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Well.. the blazer fuel gauge is fixed! I replaced the resister part of the sending unit in the gas tank and the fuel gauge is working again. Hopefully this one last longer than the last one. Didn’t think I would be back in the tank so soon again. Thanks for all your input.
Thank you for your input! I was wondering if anyone out there could suggest maybe a brand of fuel pump/sending unit that won’t develop this issue again or at least so quickly? I watched the YouTube video on how to modify the sending unit to reduce the slop in the float meeting the resistor but, I would like to see if someone could suggest an alternative to correcting this very, very common issue? I would prefer to stick with AC-Delco but, it clearly didn’t hold up not even 6 months. Someone out there must have a solution to this issue. Why do GM trucks and SUV go through so many fuel pump sending units??? A parts guy at my local GM dealership said to just “deal with it and calculate my millage”. He claimed to replace 3 Sending Unit’s in his 2004 GM SUV and the problem keeps coming back! This is very unacceptable in my opinion. Why will GM not release a recall or at least “suggest” an alternative solution to create a more permanent fix? I guess acknowledging the issue would cost the GM a ton of money but, it is costing their consumers! GM needs to man up and accept this issue and at lease provide a real solution besides replace the pump and sending unit.
Is there a better aftermarket solution?
My idea of the cause of this common failure is due to not having baffles in the tank to reduce the amount of slop in the fuel. This causes excessive tugging on the float making the connecting rod to the float lose its tight contact to the resistor. Thoughts?
Thank you for your input! I was wondering if anyone out there could suggest maybe a brand of fuel pump/sending unit that won’t develop this issue again or at least so quickly? I watched the YouTube video on how to modify the sending unit to reduce the slop in the float meeting the resistor but, I would like to see if someone could suggest an alternative to correcting this very, very common issue? I would prefer to stick with AC-Delco but, it clearly didn’t hold up not even 6 months. Someone out there must have a solution to this issue. Why do GM trucks and SUV go through so many fuel pump sending units??? A parts guy at my local GM dealership said to just “deal with it and calculate my millage”. He claimed to replace 3 Sending Unit’s in his 2004 GM SUV and the problem keeps coming back! This is very unacceptable in my opinion. Why will GM not release a recall or at least “suggest” an alternative solution to create a more permanent fix? I guess acknowledging the issue would cost the GM a ton of money but, it is costing their consumers! GM needs to man up and accept this issue and at lease provide a real solution besides replace the pump and sending unit.
Is there a better aftermarket solution?
My idea of the cause of this common failure is due to not having baffles in the tank to reduce the amount of slop in the fuel. This causes excessive tugging on the float making the connecting rod to the float lose its tight contact to the resistor. Thoughts?
Problem solved! The wire harness that runs from the ECM down the right side on the frame to pre-cat and post car O2 sensors got burned against the hot exhaust. spliced and soldered in new wires into the effected area of the hardness. All is well, O2 sensor responding properly now and no more check engine codes. Completed drive cycle and still working great. Thanks everyone for info
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Problem solved! The wire harness that runs from the ECM down the right side on the frame to pre-cat and post car O2 sensors got burned against the hot exhaust. spliced and soldered in new wires into the effected area of the hardness. All is well, O2 sensor responding properly now and no more check engine codes. Completed drive cycle and still working great. Thanks everyone for info
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Thanks for the info! I check the fuses and they look fine. I don’t have the Blazer home with me right now so I can’t go any further with it today. I installed “Denso” brand O2 sensors which is the same as was in there. Most of the parts are Denso unlike my 97 Blazer where everthing is AC-Delco. Probably the reson I am having these problems. As far as I know my 97 Blazer has all the orginal O2 Sensors with 140k.
So whtat Do I need to do to ckeck for voltage on the wires?
Thanks for the info! I check the fuses and they look fine. I don’t have the Blazer home with me right now so I can’t go any further with it today. I installed “Denso” brand O2 sensors which is the same as was in there. Most of the parts are Denso unlike my 97 Blazer where everthing is AC-Delco. Probably the reson I am having these problems. As far as I know my 97 Blazer has all the orginal O2 Sensors with 140k.
So whtat Do I need to do to ckeck for voltage on the wires?
