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So you guys don’t think that the new lenses would help? The reflection chrome inside the light housing’s look doll and the lenses them selves aren’t as clear as the ones I see on eBay.
It’s not actually stalling, it catches it’s self before it does. I took it out on the highway and opened it up and it stopped doing it. I just feel that there is still something wrong because some days it’s fine and others it acts up some what or acts of really bad.
I recently had the battery disconnected to clean the terminals but that was almost 500 miles ago. I figured buy now it would have fininshed all the drive cycles. My buddy that’s. Mechanic suggested I disconnect the batter and clean the throttle body and then drive it again to see if that helps. He says on the new cars with the electronic throttle body can have a hard time completing the relearn process after having batter disconnected if the throttle body is dirty.
Today something new. When coming to a stop in my Altima it Sputters and tries to stall out. Once again it’s 48 degrees out, in that temperature band it acts up.
I currently have no check engine light and no codes or stored codes. I watched the live data on my diagnostics tool and saw nothing out of the normal. The only thing I did notice was bank 1 sensor 3 O2 Sensor readings where not fluctuating. It maybe possible this vehicle doesn’t have this sensor. Just odd that the diagnostics tool was looking for it.
I also want to add that the slight jolt, miss or surge not sure of the best term to describe it only occurs once during first morning start up while idle is high and usually happens with in the first 10 seconds. The only time I have noticed it do it the three times in a row is after it has rained out and sat over night. When it gets below approx. 40 degrees it doesn’t do this at all at cold start idle. Only when above approx. 40 degrees. Sometimes the engine feels to be running slightly rough even when warm at a stop light. Nothing major just a little vibration from the engine like its not idling as smooth as it normally does.
The temperature gauge reads accurate and I cross referenced it with the live data readings on my diagnostics tool and it looks right on par.
Other than this the car run great! I love the car. It has been extremely reliable, good on gas, doesn’t burn or leak any oil, lots of power and doesn’t eat of brake pads like my GM’s did.
My brother has a 2012 Altima with same engine and his doesn’t do it at all. Slightly lower millage though but, mine has done it since I purchased it two years ago with 30,000 miles.
I’m thinking it may need the throttle body cleaned.
thanks!
Hello everyone,
I wanted to update everyone and let you all know I completed the drain and re-fill on my 2011 Altima. Per the Nissan Dealership I dropped the transmission oil pan because there is no drain plug on the pan. The drain plugs sits high up on the left side of the transmission way above the pan preventing you from getting adequate fluid out. I made a how-to video on YouTube for your reference,
I also forgot to mention that I also noticed a much improved performance after changing out only the 3 quarts. I didn’t think it would make any difference but, it feels like the car accelerates smoother and more freely. The CVT seems less jerky, more responsive and quieter. I’m now convinced it did need changed when Nissan claimed it didn’t at 47k. I can only imagine how much better it will feel if I could have gotten more fluid out.
So I am thinking I should have done a little more research before tackling this drain and refill of my CVT. I took out the drain plug and only about 1.5 quarts drained out. I used a siphon to try and extract more and was able to get another 1.5 quarts out. I couldn’t find an open path inside the drain hole to rout the siphon hose down and into the pan. So my total of 3 quarts removed was very disappointing. There has to be another better and recommended way to change the CVT fluid. The fluid was for sure dirty and had friction material in it. There was a noticeable difference from the old to new fluid color. I was thinking of dropping the pan since the drain plug isn’t located on the actual pan but, instead far above it on the side of the transmission. I didn’t have a pan gasket on hand, it was Sunday and I wasn’t sure if I could reuse the old one. I feel like I wasted the 3 new quarts by only getting the small amount out. I had no choice because I needed to drive the vehicle and had to re-fill and put everything back together. The service manual says 7-3/4 US quarts should have come out?? I check the level and its where it should be on the dipstick. I am so confused! I have also read to disconnect the CVT cooler return line and let it run out of there but, I didn’t want to buy $200 in CVT fluid when all I am trying to accomplish is a quick drain and re-fill.
Any Nissan Mechanics out there able to shine some light on this? When you call the dealerships they act like the know nothing about the CVT and make everything a big secret. It scares me to know they where going to charge me $199.99 to do a drain and refill when only 1.5 quarts freely came out.
Thanks College Man! Ironically enough I purchased an online PDF Service Manual for $15 that tells me everything 3 minutes before you replied. It looks like I’m not changing the CVT fluid today. I only have 5 quarts. Strange that the one person on YouTube did the procedure on his 2008 Altima and about 5 quarts came out he said. I wonder what that’s all about? I wonder if the 2008 CVT is different than the 2011. I attached the page to help others out from the service manual I downloaded. Thanks.
Here is a video I made of the car if you would like to see? I also talk about the transmission and how I dropped the pan and replaced the fluid, filter and gasket. Looked good inside the tranny and not a lot of friction material.
Sounds great and thanks again! My brother is buying it on Wednesday. Buying it from friends for $1,500. Like I said before its in amazing shape. Very solid for being a PA car. Just passed inspection too. We will drop the pan and replace filter and fluid. My only concern about flushing is of the clutches are a little worn and I remove the old fluid with the friction material in it will it start having more issue? Obviously not holding your advice against you haha. I’m just looking for your opinion on that. Thanks and I’ll keep ya posted on any further progress.
Thanks again! So final thoughts… My brother loves the car and I would have to agree it rides like a charm and is in really good shape for the age. I drove it myself and I have been working on cars for several years (backyard mechanic haha) and I am a little nerves about that first shift. It feels softer and less productive but shifts when it’s supposed to now with the TV cable adjusted. It is even worse when you drive it a little harder on start out. Should we still buy the car? Do you think a fluid change will help or a bad idea at this point? The fluid is a old and darker. It doesn’t smell burnt just looks old. My brother doesn’t want to buy it and in two weeks have to drop a Transmission into it. He understands that soon he may need to though. All the other gears feel ok. I don’t feel overdrive is there because of the electrical connecter from being a different tranny.
Leave fluid and put Lucas? Thanks again!
Thanks again for all of your info! I wanted to update you all. The Olds now shifts after my brother adjusted the TV cable. Coming out of 1st still feels a little mushy or labored when actually shifting. Not as productive as before. I also attached two pictures of that wire that is cut and someone put glue over the plug. Thanks again,
Hello and thanks again for all the info. I will have to look at the car myself since I am a little better with cars than my brother. I also wanted to add that when I was doing the brake lines I noticed that what appeared to be the torque converter wires were cut off and someone put glue over the plug. I assume this is the torque converter. It’s located on the driver side of the transmission on the case right above the pan. Really stinks he is having this issue since the car was running and driving fine for the past few weeks but, it did sit for a year without being driven until now. I really need to find time to go over to where the car is and look it over myself. I have been working on my own cars and cars for friends for about years in my driveway but, I am actually better with the newer cars. Thanks again!
I waned to update you guys and give you some more information. The transmission is the GM 200R-4 Hydramatic with over drive. It doesn’t appear to have a vacuum modular. My brother adjusted the TV cable in and all the way out and drive it and made no difference. Still takes it until 35 MPH before shifting out of 1st gear. I assume he shouldn’t by this car now? It’s a shame because he already paid to have it inspected, did the brake lines and filled the gas tank.
