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I wanted to update everyone. I finally got the axle out. I used an old pickle fork for separating ball joints and got it to pop right out of the diff. I installed a new oil seal and no more leaks. I am going to replace the CV axle when I do the ball joints next week because the boot won’t stay on properly and it is throwing grease everywhere. I figured it would be easier to replace the entire axle instead of messing with the boot. Not that expensive and it has 142k on it. Thanks got all the great advice everyone! If I get the energy I may make a video on youtube of the axle replacement and ball joint’s replacement.
I wanted to update everyone. I finally got the axle out. I used an old pickle fork for separating ball joints and got it to pop right out of the diff. I installed a new oil seal and no more leaks. I am going to replace the CV axle when I do the ball joints next week because the boot won’t stay on properly and it is throwing grease everywhere. I figured it would be easier to replace the entire axle instead of messing with the boot. Not that expensive and it has 142k on it. Thanks got all the great advice everyone! If I get the energy I may make a video on youtube of the axle replacement and ball joint’s replacement.
Good morning and thank you for all you good information! My Blazer is a very, very base model. The only feature it has is the 4-Wheel drive option. No towing add-on’s. I get a popping/clunk sound from the middle of the truck when I go over big enough road bumps. I think the small links on the each side of the torsion bar brace that connect it to the frame have worn bushings. I also get more than average popping/movement on the rear driver side wheel when I tug on it on when jacked off the ground. Possible wheel bearing issue inside the rear axle and or the shaft/spindle worn? I replaced the rear seals but never the bearings because I didn’t have a bearing puller yet. As for the front end no springs, just torsion bars with shock absorbers. It suspension the be best described would be to not have much give (stiff) and doesn’t absorb the impact. My brothers 2002 LS 4-door has more of a softer, bounce smoother ride. Don’t feel much road at all. The interior in mine is all plastic and males noise when I hit bumps because of the hard impact. Thank again!
Good morning and thank you for all you good information! My Blazer is a very, very base model. The only feature it has is the 4-Wheel drive option. No towing add-on’s. I get a popping/clunk sound from the middle of the truck when I go over big enough road bumps. I think the small links on the each side of the torsion bar brace that connect it to the frame have worn bushings. I also get more than average popping/movement on the rear driver side wheel when I tug on it on when jacked off the ground. Possible wheel bearing issue inside the rear axle and or the shaft/spindle worn? I replaced the rear seals but never the bearings because I didn’t have a bearing puller yet. As for the front end no springs, just torsion bars with shock absorbers. It suspension the be best described would be to not have much give (stiff) and doesn’t absorb the impact. My brothers 2002 LS 4-door has more of a softer, bounce smoother ride. Don’t feel much road at all. The interior in mine is all plastic and males noise when I hit bumps because of the hard impact. Thank again!
I wanted to update everyone on the blower motor noise issue in my 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL. On the second trip to the dealership I made the service writer sit in the car with me and listen to the noise. He hear it FINALLY and had the technician replace the blower motor under Nisan’s Manufacturers Warranty. Don’t get me wrong, the guys at Nissan where all very nice but, they seem over worked and brainwashed to try and do everything possible to not repair things under warranty. I don’t understand this reasoning. I base my future vehicle purchase choices completely based upon dealership repair experience and reliability. Dealerships need to realize they are not just representing them selves but the entire brand name they sell. Lets hope that IF I require additional dealership service or repairs my next experience will be better. I have researched other Nissan Dealerships that are further away from my house and the reviews sound similar to my experience. I hope this isn’t a Nissan thing. Thanks for reading everyone.
I wanted to update everyone on the blower motor noise issue in my 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL. On the second trip to the dealership I made the service writer sit in the car with me and listen to the noise. He hear it FINALLY and had the technician replace the blower motor under Nisan’s Manufacturers Warranty. Don’t get me wrong, the guys at Nissan where all very nice but, they seem over worked and brainwashed to try and do everything possible to not repair things under warranty. I don’t understand this reasoning. I base my future vehicle purchase choices completely based upon dealership repair experience and reliability. Dealerships need to realize they are not just representing them selves but the entire brand name they sell. Lets hope that IF I require additional dealership service or repairs my next experience will be better. I have researched other Nissan Dealerships that are further away from my house and the reviews sound similar to my experience. I hope this isn’t a Nissan thing. Thanks for reading everyone.
I agree, it sounds like they attempted to lube the blower motor bearing. I called the dealer back and they didn’t deny it. The gave me an excuse that the motor must be bad enough for them to send it back to Nissan and not get charged. I’m in business to make money and I completely understand preventing unnecessary charges but, there is a point when taking care of my customers is more important than an $100 part that probably cost only a few dollars to manufacture. They think they can pull one over on me when I work on cars on the side. I have replaced enough blower motors to know there is an issue. I guess I don’t understand the politics of a dealership and processes. It’s a shame that customers are at the mercy of the dealership when their vehicle is under the branded warranty. This isn’t just Nissan, I have dealt with this sort of issue before with GM. Thankfully the one GM dealership I dealt with did everything to take care of me when I bought my car there, even if they had to comp the cost of the part and labor. You don’t find that type of service anymore and when you do stick with that dealership.
Maybe Eric would have some in-site on this? He used to work for a dealership.
