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Yeah, The way I compressed them was pretty stupid! I am always preaching to others about safety and here I go and do something really dangerous.
On a side note, the noise is still there after replacing the torsion bar cross member support bushing links that you can see in the above video. It really occurs when it rains and I’m driving. Every little bump sounds like I’m loosing something under the truck. I’m thinking too a lot of that tar like grease has fallen out of them. Would you have any suggestions of what kinda and where to get some replacement keys. Ones that aren’t too pricey and ones that will help even if there is wear on the end of the torsion bar hex it’s self? Should I replace new tar-like grease on the new ones I install? I can’t find a cheap unloader tool. The cheapest I can find is well over $100 and non of the local auto parts stock one or rent one out. Thanks again. I am 100% sure my noise is in the key area. I also get the clunk if the tuck shifts the the side when the other side goes over like a hump.
Hello,
I wanted to post an update. For a long while now the crank shaft position sensor has been throwing a P0336 Voltage range code. This would cause a intermittent check engine light, more so on hot days and also would cause the tachometer to just stop reading when driving down the road when the code would pop up. When I had to pull the harmonic balance to replace this sensor I notice a lot of oil laying in the engine mount cradle so I went a head and replaced the seal on the crank shaft before installing the sensor and the engine mount was shot so did that too. I also replaced the Neutral Saftey switch thinking that may have something to do with the no crank in start position too. No change. I have narrowed it down to being when its hot outside and if you put the windows down inside the car it will eventually after the interior cools down allow the car to crank and start right up. I replaced the ignition key cylinder about a year or more ago and that seemed to make the issue go away until recently. Its an after market one so the security light has been flashing ever since. I guess from what I read the only way to get the security light off is to have the passlock reset by GM. Also wanted to point out again the ignition switch was also replace probably 3 years ago for other issues.
Because this happens so intermittently and it’s my Dads car that he drives, I never have the tools or the opportunity to trouble shoot this issue when it’s actually occurring. I guess I was hoping someone out there has had this same issue and would be like, “Oh yeah, I had this same issue and this is what I did!” Haha. I know electrical is so hard to diagnose through and online forum.
I am quickly loosing interest in this car. two years ago the overdrive shaft splines so no over drive now, the rocker panels that have already when replaced have rotted back through again. If my dad had money I would talk him into getting another car non-GM. haha
Thanks again for reading my POST!
Hello,
I wanted to post an update. For a long while now the crank shaft position sensor has been throwing a P0336 Voltage range code. This would cause a intermittent check engine light, more so on hot days and also would cause the tachometer to just stop reading when driving down the road when the code would pop up. When I had to pull the harmonic balance to replace this sensor I notice a lot of oil laying in the engine mount cradle so I went a head and replaced the seal on the crank shaft before installing the sensor and the engine mount was shot so did that too. I also replaced the Neutral Saftey switch thinking that may have something to do with the no crank in start position too. No change. I have narrowed it down to being when its hot outside and if you put the windows down inside the car it will eventually after the interior cools down allow the car to crank and start right up. I replaced the ignition key cylinder about a year or more ago and that seemed to make the issue go away until recently. Its an after market one so the security light has been flashing ever since. I guess from what I read the only way to get the security light off is to have the passlock reset by GM. Also wanted to point out again the ignition switch was also replace probably 3 years ago for other issues.
Because this happens so intermittently and it’s my Dads car that he drives, I never have the tools or the opportunity to trouble shoot this issue when it’s actually occurring. I guess I was hoping someone out there has had this same issue and would be like, “Oh yeah, I had this same issue and this is what I did!” Haha. I know electrical is so hard to diagnose through and online forum.
I am quickly loosing interest in this car. two years ago the overdrive shaft splines so no over drive now, the rocker panels that have already when replaced have rotted back through again. If my dad had money I would talk him into getting another car non-GM. haha
Thanks again for reading my POST!
