Forum Replies Created
- Replies
I am big fan of Milwaukee fuel line, the sales are great plus there is trade in deals. from time to time. I have a old 3/8 impact I like, only 166 FT Lbs. going to upgrade to the 200 FT Lbs fuel model when funds permit.
Word of warning, the Milwaukee fuel 1/2 impact has two different kinds.
Pin type, Mode 2 600 FT lbs, Mode 1 350 FT Lbs. the pin will piss you off. However I like the 350 FT lbs setting BIG TIME, I can get close to 100 FT Lbs on lug nuts. (about 1/8 of a turn with the toque wrench.)
Friction ring type, Mode 2 700 FT lbs, Mode 1 100 FT Lbs.
I own both, great tools. I have a small compressor, so I have never bothered with air tools.
I went a little overboard. Picked up a Snap on PH3050 Air Hammer, with three bits, and a Milwaukee 1/2 impact. Good tools, The air hammer is my new best friend.
I know nothing about Hybrid tech, I am just going assume it’s like any other 100% gas car. The noise is 100% RPM dependent, not speed? if so you could have a bearing going bad on a idler or accessories.
Will the noise happen at stand still? if so easy test, remove the accessories belt and see if the notice is gone. WARING some car the water pump is on the accessories belt system, so DON’T run it long just a min or less. Otherwise it might overheat.
I think you should give the Jeep to the Mythbusters, and get back to the Fairmont build. However that is just me, I will never have anything good to say about Jeep GC, I hated my Jeep. I wish you good luck on the jeep.
can you get a decent car that has 6 months or better of MOT remaining for 300-400 (Pounds, i think. Canadian.)
If you could I would do that, you could spend 300+ and it might not pass MOT, then you have to spend more to get it on the road. Ganges know this, and some are scumbags, some are great. Take a look. good luck, it’s a gamble.
Yeah it’s a good tip, plus as a bonus you will become more familiar with the scan tool. I picked up a Modis to replace my aging Genisys. I feel like I am a monkey hammering at the Modis. The genisys was a simpler, plus had a Demo mode you can use for any model of car/truck.
If I ever get a car that needs nothing I will give the tip a shot. Everything I get is broken. Hell the Mx6 I have with a big rich running problem, and misfire.
The monkey that worked on this, didn’t install the fuel rail/injector housing right. Both plastic stand offs and one bolt (out of two.) plus one of the three injectors seals was missing. vacuum lines are taped/glued/shrink wrapped, as a repair. However I like puzzles, just sucks wait for parts and time.Maybe the coil should be unplugged and grounded, to keep it from frying. there is a video on here to show how to use a leak down, have a search for it. there is a TON of info in the videos here.
with a leak down, you put the Piston at TDC. hook it up to a air compressor. and listen for if the air is leaving the intake or exhaust.
[video]http://www.ericthecarguy.com/videos/83-videos/the-basics/888-how-to-perform-a-leak-down-test[/video]
can you borrow or buy a leak down tester? That will help you make sure it’s the valves at fault, for loss of compression.
Or you can just take the head off and have it checked out.
Is the timing belt new on the car? Now it’s time to find out how the valves got damaged. Brunt, spun a lower end bearing, or bent do to a failed timing belt.
before you get gung ho on the engine, redo the compression test on the bad cyl. However put a little oil in first before the test.
if you get compression the rings are bad, if you don’t the valves are a likely candidate. make sure you don’t have a spun bearing, otherwise it may just damage the valve again if you get the head done.
That is if the car is worth going this far. I don’t know how the cars are where you live. I can always pick up a running beater for $500-800 CAD. Better to eat the $300 then sink $500 plus in a car you can buy working for $800. (and need no major work.)
Good luck.
Thank you for the advice. However the open end on most cheap wrenches, are pissing me off. I am going to give the flank drive plus from Snap on a shot.
I am always working on a different car every month or so. Right now I have a 1997 Mazda MX6 with a MASSIVE rich running problem. I might not get paid for work i do, but saving time is worth it to me.
Just used my new SO ratchet, a lot better then crappy master-craft ratchet i used for so long. (The Sears in my neck of the woods, is a real PITA to have anything replaced.)
Good to know, I work on more cars then most DIY’er. The wrenches I have are good, but the open end is useless. I guess I will wait for SO to have a sale on wrenches.
At the moment I am trying to improve the biggest weak point of my tool box, the wrenches. (sockets are last, strangely.)
You can use a compression tester, just keep in mind it’s a fast check tool that can be incorrect.
Here is what i do, Pull spark plugs, check all cyl. Now you can get a good compression reading and have a bad head-gasket. Second check, pull the rad cap make sure it’s full and leave it off for the test, PUT the spark plugs back and use the tester on each put each plug back.
WARNING wear safety glasses, stand off to the side of the rad. Unless you want a coolant bath. This is a back yard trick i use, the leak down is the best but you need a compressor. Sometimes I am working in the boondocks, hauling my compressor/gen-set is not the best choice.