I agree, it sounds like they attempted to lube the blower motor bearing. I called the dealer back and they didn’t deny it. The gave me an excuse that the motor must be bad enough for them to send it back to Nissan and not get charged. I’m in business to make money and I completely understand preventing unnecessary charges but, there is a point when taking care of my customers is more important than an $100 part that probably cost only a few dollars to manufacture. They think they can pull one over on me when I work on cars on the side. I have replaced enough blower motors to know there is an issue. I guess I don’t understand the politics of a dealership and processes. It’s a shame that customers are at the mercy of the dealership when their vehicle is under the branded warranty. This isn’t just Nissan, I have dealt with this sort of issue before with GM. Thankfully the one GM dealership I dealt with did everything to take care of me when I bought my car there, even if they had to comp the cost of the part and labor. You don’t find that type of service anymore and when you do stick with that dealership.
Maybe Eric would have some in-site on this? He used to work for a dealership.
Thanks Eric and everyone else that replied. I have been driving my Altima for a month and 10 days now. I have gotten used to the CVT and don’t mind it now. The feelings of hesitation or what most CVT owners refer to the rubber band effect is normal from everything I have read. I figured out how to pull the dipstick (special clip on end) and the fluid looks clean and is at the right level. The warmer it is out and the closer to operating temp, the transmission seems to perform better and not rev has high when accelerating. This is probably normal and like regular transmissions that hold the overdrive out based on fluid temperature. I will say the CVT is very inconsistent on drivability. Sometimes it seems I can really take off and others I feel like it doesn’t have much power. Not as responsive as the kick down of the typical transmission. ON the highway it drives great and gets up to speed with no issues but, passing takes more effort. That could be the result of a 4 cylinder though. The fuel economy is great and make up for the oddness of the CVT handling. If maintained and driven respectfully, does anyone know the typical life expectance of the CVT compared to a traditional transmission? How dependable is the Nissan Altima 2.5L engine from 2011? Do I need to worry about the Catalytic Converter issue that was talked about in the 2006 model when the inside would burn up causing chucks to be sucked into the engine and ruining it? Thanks!
Thanks Eric and everyone else that replied. I have been driving my Altima for a month and 10 days now. I have gotten used to the CVT and don’t mind it now. The feelings of hesitation or what most CVT owners refer to the rubber band effect is normal from everything I have read. I figured out how to pull the dipstick (special clip on end) and the fluid looks clean and is at the right level. The warmer it is out and the closer to operating temp, the transmission seems to perform better and not rev has high when accelerating. This is probably normal and like regular transmissions that hold the overdrive out based on fluid temperature. I will say the CVT is very inconsistent on drivability. Sometimes it seems I can really take off and others I feel like it doesn’t have much power. Not as responsive as the kick down of the typical transmission. ON the highway it drives great and gets up to speed with no issues but, passing takes more effort. That could be the result of a 4 cylinder though. The fuel economy is great and make up for the oddness of the CVT handling. If maintained and driven respectfully, does anyone know the typical life expectance of the CVT compared to a traditional transmission? How dependable is the Nissan Altima 2.5L engine from 2011? Do I need to worry about the Catalytic Converter issue that was talked about in the 2006 model when the inside would burn up causing chucks to be sucked into the engine and ruining it? Thanks!
Thank you! Yeah I think what I am feeling is normal but, I am paranoid since I just bought it used. There is a warranty it just would suck to have to have a transmission rebuild already. Someone else mentioned taking another Altima for a test drive as a dealer to see how it feels in comparison. I may try and stop at Nissan this week and have them look at it. I bought it from a GM dealership and the salesman was an idiot and knew nothing about it. Tried telling me it took dexcool and it has a GM certified warranty 12 month and at signing it suddenly had no warranty and had to take it to Nissan for any repairs for the remainder of the manufacturer warranty. So I am going to drive it some more and obtain the service records from Nissan. But like I said I think what I am feeling is normal. Just gets confused on what gear. When I drive it in manual it’s fine. Thanks again!
Thank you! Yeah I think what I am feeling is normal but, I am paranoid since I just bought it used. There is a warranty it just would suck to have to have a transmission rebuild already. Someone else mentioned taking another Altima for a test drive as a dealer to see how it feels in comparison. I may try and stop at Nissan this week and have them look at it. I bought it from a GM dealership and the salesman was an idiot and knew nothing about it. Tried telling me it took dexcool and it has a GM certified warranty 12 month and at signing it suddenly had no warranty and had to take it to Nissan for any repairs for the remainder of the manufacturer warranty. So I am going to drive it some more and obtain the service records from Nissan. But like I said I think what I am feeling is normal. Just gets confused on what gear. When I drive it in manual it’s fine. Thanks again!
I am following up with my Blazer fuel gauge fix. I have driven about 200 miles and the fuel gauge is still working. It was defiantly the sending unit that was to blame. Here is my video attached taking about what I did and and I also attached a video regarding an actual fix for this very common problem of the sending unit resistor loosing good contact with the float causing the gauge not to read properly. My videos are the fist two then the last and third video is a fix that was created to fix this very expensive issue! Enjoy! I am so excited about finding this and I really hope is saves someone out there a lot of money!!!
I am following up with my Blazer fuel gauge fix. I have driven about 200 miles and the fuel gauge is still working. It was defiantly the sending unit that was to blame. Here is my video attached taking about what I did and and I also attached a video regarding an actual fix for this very common problem of the sending unit resistor loosing good contact with the float causing the gauge not to read properly. My videos are the fist two then the last and third video is a fix that was created to fix this very expensive issue! Enjoy! I am so excited about finding this and I really hope is saves someone out there a lot of money!!!