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Well just watched your video 6:30 am here. About to head off to my “JOB”,would rather play with engines and oil and grease all day, but oh well, I have seen squeeze ball tester before but never used one. I understand the principles. I guess the crack or whatever is so small it is not causing the coolant to boil into the reservoir and cause coolant loss, by the way the reservoir is cracked so if coolant does go in there the system can’t draw it back in during recirc. cycle. I will go by one of the many great parts stores after work and get one or the other. Have you ever seen an issue as mine where the coolant is not leaving the system but is definitely not right. The problem started with rough idle after warm up 6 months ago and has progressively got worst. To the point she parked and said please fix it. She has said numerous times the engine has never over-heated. And in my experiences with combustion gases in coolant system the temp would climb and climb then release or keep climbing to the point of OH ****! SHUT ER DOWN! This must be so small at this point the cap is relieving the air but not losing coolant. Thanks again….. I’ll repost this evening
Update….. I started the car again at air temperature. Opened the heater core valve,had the AC on max, and opened the radiator cap. Revved the car up to what felt like 3000 rpm and held it until the thermostat opened and both coolant fans came on and thats when the eruption starts. Right as the thermo. opens the bubbles start out small, like less than 1/16″ DIA,and then less than say 5 secs later they get pretty big, about 1/4″-3/8th” in DIA. The stench that comes out is awful,it smells exactly like exhaust fumes and antifreeze mixed,as I mentioned before I have changed quite a few head gaskets before, and the coolant looks like brown/green/white and very agitated. I shut the engine down. Got the #1 Piston to TDC, pulled the plug and screwed a compression tester male end into the head. As I mentioned before my comp. is only rated to 125psi, pressurized it and it held. I did the same for each cylinder. I do understand that the compression is up around 200psi or so, maybe more under fire and load right? Not positive on exact compression? I also know that as the coolant heats to 185 or 195, based on thermostat, things start to expand. Not confident that 125 psi was enough,and since my coolant system pressure tester is for the standard size rad. neck, I used an old pressure reg. intended for gases etc.. put a standard valve stem-3/8 THREADED fitting on one end and used the gas nipple with flange nut. Took the fl. nut off. Had a gauge on it. Adjusted it to 16 psi output. Pulled one of the hoses right behind thermo.housing off attached it to my new toy. I then used a 3″ piece of heater hose with a plug in one end and attached it to the nipple after housing. the other end of the hose went to the head or the intake cant recall. Pumped the system to 16 psi. The cap released a little water then stopped. The gauge stayed at 16 psi. No leaks. I turned it up to 18 psi in case the gauge was off, no leaks, pressure held. The engine was cold since I came up with this spur of the moment. I’ll try again tomorrow warm. All my other experiences the blown gasket was bad enough the cylinder filled up or the pressure went down dramatically. In those cases I used my pump to rad. neck tool…….. No coolant in oil, No loss of coolant, only rough idle at normal op. temp. When you hold the throttle 50% and let right off the engine almost completely dies. This will not beat me. Any suggestions. Could the IAC be letting in a little air into the system causing all these problems???? Or intake? Also the thermo housing is attached to the lower rad hose, I am new to hondas, but I thought the lower hose went to water pump, upper hose to thermo. when the thermo opens the coolant in eng flows to top of radiator. I will go over all this again tomorrow evening THNX……
Update….. I started the car again at air temperature. Opened the heater core valve,had the AC on max, and opened the radiator cap. Revved the car up to what felt like 3000 rpm and held it until the thermostat opened and both coolant fans came on and thats when the eruption starts. Right as the thermo. opens the bubbles start out small, like less than 1/16″ DIA,and then less than say 5 secs later they get pretty big, about 1/4″-3/8th” in DIA. The stench that comes out is awful,it smells exactly like exhaust fumes and antifreeze mixed,as I mentioned before I have changed quite a few head gaskets before, and the coolant looks like brown/green/white and very agitated. I shut the engine down. Got the #1 Piston to TDC, pulled the plug and screwed a compression tester male end into the head. As I mentioned before my comp. is only rated to 125psi, pressurized it and it held. I did the same for each cylinder. I do understand that the compression is up around 200psi or so, maybe more under fire and load right? Not positive on exact compression? I also know that as the coolant heats to 185 or 195, based on thermostat, things start to expand. Not confident that 125 psi was enough,and since my coolant system pressure tester is for the standard size rad. neck, I used an old pressure reg. intended for gases etc.. put a standard valve stem-3/8 THREADED fitting on one end and used the gas nipple with flange nut. Took the fl. nut off. Had a gauge on it. Adjusted it to 16 psi output. Pulled one of the hoses right behind thermo.housing off attached it to my new toy. I then used a 3″ piece of heater hose with a plug in one end and attached it to the nipple after housing. the other end of the hose went to the head or the intake cant recall. Pumped the system to 16 psi. The cap released a little water then stopped. The gauge stayed at 16 psi. No leaks. I turned it up to 18 psi in case the gauge was off, no leaks, pressure held. The engine was cold since I came up with this spur of the moment. I’ll try again tomorrow warm. All my other experiences the blown gasket was bad enough the cylinder filled up or the pressure went down dramatically. In those cases I used my pump to rad. neck tool…….. No coolant in oil, No loss of coolant, only rough idle at normal op. temp. When you hold the throttle 50% and let right off the engine almost completely dies. This will not beat me. Any suggestions. Could the IAC be letting in a little air into the system causing all these problems???? Or intake? Also the thermo housing is attached to the lower rad hose, I am new to hondas, but I thought the lower hose went to water pump, upper hose to thermo. when the thermo opens the coolant in eng flows to top of radiator. I will go over all this again tomorrow evening THNX……
I was gonna use a radiator pressure tester, pump it up to the lbs listed on the cap, listen, then pull plugs etc… The compression tester totally slipped my mind, And I don’t have to get an adapter to fit the small *ss neck on these Honda radiators. My shop compressor is set to 125 psi. Do you think that is enough? Or should I turn it up? The only confusing part of the equation is every time I Have checked the coolant level it has never moved….. Always full!!!! No Overheating. I checked the plugs and all four looked the same, WHITE. Which means Lean on fuel Right? One more note…. The exhaust system is rusting pretty bad and we live in Eastern NC no salt on the roads. Just the occasional beach trip. The muffler is almost separated from the flange which does point to allot of condensation in the exhaust. Right?
