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Hey everyone! I am excited to let everyone know that I have solved the intermittent no crank issue on my 2000 Grand Prix GT. I really thought it was ether the Pass lock system, body control module or ignition switch. Turns out it was a bad starter all along. The starter some days would allow the car to start right up with out issue and sounded fine So I never thought it was a dead spot in the starter. After having a buddy turn the key to the START position while I touched a test light to the purple ignition feed wire on the starter solenoid I saw I was getting power from the ignition. I tapped the started with a hammer and sure enough the car started to crank and fired up. The new starter is in and the car has been starting every try for two days so far. I also installed a new ignition switch but, only because I broke it trying to clean it when I thought it was my issue. Thanks to a YouTube video I watched I learned not to try and service the ignition switch (too many clips and springs compressed inside). Here are my before and after videos posted below in order so you can see what I did.
Before…
After…
Hey everyone! I am excited to let everyone know that I have solved the intermittent no crank issue on my 2000 Grand Prix GT. I really thought it was ether the Pass lock system, body control module or ignition switch. Turns out it was a bad starter all along. The starter some days would allow the car to start right up with out issue and sounded fine So I never thought it was a dead spot in the starter. After having a buddy turn the key to the START position while I touched a test light to the purple ignition feed wire on the starter solenoid I saw I was getting power from the ignition. I tapped the started with a hammer and sure enough the car started to crank and fired up. The new starter is in and the car has been starting every try for two days so far. I also installed a new ignition switch but, only because I broke it trying to clean it when I thought it was my issue. Thanks to a YouTube video I watched I learned not to try and service the ignition switch (too many clips and springs compressed inside). Here are my before and after videos posted below in order so you can see what I did.
Before…
After…
I wanted to update everyone and let you know I solved the issue! I made a YouTube explaining. After adjusting the drum brakes with a slight drag on the self adjuster, I backed the shoes in by 3-4 clicks on the self adjuster. This also works on Cavalier’s and other GM’s with this drum brake platform. Hope this helps someone else out. I have driven for over a month and the drum brakes are still working great after doing this.
I wanted to update everyone and let you know I solved the issue! I made a YouTube explaining. After adjusting the drum brakes with a slight drag on the self adjuster, I backed the shoes in by 3-4 clicks on the self adjuster. This also works on Cavalier’s and other GM’s with this drum brake platform. Hope this helps someone else out. I have driven for over a month and the drum brakes are still working great after doing this.
I wanted to update everyone that the Volvo is fixed. My buddy took the Electronic Throttle Module/Throttle Body and replaced the gasket instead of reusing it like he had. Also left the pos and neg battery connections off over night with the neg and pos wires touching. (read on a Volvo forum this help drain the ECU). Also removed the the ETM and ECU fuse over night. The next morning put everything back together and the cars is running line a charm. Not too sure if it was the draining the computers or replacing the gasket on the ETU but, I personally don’t feel it was the gasket. Hope this helps someone!
I wanted to update everyone that the Volvo is fixed. My buddy took the Electronic Throttle Module/Throttle Body and replaced the gasket instead of reusing it like he had. Also left the pos and neg battery connections off over night with the neg and pos wires touching. (read on a Volvo forum this help drain the ECU). Also removed the the ETM and ECU fuse over night. The next morning put everything back together and the cars is running line a charm. Not too sure if it was the draining the computers or replacing the gasket on the ETU but, I personally don’t feel it was the gasket. Hope this helps someone!
Good Morning EricTheCarGuy club! I wanted to update everyone on my findings. I think I have finally diagnosed my knocking/clunking noise when it rains on the 97 Blazer. I don’t know why I didn’t think of this before, but I got an old spray bottle and filled with cold water. Then I climbed under and sprayed one thing at a time and would go for a drive. Finally I was able to duplicate the noise after spraying the upper and lower bushings on the rear leaf spring shackles. I am unsure if it is the bushing that is in the rear of the leaf spring or the one inside the frame where the shackles mounts on the top. I replaced the shackles about two years ago because the where rotted. I found a great deal on a Dorman kit but, I noted the mounting bolts hardware where not as thick as the original and there was some play where the bolts slit through the inner bushing sleeves. I wonder if this movement is causing the clunking? The bushing inside the frame that the top of the shackle mounts to was replaced when I did the the shackles but, not the ones in the actual leaf spring. Does anyone have an easy way to replace the busing on the leaf spring that isn’t going to cost me $500 for a tool or torching the old one out. It’s amazing to see how much a noise can travel and come from an entire different area than it may sound. I also made this cool video when I was attempting to diagnose my issue.
