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Well today I attempted to change the seal but, I had no luck. I couldn’t get the axle/CV joint to come out of the front differential. I tired prying but. no luck. I just put everything back together and gave up.
Well today I attempted to change the seal but, I had no luck. I couldn’t get the axle/CV joint to come out of the front differential. I tired prying but. no luck. I just put everything back together and gave up.
Thanks so much for your response! I have been researching online how to do it and was having trouble finding information. The two questions I do have is, “will I have to replace the gasket on the back of that plate with the 6 bolts and as for popping the CV Axle out of the front differential, do I just pry it out and a small clip on the end of the shaft will surpress allowing it to come out”? Oh and for the putting in the new seal can I just use a small block of wood and tap it with a hammer evenly like I did when I replaced the rear axle seals? Thanks again! I am ordering the new seal now. Here is the one I am looking at… http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_oil-seal-national_20441869-p
Thanks so much for your response! I have been researching online how to do it and was having trouble finding information. The two questions I do have is, “will I have to replace the gasket on the back of that plate with the 6 bolts and as for popping the CV Axle out of the front differential, do I just pry it out and a small clip on the end of the shaft will surpress allowing it to come out”? Oh and for the putting in the new seal can I just use a small block of wood and tap it with a hammer evenly like I did when I replaced the rear axle seals? Thanks again! I am ordering the new seal now. Here is the one I am looking at… http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_oil-seal-national_20441869-p
Update!
I wanted to give everyone an update on the Ford Focus. I did finally repair it. I had to order a new upper intake manifold on eBay. I got a great deal for a used one for $54.99 with free shipping and it included the EGR Valve. I ordered the new upper intake gaskets, throttle body gasket and egr gasket. Installed the new intake and when reinstalling the new EGR tube I put anti-seize on it so when it breaks again it will hopefully be easier to loosen the nut. Lesson learned use the right tool and don’t rush things.Update!
I wanted to give everyone an update on the Ford Focus. I did finally repair it. I had to order a new upper intake manifold on eBay. I got a great deal for a used one for $54.99 with free shipping and it included the EGR Valve. I ordered the new upper intake gaskets, throttle body gasket and egr gasket. Installed the new intake and when reinstalling the new EGR tube I put anti-seize on it so when it breaks again it will hopefully be easier to loosen the nut. Lesson learned use the right tool and don’t rush things.I wanted to let you guys all know that my fuel gauge is fixed. It was bad resistor and float on the sending unit. The resistor was burned and had varnish and the float rod had a lot of play in it and wasn’t pushing the contacts against the resistor chip very well. I was a Carter brand. Seamed kind of cheap. I got a great deal on eBay for $129.99 with free shipping from a top rated seller for a new AC-Delco pump and sending unit. I installed it this past Sunday at my buddy’s garage. It wasn’t too bad to do but, is good to have the help of a buddy to lower the tank so you don’t break the nylon fuel lines. It is also recommended to purchase a GM quick disconnect fuel line tool to help unplug the plastic connections from the pump for the fuel lines. Harbor Freight sells them real cheap and work great. I broke the center quick connect end though but, it was just a breather line to the charcoal canister. I cut off the plastic quick connection off the nylon line and put a rubber hose with a hose clamp on both sides and seem to be holding fine. It’s not a fuel line and doesn’t have high pressure in it. I also had to use the 4 pin electrical connector that came with the new unit. The plug style on the new pump was way different than the one coming off the truck. It came with 4 butt wire connectors but I Soldered the wires instead and heat skunked them to keep them dry. My fuel gauge works perfect now and could be all in my head but I swear it runs better too. More pickup and smoother idle. I didn’t change the fuel filter because I just installed a new one in October. So I hope my infor help someone out. I also want to thank everyone that replied about the 4 pin wire connector on my other topic. It was very helpful! Have a good one everyone!
I wanted to let you guys all know that my fuel gauge is fixed. It was bad resistor and float on the sending unit. The resistor was burned and had varnish and the float rod had a lot of play in it and wasn’t pushing the contacts against the resistor chip very well. I was a Carter brand. Seamed kind of cheap. I got a great deal on eBay for $129.99 with free shipping from a top rated seller for a new AC-Delco pump and sending unit. I installed it this past Sunday at my buddy’s garage. It wasn’t too bad to do but, is good to have the help of a buddy to lower the tank so you don’t break the nylon fuel lines. It is also recommended to purchase a GM quick disconnect fuel line tool to help unplug the plastic connections from the pump for the fuel lines. Harbor Freight sells them real cheap and work great. I broke the center quick connect end though but, it was just a breather line to the charcoal canister. I cut off the plastic quick connection off the nylon line and put a rubber hose with a hose clamp on both sides and seem to be holding fine. It’s not a fuel line and doesn’t have high pressure in it. I also had to use the 4 pin electrical connector that came with the new unit. The plug style on the new pump was way different than the one coming off the truck. It came with 4 butt wire connectors but I Soldered the wires instead and heat skunked them to keep them dry. My fuel gauge works perfect now and could be all in my head but I swear it runs better too. More pickup and smoother idle. I didn’t change the fuel filter because I just installed a new one in October. So I hope my infor help someone out. I also want to thank everyone that replied about the 4 pin wire connector on my other topic. It was very helpful! Have a good one everyone!
