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Hello.. Thanks for replying so fast! It has the 4-speed over drive. My brother said he was at the car wash last night and sprayed the high pressure hose underneath the car and after that started to idle kind of high and shifts felt delayed. Today it won’t shift out of 1st until 35mph. He messed with the TV cable and made no difference. Its dark and too late to look under it now but I’m thinking he knocked the vacuum module out or its hose. Any thoughts. Im going to attach a picture of it for you. Its in great shape for being a PA car!
Hello everyone. I wanted to update everyone and let you all know that I successfully and properly changed my motor and transmission mounts on my 1997 Chevy Blazer with the 4.3L. It is a little tricky but, I proved that I can be done without dropping the front differential on 4-wheel drive models. Disconnect the negative battery terminal because you will be working very close to the starter. If you jack up the front of the vehicle and support the frame on jack stands, remove the front tires, go through the splash flaps inside the wheel wells to remove the pass threw bolts that hold the motor mount to the support bracket on the frame. The bolt is a 16mm and the back up nut is towards the firewall and is a 17mm. Then remove the front splash shield in front of the cross member that covers the steering components and oil filter. Remove the upper fan shroud. Remove the air box. Remove the steering shaft fastener and telescope it back toward the firewall then use a rope to tie up and out of the way. Now carefully use a block of wood on your floor jack to jack the motor up being careful to not go to high and damage anything on top. how go to each side, driver and passenger side wheel wells to reach in the remove the fasteners that hold the engine mount to the side of the engine block. There are two 14mm fasteners on top left and right side of the mount and one on the bottom middle of the mount bracket. There is an aluminum exhaust heat shield that will come off with the top two motor mount bolts. Remember to reinstall this shield properly when installing the new mount. Slide the old mount out. Remove the motor mount frame brackets from the frame. There are three fasteners on the bracket 13mm, one on top and two towards the middle bottom of the mount. Removing the bracket from the frame will give you better access to put the bottom bolt into the mount going into the engine block. The re-assembly is the reverse. Please let me know if anyone has any questions. I have already done two Blazers and this procedure works great on the 4-wheel drive model and would work even better on the 2-wheel drive setup. Takes about 4.5 hours to do without a buddy. FYI, get the GM motor mounts and spend the extra money. You won’t want to do this job a second time anytime soon. eBay has the mounts for about $68 free shipping. Here is my YouTube video.
Hey everyone! I fixed my issue. It was the rear universal joint. The good news I have replaced a bunch of other stuff too including the leaf spring pads & leaf spring bushings to finally get my diagnosis. I made a video to show you all what I did. Thanks again everyone for your great information and help!
The sound seams to be coming from the rear more so or rear-center area. It is ironic that you mentioned the hub because about a month ago I replaced the front driver wheel hub. I will check the mounting bolts on it again. thanks
Hello and thanks so much for your reply! The shift Solenoids in this transmission are accessible right inside the bottom pan where the filter is located. There are two of them that clip in with a small metal “U” shaped spring clip. You do not have to remove the valve body to replace them. I only damaged one. I broke the wire connector because I didn’t loosen the transmission mount bolts and raid the transmission slightly to give extra room to slide the pan out from between the cross-member / brace. I only replaced both because I was already in there and figured it couldn’t hurt. The only bolts removed to do this job was the pan bolts are are all the same size and wouldn’t have effected the sun-gear way up inside the transmission. The more I listen to the noise it sounds like it maybe coming from the rear. I was also thinking the rear sway bar links since the bushings are so dry rotted and shot. I already ordered a set on rockauto.
I also want to mention I can also hear this metal clicking/creaking sound as I slow down to a stop. Right about the point the transmission would downshift into first or second to stop.