I completed the sealed beam headlight and grill style over to the composite style on my 1997 2-Door Chevy Blazer. It wasn’t bad. You have to first remove the grill with the four 7mm screws that mount it on the top of the grill and remove the two 7mm screws above and below the Chevy symbol in the middle of the grill. The bottom of the frill there are 4 mettle clips that are springing that hold the grill onto the main support. Those clips pull off with the grill. Once the screws are removed pull straight back carefully and the grill will come off. Be careful though because the side marker lights are still twisted into the yellow side marker lenses attached to the grill. Those just twist out. Once the grill is removed you then will need a socket wrench with a long extension and a 10mm socket to remove the 4 mounting screws that hold the sealed beam brackets to the core support. They are recessed back above and below the headlight on al 4 corners. Save the screws. Now you can carefully pull the entire sealed beam and bracket out and remove the plug on the back. It just pulls off. Repeat these steps for each side. The next part is up to you how you want to attach the new 9006 and 9005 socket wire pigtails to the main harness. I just the old sealed beam connectors off. I stripped the outer coating off all the wires about an inch up on the wires on the two pigtails and the wires coming off the truck. For the passenger side you will have a green, tan and a black wire. The green wire is for High beam positive, tan is for low beam positive and the black is the negative/ground wire. I soldiered the tan wire to the positive of the 9006 light pigtail connector (low beam), the green wire to the positive of the 9005 light pigtail connector (high beam) and the black wire I twisted and combined the negative to both pigtails together and soldiered them. I also put head shrink over the soldered connection. The heat shrink must be slid onto the wires before you soldier. The driver side was a little different but same concept. The drive side has 5 wires. Two green and two tan wires and one blue. Strip about an inch up on the pigtails wires and the wires coming off the truck after cutting the main sealed beam connector off. Twist together the two greens to the positive 9005 pigtail wire and soldier. Twist together the two tans to the positive wire of the 9006 pigtail wire. Now twist together the negative wires from both the 9006 and 9005 wire and connect them and soldier them to the blue. This will have the low beam 9006 on the top of your headlight assembly and the high beam 9006 on the bottom. Once everything is soldiered and heat shrunk I prefer to tape all my new connections up with electrical tape to prevent rubbing or damage to the new wires. Two install the new light assemblies there will need three of the four screws on the driver and passenger side to mount the lights. You will also need two on each side, special mettle clips that had treads tapped into them to clip on the two inner/middle holes for the screws to go into to support to mount the lights. I got lucky because I had two on the used headlights I was able to remove and reuse and my buddy had two lying in his tool box. Hold the light assembly up to the mounting holes you can see where the screw clips must be clipped to on the core support. On the driver side there should be one on the top inner side of the assembly bracket, one on the inner side about in the middle or half way down the light bracket. The outer is on the top right side of the light assembly mounting bracket near the finder. The outer one has threads already in the core support for the mounting screws so you will only need the slips on the inner holes. The passenger is the same just flipped around. Once you are in there doing this you will discover quickly that this core support was designed to take these headlights as well as the sealed beams. Test your lights, low and high beams before putting everything back together. Make sure your bulbs are all good because it looks like the only way to change them is to take then entire grill off and un-mount the lights again to access the back of the assemblies to screw in new lights. Install the side maker light sockets into the new light assembly where the yellow lens is. The twist back in just like on the old grill setup. Once everything is put together, swap any necessary hardware or clips from the old sealed beam style grill to the new composite style plastic grill. Slide the new grill on and push the bottom into place to seal the spring clips on the bottom and reinstall your 7mm screws in reverse of the removal. Clean up your tools and wipe any finger prints off the grill and lights then stand back and admire your work. With a buddy the whole project takes about an hour to do everything.
