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Presently the door panel is off, master switch/multiplex control unit is removed.
Before continuing on I think I should find out why the (F19 green and white) wire has no voltage, it is fed directly from the #15 20amp fuse.
If I repair/get voltage at f19 and the driverside window is still not working then most definately it is the master switch which also has the multiplex control unit built in.[quote=”AntonioCm1983″ post=196405]Which also runs to power window master switch for driver front and rear windows and passenger front and rear windows it’s all one circuit so I think one wire went bad and that’s why one driver side window and one passenger side window isnt working[/quote]
Hey Antonio
My car only has 2 windows, Passenger and Driver.Presently the Passenger Side window works perfectly, the Driver side is where the problem is.
My understanding when looking at the diagram is:
#37 fuse under hood (white/blue wire) goes into the Power window relay, from the relay it branches off into 2 fuses, #15 (Green/white) and #16 (Blu/Black). The Blu/black goes to the Passenger side multiplex switch and the green/White goes to the driver side multiplex. We can rule out the relay because the passenger side window works fine. Manual says there should be voltage at the green/white wire with the ignition in the II position, that’s where I’m at a roadblock, I have no voltage there.[quote=”AntonioCm1983″ post=196401]You messaged and said thanks for the help was it actually a fuse or were you thanking me for constantly messaging trying to help if it was a fuse and problem is fixed let me know if it’s not solved please also let me know so I know to look at the circuit diagram more[/quote]
not a fuse, just thanking you for trying to help.
Hey Antonio
Thanks for the help.I’ve owned the car since new, haven’t had 1 fuse blow on me.
I’ve posted the page that was missing, I didn’t post it before as that page deals with Passenger side controls which work fine.The break is definately in the door jam, problem is there’s no room to work in that area, atleast with my hands.
I’ve attached the wiring diagram.
Dipping the catty in bleach (24hours) overnight and then rinsing it off with distilled water should work better. (you’ve got to try in your next video)
Make sure the catty is thoroughly dryed before installing.
Dipping the catty in bleach (24hours) overnight and then rinsing it off with distilled water should work better. (you’ve got to try in your next video)
Make sure the catty is thoroughly dryed before installing.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98599]I know there will probably be a lot of comments on this one. I wanted to try and cover as much as possible in this video. I think I did pretty good. BTW there’s an extended version of this video available for Premium Members that shows one other method that isn’t soldering.
Hey Eric
Job well done.A few tips from my experience:
-tin the tip after your finished using the gun/iron-while your using the gun/iron turn the heat down when it’s not in use. (your setup (Weller) heats up in no time)
-depending what your soldering, ex. gauge of wire, motherboards, etc. heat doesn’t have to be very high, it’s more of a experimental thing. Motherboards usually require high heat, soldering tip is placed on the motherboard a second or two. Whereas, when soldering wires, depending on the gauge, it will take abit longer for the solder to flow, thick wires require medium heat, thin wires (like Honda 2P connectors) require medium to high heat.
-tinning the wire tips to make a connection, in my opinion, doesn’t work that well. If your running the wires across a motherboard then that method is fine.
-make sure whenever soldering both surface(s) are clean, rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip does the job.
-I don’t use the paste flux, I use a Flux Pen.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/pens/rosin-flux-835-p/[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98599]I know there will probably be a lot of comments on this one. I wanted to try and cover as much as possible in this video. I think I did pretty good. BTW there’s an extended version of this video available for Premium Members that shows one other method that isn’t soldering.
Hey Eric
Job well done.A few tips from my experience:
-tin the tip after your finished using the gun/iron-while your using the gun/iron turn the heat down when it’s not in use. (your setup (Weller) heats up in no time)
-depending what your soldering, ex. gauge of wire, motherboards, etc. heat doesn’t have to be very high, it’s more of a experimental thing. Motherboards usually require high heat, soldering tip is placed on the motherboard a second or two. Whereas, when soldering wires, depending on the gauge, it will take abit longer for the solder to flow, thick wires require medium heat, thin wires (like Honda 2P connectors) require medium to high heat.
-tinning the wire tips to make a connection, in my opinion, doesn’t work that well. If your running the wires across a motherboard then that method is fine.
-make sure whenever soldering both surface(s) are clean, rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip does the job.
-I don’t use the paste flux, I use a Flux Pen.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/pens/rosin-flux-835-p/[quote=”wysetech” post=98523]8 Days is not acceptable. I would be asking for another car.[/quote]
My thoughts exactly.
Or if the dealer doesn’t want to do that ask for a “lifetime warranty” on the transmission parts with labour included.
100 miles and you’ve got problems is ridiculous.[quote=”wysetech” post=98523]8 Days is not acceptable. I would be asking for another car.[/quote]
My thoughts exactly.
Or if the dealer doesn’t want to do that ask for a “lifetime warranty” on the transmission parts with labour included.
100 miles and you’ve got problems is ridiculous.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=97965]If the cooling fans are cycling I wouldn’t worry about it. Just be sure you purge the air out of the cooling system anytime you open it up for service. If not, all kinds of problems will result including cooling fan issues.
More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats%5B/quote%5D
I’ve got the same funnel, bought it awhile ago after I saw your video.
When I was monitoring the temperature with the scanner I was looking at the ECT temperature, if I have time this week I’ll bleed it again and stick a meat thermometer into the rad whole/funnel while bleeding it, temperature should be close to what I monitored a few days ago.
I’ve got 2 sensors, one close to the thermostat and the other is beneath the Distributor, close to the Vtec solenoid, next to the temperature sending unit. From what I understand, the one beneath the distributor reports back to the car’s computer.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=97965]If the cooling fans are cycling I wouldn’t worry about it. Just be sure you purge the air out of the cooling system anytime you open it up for service. If not, all kinds of problems will result including cooling fan issues.
More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats%5B/quote%5D
I’ve got the same funnel, bought it awhile ago after I saw your video.
When I was monitoring the temperature with the scanner I was looking at the ECT temperature, if I have time this week I’ll bleed it again and stick a meat thermometer into the rad whole/funnel while bleeding it, temperature should be close to what I monitored a few days ago.
I’ve got 2 sensors, one close to the thermostat and the other is beneath the Distributor, close to the Vtec solenoid, next to the temperature sending unit. From what I understand, the one beneath the distributor reports back to the car’s computer.