Another update guys! I found a way on YouTube to make a homemade bushing press to I could more easily install my new leaf spring bushings, I made it out of an old scissor jack I had laying around. Watch my video I made to see it in action… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVJMz_Qz1TU&feature=youtu.be
Hello everyone,
I wanted to update this topic about my leaf spring bushings. I replaced both of the front side of the leaf spring bushings. They are bigger than the ones on the rear of the leaf springs. The ones towards the front are GM part #: 15963452. GM has discontinued them. I went on TruckSpings.com and ordered from them part # RB-231. I also had to get replacement bolts and nuts for the leaf springs bushings because I had to cut the old ones off from being rusted and seized inside the bushings. I used a 4.5″ grinder cut off wheel and a electric grinder to cut the bolts and my local dealership had the replacements still in stock. I don’t have a press or a tool to install them so after using a drill to drill out the bushing rubber of the old ones and cut the metal ring casing of the bushing with a saws all, I used white lithium grease and a block of wood with a hammer to tap the new ones in. I still need to replace the rear side of the leaf spring bushings but, they are obtainable at any Auto Parts. The ride quality has greatly improved already. Rides like a new truck already from the replacing the front bushings. Took me about 1.5 hours on each side. Thanks.
Hello everyone… I wanted to update you folks and let you know I called Ford (local Dealership) and they provided me with a part number for that metal ring seal for the inner rear of the brake Drum. The never heard of an issue with these leaking because the only use Motorcraft drums that come with the this seal. The aftermarkets do not. So to order this part from Ford is about $15.00. I ordered two on eBay for around $24.00. The part number for the seals is: 1M5Z1A095A. I am also going to replace the drum with the pressed in bearing because it is a closed bearing and shouldn’t be splattering grease everywhere. I am also planning to replace the wheel cylinders and part of the brake like leading into the wheel cylinders due to rust. I will try and make a YouTube video for you guys ones I get all the parts and a semi-warm day outside. I hope this information helps someone else out. Also don’t forget to transfer the outer magnetic ABS ring over from the old drum to the new one. It does onto the inner back of the drum after you tap in the metal seal ring I ordered above. This is about a $30.00 part from Ford if you damage or forget it. If you gave ABS you will get an ABS light right away when you start driving if you forget to put it on. Thanks for reading. 🙂
Hello everyone… I wanted to update you folks and let you know I called Ford (local Dealership) and they provided me with a part number for that metal ring seal for the inner rear of the brake Drum. The never heard of an issue with these leaking because the only use Motorcraft drums that come with the this seal. The aftermarkets do not. So to order this part from Ford is about $15.00. I ordered two on eBay for around $24.00. The part number for the seals is: 1M5Z1A095A. I am also going to replace the drum with the pressed in bearing because it is a closed bearing and shouldn’t be splattering grease everywhere. I am also planning to replace the wheel cylinders and part of the brake like leading into the wheel cylinders due to rust. I will try and make a YouTube video for you guys ones I get all the parts and a semi-warm day outside. I hope this information helps someone else out. Also don’t forget to transfer the outer magnetic ABS ring over from the old drum to the new one. It does onto the inner back of the drum after you tap in the metal seal ring I ordered above. This is about a $30.00 part from Ford if you damage or forget it. If you gave ABS you will get an ABS light right away when you start driving if you forget to put it on. Thanks for reading. 🙂
did some research and found out what I need. Please refer back to the picture and last paragraph I added to my original post. Thanks
did some research and found out what I need. Please refer back to the picture and last paragraph I added to my original post. Thanks
I am super excited to inform everyone that I have fixed the Volvo S60 with the misfire, rough idle, stalling, and exhaust leak with smoke coming up from behind the engine problems. The O2 Sensor on the rear of the engine that screws into the corresponding pipe to the flex pipe on the side of the Turbo was missing. Yep, Missing! It was dangling from it’s wire off to the side leaving the threaded hole it screws into wide open. Apparently last summer when the “Non-Volvo” mechanic installed this engine, he must have hand tightened the sensor into the exhaust and forgot to go back with a wrench to snug it down. Over the past year my buddy has been complaining about an exhaust smell under the hood and inside the car that is now gone. It must have worked it’s way lose from engine vibration and finally came completely out. We pulled the car up onto the ramps last night and I rolled under the car and in less that a minute I discovered the issue. We cleared the check engine codes with our fancy Volvo diagnostics tool he bought on eBay that can read ALL the Volvo codes and reset them. The car is running perfect now with no misfire, rough idle or exhaust leak.
I will admit that I am very angry at the garage he took it to that quoted him $2,000 to replace the “blown turbo” and a “blown head gasket”! How can someone miss something so stupid like this?? I’m not a mechanic and just work on cars in my driveway for fun and i figured it out. Well no more of my complaining. I just wanted to update all my EricTheCarGuy friends out there! Thanks again everyone!