I wanted to let you guys all know that my fuel gauge is fixed. It was bad resistor and float on the sending unit. The resistor was burned and had varnish and the float rod had a lot of play in it and wasn’t pushing the contacts against the resistor chip very well. I was a Carter brand. Seamed kind of cheap. I got a great deal on eBay for $129.99 with free shipping from a top rated seller for a new AC-Delco pump and sending unit. I installed it this past Sunday at my buddy’s garage. It wasn’t too bad to do but, is good to have the help of a buddy to lower the tank so you don’t break the nylon fuel lines. It is also recommended to purchase a GM quick disconnect fuel line tool to help unplug the plastic connections from the pump for the fuel lines. Harbor Freight sells them real cheap and work great. I broke the center quick connect end though but, it was just a breather line to the charcoal canister. I cut off the plastic quick connection off the nylon line and put a rubber hose with a hose clamp on both sides and seem to be holding fine. It’s not a fuel line and doesn’t have high pressure in it. I also had to use the 4 pin electrical connector that came with the new unit. The plug style on the new pump was way different than the one coming off the truck. It came with 4 butt wire connectors but I Soldered the wires instead and heat skunked them to keep them dry. My fuel gauge works perfect now and could be all in my head but I swear it runs better too. More pickup and smoother idle. I didn’t change the fuel filter because I just installed a new one in October. So I hope my infor help someone out. I also want to thank everyone that replied about the 4 pin wire connector. It was very helpful! Have a good one everyone!
I wanted to let you guys all know that my fuel gauge is fixed. It was bad resistor and float on the sending unit. The resistor was burned and had varnish and the float rod had a lot of play in it and wasn’t pushing the contacts against the resistor chip very well. I was a Carter brand. Seamed kind of cheap. I got a great deal on eBay for $129.99 with free shipping from a top rated seller for a new AC-Delco pump and sending unit. I installed it this past Sunday at my buddy’s garage. It wasn’t too bad to do but, is good to have the help of a buddy to lower the tank so you don’t break the nylon fuel lines. It is also recommended to purchase a GM quick disconnect fuel line tool to help unplug the plastic connections from the pump for the fuel lines. Harbor Freight sells them real cheap and work great. I broke the center quick connect end though but, it was just a breather line to the charcoal canister. I cut off the plastic quick connection off the nylon line and put a rubber hose with a hose clamp on both sides and seem to be holding fine. It’s not a fuel line and doesn’t have high pressure in it. I also had to use the 4 pin electrical connector that came with the new unit. The plug style on the new pump was way different than the one coming off the truck. It came with 4 butt wire connectors but I Soldered the wires instead and heat skunked them to keep them dry. My fuel gauge works perfect now and could be all in my head but I swear it runs better too. More pickup and smoother idle. I didn’t change the fuel filter because I just installed a new one in October. So I hope my infor help someone out. I also want to thank everyone that replied about the 4 pin wire connector. It was very helpful! Have a good one everyone!
Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately I created a bigger issue. I thought for whatever crazy reason to use the side of a pickle fork and attempted to tap the bolt loose with a hammer. Well you can see where this is going. It came loose but, I also cracked the entire EGR valve off the intake and broke a chunk of the aluminum intake off. So, I am currently waiting for a replacement upper intake manifold from eBay to come in. Found one with lower millage and the EGR valve included for $55 and free shipping. I know what I did was stupid but, I still must say that I dislike Fords a lot. Every time I work on this Focus for my Mother something major likes this happens to me. It just seems that there was not very good engineering involved with these cars. I will post an update soon. Thanks again.
Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately I created a bigger issue. I thought for whatever crazy reason to use the side of a pickle fork and attempted to tap the bolt loose with a hammer. Well you can see where this is going. It came loose but, I also cracked the entire EGR valve off the intake and broke a chunk of the aluminum intake off. So, I am currently waiting for a replacement upper intake manifold from eBay to come in. Found one with lower millage and the EGR valve included for $55 and free shipping. I know what I did was stupid but, I still must say that I dislike Fords a lot. Every time I work on this Focus for my Mother something major likes this happens to me. It just seems that there was not very good engineering involved with these cars. I will post an update soon. Thanks again.
Thanks everyone who replied to my post. I am going to lookin into an AC-Delco or Delphi Sending unit and fuel pump. I don’t think it will be too bad to chnge on the two door model. Im going to try that. Thanks again guys!
Thanks everyone who replied to my post. I am going to lookin into an AC-Delco or Delphi Sending unit and fuel pump. I don’t think it will be too bad to chnge on the two door model. Im going to try that. Thanks again guys!
Hey Eric! I wanted to update you and let you know that I sawpped out my rear brake shoes with a pair of ceramics from Napa. The best ones they sell. I cleaned everything up, adjusted the new shoes and installed new springs too even though the ones on there still looked good. I figured why not they where cheap enough. I have put about 100 miles on my Blazer since and have done a lot of stopping and everything is great! No more grabbing or skidding of the rear wheels. Normally by now the issue would have came right back after a couple days of driving. Keeping my fingers crossed. I will never buy brake shoes or pads from PepBoys again thats for darn sure! I am always beena Napa guy before but I was being cheap and look wear it got me. I have great luck with Napa SKF wheel bearings too. Every hub I have replace on my GM’s from Napa have never had to be replaced again. AutoZone, Advance, Pepboys and Auto Supermarket wheel hub bearings go bad in less than a year. Thanks again Eric and everyone else who replied to my issue. Thanks!!!!!!