I was gonna use a radiator pressure tester, pump it up to the lbs listed on the cap, listen, then pull plugs etc… The compression tester totally slipped my mind, And I don’t have to get an adapter to fit the small *ss neck on these Honda radiators. My shop compressor is set to 125 psi. Do you think that is enough? Or should I turn it up? The only confusing part of the equation is every time I Have checked the coolant level it has never moved….. Always full!!!! No Overheating. I checked the plugs and all four looked the same, WHITE. Which means Lean on fuel Right? One more note…. The exhaust system is rusting pretty bad and we live in Eastern NC no salt on the roads. Just the occasional beach trip. The muffler is almost separated from the flange which does point to allot of condensation in the exhaust. Right?
Almost forgot there is a Maintenance Required at the bottom of the speedometer with a small box beside it and you can see a hint of red in there but it is not very bright what is this
Almost forgot there is a Maintenance Required at the bottom of the speedometer with a small box beside it and you can see a hint of red in there but it is not very bright what is this
Thanks for the reply. Well since this is my girlfriends car, I never really paid attention to the dash lights until today after my post. I had her start the car after I changed the alternator. I asked if the service engine light ever comes on at initial start up and she told me she has never seen such a light. LOL. That confused me, so I posted the question last night. Thinking about this all day long, I got home and checked for myself. All lights illuminate at start up,(abs, service engine,oil pressure, etc….) So here are my symptoms before I do my own diagnostics test tomorrow. When engine temp. is cold she has to turn over the engine two or three times each time it fires shortly and then cuts out. This problem is intermittent. Other than that the Rpm’s are great when the engine temp. is cold. As soon as the temp.warms up the rpms drop to the point of almost cutting off. Trans. seems to stutter intermittently, she will tell me tomorrow if the temp. is cold or normal. I did see the bulletin about the wiring harness under the intake manifold rubbing the manifold causing fuse # 15 to blow. I checked the fuse it is good. The harness seemed fine when I inspected it. Also when she lets completely off the throttle the engine about cuts off then climbs to the same very low rpm. With A/C, radio,headlights, and both electric fans running, the rpms stay the same, They barely affect it. Sorry to go into so much detail but I wanted to cover all issues under all conditions. I have worked on vehicles all my life but most were carbureted. Never really liked chasing sensors and codes. I kind of want to beat this car if you know what I mean.
Thanks for the reply. Well since this is my girlfriends car, I never really paid attention to the dash lights until today after my post. I had her start the car after I changed the alternator. I asked if the service engine light ever comes on at initial start up and she told me she has never seen such a light. LOL. That confused me, so I posted the question last night. Thinking about this all day long, I got home and checked for myself. All lights illuminate at start up,(abs, service engine,oil pressure, etc….) So here are my symptoms before I do my own diagnostics test tomorrow. When engine temp. is cold she has to turn over the engine two or three times each time it fires shortly and then cuts out. This problem is intermittent. Other than that the Rpm’s are great when the engine temp. is cold. As soon as the temp.warms up the rpms drop to the point of almost cutting off. Trans. seems to stutter intermittently, she will tell me tomorrow if the temp. is cold or normal. I did see the bulletin about the wiring harness under the intake manifold rubbing the manifold causing fuse # 15 to blow. I checked the fuse it is good. The harness seemed fine when I inspected it. Also when she lets completely off the throttle the engine about cuts off then climbs to the same very low rpm. With A/C, radio,headlights, and both electric fans running, the rpms stay the same, They barely affect it. Sorry to go into so much detail but I wanted to cover all issues under all conditions. I have worked on vehicles all my life but most were carbureted. Never really liked chasing sensors and codes. I kind of want to beat this car if you know what I mean.