I am super excited to inform everyone that I have fixed the Volvo S60 with the misfire, rough idle, stalling, and exhaust leak with smoke coming up from behind the engine problems. The O2 Sensor on the rear of the engine that screws into the corresponding pipe to the flex pipe on the side of the Turbo was missing. Yep, Missing! It was dangling from it’s wire off to the side leaving the threaded hole it screws into wide open. Apparently last summer when the “Non-Volvo” mechanic installed this engine, he must have hand tightened the sensor into the exhaust and forgot to go back with a wrench to snug it down. Over the past year my buddy has been complaining about an exhaust smell under the hood and inside the car that is now gone. It must have worked it’s way lose from engine vibration and finally came completely out. We pulled the car up onto the ramps last night and I rolled under the car and in less that a minute I discovered the issue. We cleared the check engine codes with our fancy Volvo diagnostics tool he bought on eBay that can read ALL the Volvo codes and reset them. The car is running perfect now with no misfire, rough idle or exhaust leak.
I will admit that I am very angry at the garage he took it to that quoted him $2,000 to replace the “blown turbo” and a “blown head gasket”! How can someone miss something so stupid like this?? I’m not a mechanic and just work on cars in my driveway for fun and i figured it out. Well no more of my complaining. I just wanted to update all my EricTheCarGuy friends out there! Thanks again everyone!
Good Morning everyone!
I am super excited to inform everyone that I have fixed the Volvo S60 with the misfire, rough idle, stalling, and exhaust leak with smoke coming up from behind the engine problems. The O2 Sensor on the rear of the engine that screws into the corresponding pipe to the flex pipe on the side of the Turbo was missing. Yep, Missing! It was dangling from it’s wire off to the side leaving the threaded hole it screws into wide open. Apparently last summer when the “Non-Volvo” mechanic installed this engine, he must have hand tightened the sensor into the exhaust and forgot to go back with a wrench to snug it down. Over the past year my buddy has been complaining about an exhaust smell under the hood and inside the car that is now gone. It must have worked it’s way lose from engine vibration and finally came completely out. We pulled the car up onto the ramps last night and I rolled under the car and in less that a minute I discovered the issue. We cleared the check engine codes with our fancy Volvo diagnostics tool he bought on eBay that can read ALL the Volvo codes and reset them. The car is running perfect now with no misfire, rough idle or exhaust leak.
I will admit that I am very angry at the garage he took it to that quoted him $2,000 to replace the “blown turbo” and a “blown head gasket”! How can someone miss something so stupid like this?? I’m not a mechanic and just work on cars in my driveway for fun and i figured it out. Well no more of my complaining. I just wanted to update all my EricTheCarGuy friends out there! Thanks again everyone!
Good Morning everyone!
I am super excited to inform everyone that I have fixed the Volvo S60 with the misfire, rough idle, stalling, and exhaust leak with smoke coming up from behind the engine problems. The O2 Sensor on the rear of the engine that screws into the corresponding pipe to the flex pipe on the side of the Turbo was missing. Yep, Missing! It was dangling from it’s wire off to the side leaving the threaded hole it screws into wide open. Apparently last summer when the “Non-Volvo” mechanic installed this engine, he must have hand tightened the sensor into the exhaust and forgot to go back with a wrench to snug it down. Over the past year my buddy has been complaining about an exhaust smell under the hood and inside the car that is now gone. It must have worked it’s way lose from engine vibration and finally came completely out. We pulled the car up onto the ramps last night and I rolled under the car and in less that a minute I discovered the issue. We cleared the check engine codes with our fancy Volvo diagnostics tool he bought on eBay that can read ALL the Volvo codes and reset them. The car is running perfect now with no misfire, rough idle or exhaust leak.
I will admit that I am very angry at the garage he took it to that quoted him $2,000 to replace the “blown turbo” and a “blown head gasket”! How can someone miss something so stupid like this?? I’m not a mechanic and just work on cars in my driveway for fun and i figured it out. Well no more of my complaining. I just wanted to update all my EricTheCarGuy friends out there! Thanks again everyone!
