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Update 2. The rough idle when cold still exists. I checked the fuel pressure and it is about 55-58 PSI. With engine off and fuel system primed, the fuel rail looses about 4-5 PSI after about 5 minutes of sitting. I am not sure if this is normal or a sign of a leaking injector or bad check-valve in the fuel pump? I also did a injector balance test using my Autel scanner and disabled individually each injector at a time and the idle got more rough and you could feel it miss. So the injectors seem to be contributing properly. I still have no codes. If you actuate the IAC valve via my Autel Scanner to different RPM’s you can feel the engine shaking and struggling to hold the set idle by the scanner. Is it possible that maybe I just have a faulty IAC valve? thanks
Update! So I took off the entire throttle body and removed the IAC valve. It was all guncked with carbon inside the IAC housing and passage. I took and old tooth brush and cleaned with throttle cleaner the valve and housing along with the backside of the throttle body. Now at cold idle it runs like 80% better and not shaking nearly as much! I will keep you guys posted if I discover or do anything further!
The pinion seal is leaking. I’m afraid to change that due to horror stories of people not setting he load right and ruining their rear end. The yoke and entire front of the rear diff was covered in gear oil. Not dripping, just wet with dirt stuck to it. It also splattered up on to the floor board. After replacing the rear wheel seals that where also leaking and installing new gasket with gasket maker on diff cover and putting in new fluid I used engine degreaser to clean the entire diff, floor board and around the yoke. I power washed it and drive about 50 miles tonight to test everything out. Only sall a few specks of gear oil around the yoke.
Do you think I should just keep and eye on it and the fluid level and just drive it or replace the pinion seal? For all I know it may have taken years of driving for it to get as wet as it was. I’m thinking too the universal joint maybe starting to go bad and possible the vibration of the yoke is causing the fluid to sneak out when driving past the seal. U-joints are cheep enough for it and I’ve done them before on a Chevy so I should be able to handle this at least.
Also engaging into reverse and drive takes 2-3 second. I’m not familiar with Jeep Chrysler transmissions. Is that normal? The fluid looks brand new and smells good. Perfect level. I’m thinking it was rebuilt due to how clean the tranny is compared to the motor and it shifts great down the road.
Thanks again!
I changed rear wheel seals and put 75 90 mobile one LS with friction additive in it and the shudder is gone when accelerating with wheel turned. Previous owner must have had wrong fluid. Thanks everyone
Thanks! I did some research and found that my issue will be caused by incorrect gear oil in the rear differential that doesn’t contain the limited slip additive. I see Advance Auto Parts sell 75-90 Mobile One LS oil. Do I still need to purchase and add this LS additive and how much do I put in if yes? I am getting mixed information. Two mechanics said I don’t have to put the additive in with this fluid.
I’m also going to check battery when I get home from work today. The miss could be completely unrelated
Temperature doesn’t have an impact. It can sit over night or be started up after running all day and warmed up. It still has a lengthened crank time. It is getting worse though and has developed a high idle cold engine miss you can feel. Otherwize the car runs great and performs as it should.
Other non-related items I have done since we bought the car was I dropped the transmission pan and did a drain and refill with new filter and gasket. I installed new air filter, running full synthetic oil, and had the coolant back flushed to get rid of Dex-cool. I had to do intake gaskets on one of these engines from Dex-cool a few years back.
Hello. Like I mentioned in my topic I haven’t attempted to clean the throttle body in fear of causing a bigger issues or idle relearn issue. I’ve read horror stories of people cleaning these throttle bodies and the car not running right after words.
I got lucky and bought it on Craigs List for $400.00. The gentleman hadn’t registered it yet so I was able to get a free 2017 update. It works well. The “CVTF POOR QUALITY DETERMINED” is NOT a trouble code. It is a feature under the special functions and maintenance. It gives me the option to clear it but, I fear it may cause a drive-ability problem if it is a adaptive setting for something. My assumption is it is the fluid quality monitor. I did do a basic drain and refill on the CVT last summer. Nissan doesn’t know anything about their cars from my experience. Like I have mentioned, I am not having any issues. Just more curious. Thanks guys!!
I reached out to BlueDriver who makes the Bluetooth OBD2 code reader that Eric and ChrisFix do a review on but, they said it wouldn’t work. Bluedriver tells me due to the early stages of OBD2 in 1997 that manufactures where doing their own things with ABS computer software. Since then, there are more mandated standards for vehicle computer systems making the 2000’s and newer easier to pull codes from. This still doesn’t explain what Snap-On does to make their tools read it and why other companies don’t support it.