I completed the sealed beam headlight and grill style over to the composite style on my 1997 2-Door Chevy Blazer. It wasn’t bad. You have to first remove the grill with the four 7mm screws that mount it on the top of the grill and remove the two 7mm screws above and below the Chevy symbol in the middle of the grill. The bottom of the frill there are 4 mettle clips that are springing that hold the grill onto the main support. Those clips pull off with the grill. Once the screws are removed pull straight back carefully and the grill will come off. Be careful though because the side marker lights are still twisted into the yellow side marker lenses attached to the grill. Those just twist out. Once the grill is removed you then will need a socket wrench with a long extension and a 10mm socket to remove the 4 mounting screws that hold the sealed beam brackets to the core support. They are recessed back above and below the headlight on al 4 corners. Save the screws. Now you can carefully pull the entire sealed beam and bracket out and remove the plug on the back. It just pulls off. Repeat these steps for each side. The next part is up to you how you want to attach the new 9006 and 9005 socket wire pigtails to the main harness. I just the old sealed beam connectors off. I stripped the outer coating off all the wires about an inch up on the wires on the two pigtails and the wires coming off the truck. For the passenger side you will have a green, tan and a black wire. The green wire is for High beam positive, tan is for low beam positive and the black is the negative/ground wire. I soldiered the tan wire to the positive of the 9006 light pigtail connector (low beam), the green wire to the positive of the 9005 light pigtail connector (high beam) and the black wire I twisted and combined the negative to both pigtails together and soldiered them. I also put head shrink over the soldered connection. The heat shrink must be slid onto the wires before you soldier. The driver side was a little different but same concept. The drive side has 5 wires. Two green and two tan wires and one blue. Strip about an inch up on the pigtails wires and the wires coming off the truck after cutting the main sealed beam connector off. Twist together the two greens to the positive 9005 pigtail wire and soldier. Twist together the two tans to the positive wire of the 9006 pigtail wire. Now twist together the negative wires from both the 9006 and 9005 wire and connect them and soldier them to the blue. This will have the low beam 9006 on the top of your headlight assembly and the high beam 9006 on the bottom. Once everything is soldiered and heat shrunk I prefer to tape all my new connections up with electrical tape to prevent rubbing or damage to the new wires. Two install the new light assemblies there will need three of the four screws on the driver and passenger side to mount the lights. You will also need two on each side, special mettle clips that had treads tapped into them to clip on the two inner/middle holes for the screws to go into to support to mount the lights. I got lucky because I had two on the used headlights I was able to remove and reuse and my buddy had two lying in his tool box. Hold the light assembly up to the mounting holes you can see where the screw clips must be clipped to on the core support. On the driver side there should be one on the top inner side of the assembly bracket, one on the inner side about in the middle or half way down the light bracket. The outer is on the top right side of the light assembly mounting bracket near the finder. The outer one has threads already in the core support for the mounting screws so you will only need the slips on the inner holes. The passenger is the same just flipped around. Once you are in there doing this you will discover quickly that this core support was designed to take these headlights as well as the sealed beams. Test your lights, low and high beams before putting everything back together. Make sure your bulbs are all good because it looks like the only way to change them is to take then entire grill off and un-mount the lights again to access the back of the assemblies to screw in new lights. Install the side maker light sockets into the new light assembly where the yellow lens is. The twist back in just like on the old grill setup. Once everything is put together, swap any necessary hardware or clips from the old sealed beam style grill to the new composite style plastic grill. Slide the new grill on and push the bottom into place to seal the spring clips on the bottom and reinstall your 7mm screws in reverse of the removal. Clean up your tools and wipe any finger prints off the grill and lights then stand back and admire your work. With a buddy the whole project takes about an hour to do everything.
Brake 1 – The wheel cylinders habe both been replace, Brake 2 – the dront ABS sensors that are attached to the dust sheilds, then entire dust sheild and ABS sensors have been replaced on front. Dorman makes an aftermarket part for this. Brake 3 – drums are new but feel out of round now because of all these issues. Feels like too much stopping n rear and over heating drums now I think they are out of shape again. I am kind of thinking the backing plates. I did pry some on them when I first service the brakes for this issue when it stated. The drum was really stuck on. they look fine, they are clean and I used a grinder to smooth out any grooves that could be causing the shoes to get hung up. I applied some anti-seize to the areas thare are raised to where the shoes meet up to the backing plate. Didn’t help my issue either. I have no ABS lights on and no codes. This is a very very base modle. I don’t even know where the ABS sensor is for the back wheels. I aussume on the transmission or trasfercase someonewhere because there are no sensors anywhere on the rear end. How hard is it to comvert to DISC brakes? haha
Brake 1 – The wheel cylinders habe both been replace, Brake 2 – the dront ABS sensors that are attached to the dust sheilds, then entire dust sheild and ABS sensors have been replaced on front. Dorman makes an aftermarket part for this. Brake 3 – drums are new but feel out of round now because of all these issues. Feels like too much stopping n rear and over heating drums now I think they are out of shape again. I am kind of thinking the backing plates. I did pry some on them when I first service the brakes for this issue when it stated. The drum was really stuck on. they look fine, they are clean and I used a grinder to smooth out any grooves that could be causing the shoes to get hung up. I applied some anti-seize to the areas thare are raised to where the shoes meet up to the backing plate. Didn’t help my issue either. I have no ABS lights on and no codes. This is a very very base modle. I don’t even know where the ABS sensor is for the back wheels. I aussume on the transmission or trasfercase someonewhere because there are no sensors anywhere on the rear end. How hard is it to comvert to DISC brakes? haha
this is an older base modle Blazer. I am unsure of any special sensors. I know when I changed the brake lines there wasn’t any valves in them, just brake lines all the way back form the factory. The shoes and hardare are installed proerly. I checked and re-checked and have had two mechanics check. Everything is new including the drums. The issue occured with the old brakes too before I changed everything out. I cannot take a video at the moment but, I attached a picute of my setup from a source online. This all happened around the time I had a real seal leak that I fixed and even after replacing practily everything regarding the drum brakes this still keeps happening.
