tire, but I thought I would share my experiences with you.
One other point, one member said they had a shake and corrected it by using a torque wrench to tighten down the lug nuts instead of using an impact wrench. This certainly did not work for my case.
I had a long running thread on the odyclub forums regarding my wife’s 2007 Odyssey. What we are experiencing is a bit different from your issue but I will let you know what I went through.
I purchased the van with Cooper tires that were in dire need of replacement. I decided to go with Goodyear Comfortreads. These tires are incredibly quiet but after having them installed the van had a shake at 65mph. It is not always there and not always at the same exact speed.
Took it to the tire shop and they rebalanced the tires. Each time the problem was exactly the same. Finally took it to the local Honda shop and paid for them to do a diagnostic on it. They told me the shake was due to a bad front engine and side engine mount. I replaced the mounts myself and the problem was exactly the same. So back to the Honda dealer. Paid them a second time to do a diagnostic and they told me it was the passenger side driveshaft. I then proceeded to replace this myself. Problem was still there. Went back to the Honda dealer and complained that I had paid them twice to figure it out but still had the same issue. They told me that the torque converter is most likely the cause. I complained again and another mechanic was asked to look at it. He came back and declared they were defective tires from Goodyear.
So back to the tire shop. They replaced all 4 tires (they were really great about this). But still the same problem. I then posted this on the odyclub forums and one of the members suggested a Road Force Balance. So I went back the dealer and paid them $120 for the balance. When I got it back, it was almost perfect. There was still a shake, but it was tolerable and slight. My wife then got a nail in one of the tires so back to the tire place. Under the road hazard warranty they replaced the tire. Now it is back to where it was before the Road Force Balance.
So, it is my opinion that these vans are not very tolerant when it comes to tire anomalies. Possibly the difference in the way they are manufactured or maybe it is a combination of things but I have a feeling if I put the factory Michelins on it, it would be fine. Since I posted this in those forums there has been a number of owners who complain of the same thing after replacing tires. I seen complaint from both 2nd and 3rd generation owners. Also, I contacted Honda Customer Service and they were useless. They told me that there were no reports of any systemic problem and that my local dealer would be best at dealing with it.
Now your case with the slower speeds could simply be that you have a bad tire, but I thought I would share my experiences with you.
One other point, one member said they had a shake and corrected it by using a torque wrench to tighten down the lug nuts instead of using an impact wrench. This certainly did not work for my case.
To make matters worse, there may be no way to drain the fluid. My neighbors 2006 Tundra has no way to drain, it needs to be sucked out the fill I guess.
To make matters worse, there may be no way to drain the fluid. My neighbors 2006 Tundra has no way to drain, it needs to be sucked out the fill I guess.
Also check motor mounts, especially the one where the transmission mount is.
Also check motor mounts, especially the one where the transmission mount is.
If you are replacing the timing belt you will want to follow a service manual instructions for your vehicle. I will explain how to line everything up for the replacement.
If you are replacing the timing belt you will want to follow a service manual instructions for your vehicle. I will explain how to line everything up for the replacement.
Might need to clean the passage ways. There are videos out there on how to do this.
Might need to clean the passage ways. There are videos out there on how to do this.
That is good. I would be extra diligent though to make sure it may not be dripping down from one of those connectors.
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/69-2003-2008-pilot/32050-replace-radiator-insurance-100k.html
That is good. I would be extra diligent though to make sure it may not be dripping down from one of those connectors.
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/69-2003-2008-pilot/32050-replace-radiator-insurance-100k.html
I really think your issue is the battery or a bad battery cable connection. The only other thing I can think of that would cause it to crank slowly would a problem with the starter itself.
As far as the radiator goes, and Eric may not agree with this, and opinions are like a…., but I would not put another factory radiator back on the Pilot. There is a fairly well known issue with radiators used in the 06-10 Pilots and Ridgelines. I think it affects the MDX as well. Honda sourced radiators that used to different types of metals on the transmission line connections. If you see it leaking near the bottom and it may be coming out of one of the transmission lines, replace it immediately. If not, you may get coolant in your transmission and it would be toast after that.
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