Innova wanted $99 to update the ABS Firmware on my brand new Scan tool. That’s more that what I paid for the tool. Innova claimed it should have worked right out of the box even after reaching out to them about it. I wish I knew someone that was selling an older Snap On scanner that would read the ABS on this. I can’t afford a new one. I would be wiling to even buy something a little more expensive that’s generic if I knew it would work.
Thank you Cam0888. I bought this Innova 3040c Code reader today at Auto Zone. Unfortunately it did not communicate with my 1997 Chevy Blazer ABS Computer. I e-mailed the company before I purchased it and they said it would work, but it doesn’t. I got the same results as I have with every Scan tool besides a Snap-On professional version. The Snap-On one my buddies uses reads my ABS computer and reports codes and live data without issue. I just feel bad bugging him all the time to read codes and would be nice to have a way to pull ABS codes on this vehicle myself. The good new is the manager at Auto Zone said I can return the Innova code reader for a refund. It is so strange to me that only a high end diagnostics scanner will read this ABS computer.
I wouldn’t really consider not removing the oil pan and using silicone a “hack job”. The factory uses silicone sealant at the edges/corners where the oil pan, timing cover match up to the block. My question I’m asking is, “is it a requirement to drop the oil pan to remove and reinstall the timing cover?” I prefer to do the job correctly but I am unsure of the process so that’s why I’m asking. Not to be a immature child but, the last reply I took offense too. It was kind of a rude reply. I’m here to get help and ask questions.
I don’t have the means to drop the entire oil pan without help. This is a second vehicle that is old and has a lot of miles on it. It doesn’t have to be perfect.
Hello Eric!
Great video! I have something I would like to add about your video and also talk about a recent personal experience with a dealership that I need some advice on.
First of all, I don’t consider myself a automotive mechanic but, more of a Backyard DYI professional. I work on cars for friends and family all of the time and most of the time I am willing to accept a new challenge. Before I commit to a repair job, I research what is involved and make sure I have the knowledge and resources/tools available to properly complete the job. I know when to say, “No” to a job that I am not comfortable doing. I see a lot of technician get into these positions with a simple inspections license and think they know how to do anything. Their afraid to admit to not knowing how to do something and go ahead with a job and cause more damage than good. My friend wanted me to do a timing belt and tensioner, pull the upper head of his Volvo to fix and oil leak and I decided to decline the job after researching what was involved. “Getting in over you head” I think was one of your videos you made is a good example.
The second thing I wanted to talk about what my needed advice about an experience I had with a Nissan Dealership. I recently took my Nissan Altima to the dealer to have the coolant exchanged and flushed. This is a service I could have easily done myself at home but, prefer to have the flush machine back flush the system to get as much old coolant out as possible and to avoid having to bleed the air from the system. My vehicle has aprox. 50,000 miles and is a 2011 with the 2.5L. I have used one of these coolant exchange machines at my neighbors garage and I know how to hook it up and perform the service properly. When the mechanic took my car in the garage it was only in the garage for about 5-10 minutes and then I saw them do the courtesy inspection on the lift for about 2 minutes. I could’t see clearly into the garage to verify they actually did the coolant flush. The only possible evidence that anything at all was touch was a little dribble of coolant on the over-flow tank. There was no spillage of coolant that typically takes place when disconnecting the house to connect the bypass hoses form the machine and non of the hose clamps have any scratches/marks of signs of movement. The coolant looks clean but, then again it did when I took it in. I only had the service performed for preventive maintenance. Nobody came to me and said, “Sir, your coolant still looks good and tested good, do you still want us to perform the service?”. So one of two things happened. One, the technician is an OCD perfectionist and cleaned/dried up everything and made sure the hoses and clamps where put back on exactly the same without causing any marks on the clamps from the players or two, the service was never performed an they simply tested the coolant in the overflow tank or added some to the tank. I have had issues with this dealership before not wanting to replace defective parts under warranty. I only returned there because they have a high turn-over and there was mostly new people and I was hopping for a better experience. In addition they are local. I could have bought the Blue Asian coolant myself and waited for my neighbor to use his coolant exchange machine but, I was being impatient and I had received my tax return and figured let someone else deal with it. haha
What are your thoughts everyone? I felt my personal experience kind of tied into Eric’s video today.