this is an older base modle Blazer. I am unsure of any special sensors. I know when I changed the brake lines there wasn’t any valves in them, just brake lines all the way back form the factory. The shoes and hardare are installed proerly. I checked and re-checked and have had two mechanics check. Everything is new including the drums. The issue occured with the old brakes too before I changed everything out. I cannot take a video at the moment but, I attached a picute of my setup from a source online. This all happened around the time I had a real seal leak that I fixed and even after replacing practily everything regarding the drum brakes this still keeps happening.
Well the transmission in the Blazer is fixed. Just like the link “college man” replied with, it was the Sun Gear that had failed. The one from GM is made from softer steel and has a tendency of stripping the teeth off. The revised Sun Gear is made of a harden steel to correct this very common issue. It causes the loss off reverse. The delayed shift into second from a pull out I believe was related but, the transmission shop that did the rebuild was very vague. They mentioned that the second and fourth gear was also gone but, didn’t get into details on if this was all related to the Sun Gear or drive pack or a clutch issues. All I know is it’s fixed and shifts better than it ever did. The power gain is awesome, drives like a new truck.
As for the transfer case not fully disengaging completely from 4-wheel drive and the noises it was making along with the over filled fluid, they claimed it needed the vacuum actuator and a vacuum switch on top of the transfer case. Originally they thought it needed a rebuild too because of how the transmission fluid was so over filled in the transfer case possibly caused from a bad seal inside the transfer case allowing the transmission to leak it’s fluid into the transfer case. I am assuming that wasn’t the case because the 4-wheel drive is working fine now and they never mentioned anything further about the seal nor having to rebuild the transfer case. I still need to ask them if the changed the fluid in the transfer case.
The only snag we ran into is that the reverse lights now are not working. I assume a faulty natural start switch but, I am going to request they look at it since we just paid them all this money. They had it ready in one business day. Picked it up the next day after we dropped it off. The rebuild, 4-wheel drive actuator and the vacuum switch came to $2,278. I feel Money well spent to not have to deal with it myself. Also worth it because this Blazer was a Florida truck for a long period of time and has no rust. Even the frame, fuel lines and brakes lines look new. In addition I would not recommend getting a used transmission unless you know it has already been rebuild with the revised Sun Gear made of harden steel. Thanks “College Guy” for the reply, you where dead on.
Well the transmission in the Blazer is fixed. Just like the link “college man” replied with, it was the Sun Gear that had failed. The one from GM is made from softer steel and has a tendency of stripping the teeth off. The revised Sun Gear is made of a harden steel to correct this very common issue. It causes the loss off reverse. The delayed shift into second from a pull out I believe was related but, the transmission shop that did the rebuild was very vague. They mentioned that the second and fourth gear was also gone but, didn’t get into details on if this was all related to the Sun Gear or drive pack or a clutch issues. All I know is it’s fixed and shifts better than it ever did. The power gain is awesome, drives like a new truck.
As for the transfer case not fully disengaging completely from 4-wheel drive and the noises it was making along with the over filled fluid, they claimed it needed the vacuum actuator and a vacuum switch on top of the transfer case. Originally they thought it needed a rebuild too because of how the transmission fluid was so over filled in the transfer case possibly caused from a bad seal inside the transfer case allowing the transmission to leak it’s fluid into the transfer case. I am assuming that wasn’t the case because the 4-wheel drive is working fine now and they never mentioned anything further about the seal nor having to rebuild the transfer case. I still need to ask them if the changed the fluid in the transfer case.
The only snag we ran into is that the reverse lights now are not working. I assume a faulty natural start switch but, I am going to request they look at it since we just paid them all this money. They had it ready in one business day. Picked it up the next day after we dropped it off. The rebuild, 4-wheel drive actuator and the vacuum switch came to $2,278. I feel Money well spent to not have to deal with it myself. Also worth it because this Blazer was a Florida truck for a long period of time and has no rust. Even the frame, fuel lines and brakes lines look new. In addition I would not recommend getting a used transmission unless you know it has already been rebuild with the revised Sun Gear made of harden steel. Thanks “College Guy” for the reply, you where dead on.