So I was successful at replacing the Torsion bar mounts. The popping is still there but not as dominate as before. I notice it when on a bouncy road or riding over bumps. I also get it if i turn the wheel all the way and pull over hump (when the suspension is being maxed). All sounds like under the middle. I also notice when I had the torsion bar keys unloaded the keys had a lot of play up and down, side to side. When you move them by hand up and down I hear the same type of sound I get when I am driving it over bumps. Is it possible the inside of key is worn or the end of the torsion bar hex is worn causing this excessive play and noise? I made a youtube video talking about it that you can refer to and see what I have done. Thanks!
So I was successful at replacing the Torsion bar mounts. The popping is still there but not as dominate as before. I notice it when on a bouncy road or riding over bumps. I also get it if i turn the wheel all the way and pull over hump (when the suspension is being maxed). All sounds like under the middle. I also notice when I had the torsion bar keys unloaded the keys had a lot of play up and down, side to side. When you move them by hand up and down I hear the same type of sound I get when I am driving it over bumps. Is it possible the inside of key is worn or the end of the torsion bar hex is worn causing this excessive play and noise? I made a youtube video talking about it that you can refer to and see what I have done. Thanks!
Thanks JTF!! With it being a 97 and a PA truck the bushings all looks dry rotted and cracked so it can be like chasing your tail. Advance Auto has the torsion bar mounts in stock and with a TRT30 promo code for in-store pickup I can get both for $52 plus tax. The rear sway bar links look rough too. I could replace them first then go for a drive. They are a lot easier to do verses the torsion bar mounts.
Do you know, do I still need to compress the key with a puller before attempting to loosen then height level adjustment screw if broth front wheels are off the ground? Thanks!
Thanks JTF!! With it being a 97 and a PA truck the bushings all looks dry rotted and cracked so it can be like chasing your tail. Advance Auto has the torsion bar mounts in stock and with a TRT30 promo code for in-store pickup I can get both for $52 plus tax. The rear sway bar links look rough too. I could replace them first then go for a drive. They are a lot easier to do verses the torsion bar mounts.
Do you know, do I still need to compress the key with a puller before attempting to loosen then height level adjustment screw if broth front wheels are off the ground? Thanks!
Thanks Eric! So since the light hasn’t come back on with any further codes and the post cat sensor seams to read pretty steady is it safe to say that maybe I had a rich condition that tripped the light in the first place. I recently replaced the exhaust on my own from the cat back. I’m going to reset the PCM and drive a new drive cycle and see what happens. It’s due for emissions in a month. I hope that it’s not the cat going! Can’t afford that. I do get a strong exhaust odder. Then again those spider injectors can cause this two with the mileage. 142k.
Thanks Eric! So since the light hasn’t come back on with any further codes and the post cat sensor seams to read pretty steady is it safe to say that maybe I had a rich condition that tripped the light in the first place. I recently replaced the exhaust on my own from the cat back. I’m going to reset the PCM and drive a new drive cycle and see what happens. It’s due for emissions in a month. I hope that it’s not the cat going! Can’t afford that. I do get a strong exhaust odder. Then again those spider injectors can cause this two with the mileage. 142k.
I got a Check Engine light the other day stating, “P0144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 3”. I replaced the O2 Sensor after the Cat, Post-cat and no change in the Voltage Reading on that sensor’s Live Data. The Check engine hasn’t been back on since I cleared the code but, I have a rough idle with occasional Surge and bad fuel economy. The wiring looks okay going to the sensors. There are 4 O2 Sensors on this 97 Blazer with the 4.3L. I messed up what I was saying in the video, meant to say after the cat. Any Suggestions?
I got a Check Engine light the other day stating, “P0144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 3”. I replaced the O2 Sensor after the Cat, Post-cat and no change in the Voltage Reading on that sensor’s Live Data. The Check engine hasn’t been back on since I cleared the code but, I have a rough idle with occasional Surge and bad fuel economy. The wiring looks okay going to the sensors. There are 4 O2 Sensors on this 97 Blazer with the 4.3L. I messed up what I was saying in the video, meant to say after the cat. Any Suggestions?