Good Morning EricTheCarGuy club! I wanted to update everyone on my findings. I think I have finally diagnosed my knocking/clunking noise when it rains on the 97 Blazer. I don’t know why I didn’t think of this before, but I got an old spray bottle and filled with cold water. Then I climbed under and sprayed one thing at a time and would go for a drive. Finally I was able to duplicate the noise after spraying the upper and lower bushings on the rear leaf spring shackles. I am unsure if it is the bushing that is in the rear of the leaf spring or the one inside the frame where the shackles mounts on the top. I replaced the shackles about two years ago because the where rotted. I found a great deal on a Dorman kit but, I noted the mounting bolts hardware where not as thick as the original and there was some play where the bolts slit through the inner bushing sleeves. I wonder if this movement is causing the clunking? The bushing inside the frame that the top of the shackle mounts to was replaced when I did the the shackles but, not the ones in the actual leaf spring. Does anyone have an easy way to replace the busing on the leaf spring that isn’t going to cost me $500 for a tool or torching the old one out. It’s amazing to see how much a noise can travel and come from an entire different area than it may sound. I also made this cool video when I was attempting to diagnose my issue.
Thank you JTF and everyone else that has replied. I am still new to the torsion bar setup and learning a lot. I am still getting the noise even after backing the inside of the keys with grease. I have check everything underneath and cannot determine the exact place the noise is coming from other than near the center to rear section. I know my leaf spring bushing are dry rotted and used the squeak when it would get cold and rain. I sprayed them with silicone spray and they don’t squeak anymore. I wonder it that could be another possibility of the noise source. I finally got a rainy day to record the noise on camera. In person the clunking is a lot worse than what the camera picked up. It only makes the noise when it rains. Thanks again everyone, I know I am starting to beat a dead horse and probably driving you guys nuts hear but I guess I am determined to fix this noise! haha. Please watch my YouTube Video below…
Thank you JTF and everyone else that has replied. I am still new to the torsion bar setup and learning a lot. I am still getting the noise even after backing the inside of the keys with grease. I have check everything underneath and cannot determine the exact place the noise is coming from other than near the center to rear section. I know my leaf spring bushing are dry rotted and used the squeak when it would get cold and rain. I sprayed them with silicone spray and they don’t squeak anymore. I wonder it that could be another possibility of the noise source. I finally got a rainy day to record the noise on camera. In person the clunking is a lot worse than what the camera picked up. It only makes the noise when it rains. Thanks again everyone, I know I am starting to beat a dead horse and probably driving you guys nuts hear but I guess I am determined to fix this noise! haha. Please watch my YouTube Video below…
I wanted to bring an old topic to life! I have resolved the mystery of my drum brakes sticking, crabbing and hanging up. Watch my YouTube video! Thanks everyone for all your constant support and information. Eric, I love your videos and your Eric the car guy site!!!
I wanted to bring an old topic to life! I have resolved the mystery of my drum brakes sticking, crabbing and hanging up. Watch my YouTube video! Thanks everyone for all your constant support and information. Eric, I love your videos and your Eric the car guy site!!!
Yeah, The way I compressed them was pretty stupid! I am always preaching to others about safety and here I go and do something really dangerous.
On a side note, the noise is still there after replacing the torsion bar cross member support bushing links that you can see in the above video. It really occurs when it rains and I’m driving. Every little bump sounds like I’m loosing something under the truck. I’m thinking too a lot of that tar like grease has fallen out of them. Would you have any suggestions of what kinda and where to get some replacement keys. Ones that aren’t too pricey and ones that will help even if there is wear on the end of the torsion bar hex it’s self? Should I replace new tar-like grease on the new ones I install? I can’t find a cheap unloader tool. The cheapest I can find is well over $100 and non of the local auto parts stock one or rent one out. Thanks again. I am 100% sure my noise is in the key area. I also get the clunk if the tuck shifts the the side when the other side goes over like a hump.