Hello everyone…
I wanted to update everyone. I ordered and installed the Mevotech brand ball joints for my Blazer. I ended up getting them on Rockauto.com instead of eBay and actually saved $6 by doing so. I am glad I did because the quality of them are great and the ones on eBay I think where a service grade quality and din’t look as good. I would highly recommend Mevotech brand ball joints to anyone. The quality of the construction and hardware is very high. Even the rubber boots look good and don’t leak the grease out when you fill them up after install. I had crappy Drive Works Advance house brand on there before and they where shot in 1.5 years. The hardware (screws and bolts) where such a low grade that the threads ripped off the screw causing the nut to just sin on the screw when trying to remove them. I didn’t it in my buddy’s garage and didn’t have all my fancy air tools and had to use a hammer and cold chisel to brake the heads off to even remove the ball joints. I was at it from 10pm until 4am this morning. The one Moog Ball joint that was on the one side (because they didn’t have enough Drive Works in stock when I bought them) did’t give me any trouble removing the bolts and the joint was still pretty stiff but the boot was shot and the grease was everywhere. I will say that the Mevotech brand so far looks way better than even the quality of the Moog. I will keep everyone posted after they age a bit to see how well they will hold up, but as of now I will only buy Mevotech brand. I checked out their website and they make a lot of stuff.
The Blazer drives like a dream now. There is still a little float but, that’s because the idler arm is bad again. Even the ride is nice and it doesn’t hit nearly as hard over bumps now. Wish me luck everyone.
Hello everyone…
I wanted to update everyone. I ordered and installed the Mevotech brand ball joints for my Blazer. I ended up getting them on Rockauto.com instead of eBay and actually saved $6 by doing so. I am glad I did because the quality of them are great and the ones on eBay I think where a service grade quality and din’t look as good. I would highly recommend Mevotech brand ball joints to anyone. The quality of the construction and hardware is very high. Even the rubber boots look good and don’t leak the grease out when you fill them up after install. I had crappy Drive Works Advance house brand on there before and they where shot in 1.5 years. The hardware (screws and bolts) where such a low grade that the threads ripped off the screw causing the nut to just sin on the screw when trying to remove them. I didn’t it in my buddy’s garage and didn’t have all my fancy air tools and had to use a hammer and cold chisel to brake the heads off to even remove the ball joints. I was at it from 10pm until 4am this morning. The one Moog Ball joint that was on the one side (because they didn’t have enough Drive Works in stock when I bought them) did’t give me any trouble removing the bolts and the joint was still pretty stiff but the boot was shot and the grease was everywhere. I will say that the Mevotech brand so far looks way better than even the quality of the Moog. I will keep everyone posted after they age a bit to see how well they will hold up, but as of now I will only buy Mevotech brand. I checked out their website and they make a lot of stuff.
The Blazer drives like a dream now. There is still a little float but, that’s because the idler arm is bad again. Even the ride is nice and it doesn’t hit nearly as hard over bumps now. Wish me luck everyone.
Hello Everyone…
I wanted to update everyone. I installed a new CV axle on the driver side because the boot wouldn’t stay attached anymore. With the millage and age I didn’t bother rebuilding and replacing boot. It was cheap enough to just replace the entire half shaft. I did have a little issue getting the new one in. I used a rubber ma-lit to tap it into the differential. I hope I didn’t damage the diff but, I didn’t have any other way to get leverage to push it in. The teeth looked a little different than the original one. Its and aftermarket brand from Advance. I don’t seem to be having any issues with it. I assume it was the new ring on the end that was causing the resistance to pop in. The new half shaft locks in when you put it in 4-wheel drive so I guess it’s on and its not leaking any gear oil thanks to the new seal I installed last week.
Hello Everyone…
I wanted to update everyone. I installed a new CV axle on the driver side because the boot wouldn’t stay attached anymore. With the millage and age I didn’t bother rebuilding and replacing boot. It was cheap enough to just replace the entire half shaft. I did have a little issue getting the new one in. I used a rubber ma-lit to tap it into the differential. I hope I didn’t damage the diff but, I didn’t have any other way to get leverage to push it in. The teeth looked a little different than the original one. Its and aftermarket brand from Advance. I don’t seem to be having any issues with it. I assume it was the new ring on the end that was causing the resistance to pop in. The new half shaft locks in when you put it in 4-wheel drive so I guess it’s on and its not leaking any gear oil thanks to the new seal I installed last week.
