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Didn’t think about the code being 1-0. It was plugged in when I put it back together, when the light came on originally. After I put the new throttle body gasket on I left the air filter box off but pulled the sensor so I could leave it plugged in. I have it on the firewall, does that mean it is picking up the wrong temperature causing the engine to rev up and down? What about when it was plugged in? Could it be bad or damaged? Thanks again for the reply.
Didn’t think about the code being 1-0. It was plugged in when I put it back together, when the light came on originally. After I put the new throttle body gasket on I left the air filter box off but pulled the sensor so I could leave it plugged in. I have it on the firewall, does that mean it is picking up the wrong temperature causing the engine to rev up and down? What about when it was plugged in? Could it be bad or damaged? Thanks again for the reply.
New problem….. Went shopping and the car ran great. Pick-up was noticeably better. After going a few places, started car and the idle was surging, plus check engine light was on. The surge was the exact same surge as when I disconnected IAC while engine was running. Not the same idle issue that started all of this. I jumped the blue test conn. under dash. Only one flash, Haynes manual says O2 sensor, Your codes do not have only one number, What do I do? Auto Zone didn’t have T.B.-Int. manifold paper gasket so I ordered it,gonna pick it up today,I reused the old one which I know is a NO-NO. Also they do not carry the IAC rubber gasket, so I cleaned and put a tiny bit of oil on the old to soften it up, and reused it,also a NO-NO. Could that be my whole problem?
New problem….. Went shopping and the car ran great. Pick-up was noticeably better. After going a few places, started car and the idle was surging, plus check engine light was on. The surge was the exact same surge as when I disconnected IAC while engine was running. Not the same idle issue that started all of this. I jumped the blue test conn. under dash. Only one flash, Haynes manual says O2 sensor, Your codes do not have only one number, What do I do? Auto Zone didn’t have T.B.-Int. manifold paper gasket so I ordered it,gonna pick it up today,I reused the old one which I know is a NO-NO. Also they do not carry the IAC rubber gasket, so I cleaned and put a tiny bit of oil on the old to soften it up, and reused it,also a NO-NO. Could that be my whole problem?
Well I installed a new thermostat, cleaned the IAC valve,and cleaned the throttle body. I rented a block test from Auto Zone for just under 30 bucks. Right away I noticed a difference in the idle,it was running smoother than ever. Like I said before the throttle body and IAC were slap full of carbon build-up. They are now spotless. The engine got up to temp with ac on full blast the engine was running perfectly. I ran the block test and the fluid stayed blue. Woo Hoo. The bubbles appear to be gone as well. I am gonna say that the old thermostat was opening too late so the coolant was getting to boiling point before thermostat had fully opened. That was causing the bubbles in the system.The IAC was carboned up and not working properly. Next weekend I am gonna change the timing belt. Thanks for all the input………………. BILLYsobx from Eastern NC
Well I installed a new thermostat, cleaned the IAC valve,and cleaned the throttle body. I rented a block test from Auto Zone for just under 30 bucks. Right away I noticed a difference in the idle,it was running smoother than ever. Like I said before the throttle body and IAC were slap full of carbon build-up. They are now spotless. The engine got up to temp with ac on full blast the engine was running perfectly. I ran the block test and the fluid stayed blue. Woo Hoo. The bubbles appear to be gone as well. I am gonna say that the old thermostat was opening too late so the coolant was getting to boiling point before thermostat had fully opened. That was causing the bubbles in the system.The IAC was carboned up and not working properly. Next weekend I am gonna change the timing belt. Thanks for all the input………………. BILLYsobx from Eastern NC
Update.. Can’t do the test till Friday. I pulled the thermostat,throttle body,and pulled the plastic reservoir to check it for a leak yesterday evening. I removed the IAC valve, It was definitely full of carbon build up, as was the throttle body and the inside of the intake manifold. I removed the butterfly and the throttle spring.Cleaned everything well with CRC T.B. and INT. Manifold Spray. There was factory grease behind the linkage that the throttle cable ties into, so I added new before I reassembled it. The throttle body operates a lot better now.Cleaned the IAC valve mechanical parts, I didn’t want to mess with any of the electrical parts.The reservoir didn’t have any leaks except the cap seal. I put the thermostat in a pot of water and heated it up on the stove. When my temp. probe reached 185 the thermo. was barely even opening. In fact, the water started boiling before the thermo. even fully opened. I did notice the thermo. was definitely original equipment. With 170,000 miles is that possible, or did the first owner or owners have the dealer service it, I don’t know. Gonna do another thermo. test just for the heck of it. Definitely gonna buy an O.E. thermostat that’s for sure! A few questions that I have……………………………………………………………………………….Should I try to clean the inside of the int. manifold or remove it and clean it thoroughly, which means —Do I remove the injectors and clean them as well since I am this far into it? Every thing I clean should make the engine run better and longer right? What temp. should a thermostat start opening if it is say a 185 deg.,exactly 185 or a little before, and how fast? Now that I cleaned the IAC is that gonna make the ohms right,I haven’t checked that yet. Finally, Does it matter if the reservoir cap is sealed well? Thanks again!!!!!!!!
Update.. Can’t do the test till Friday. I pulled the thermostat,throttle body,and pulled the plastic reservoir to check it for a leak yesterday evening. I removed the IAC valve, It was definitely full of carbon build up, as was the throttle body and the inside of the intake manifold. I removed the butterfly and the throttle spring.Cleaned everything well with CRC T.B. and INT. Manifold Spray. There was factory grease behind the linkage that the throttle cable ties into, so I added new before I reassembled it. The throttle body operates a lot better now.Cleaned the IAC valve mechanical parts, I didn’t want to mess with any of the electrical parts.The reservoir didn’t have any leaks except the cap seal. I put the thermostat in a pot of water and heated it up on the stove. When my temp. probe reached 185 the thermo. was barely even opening. In fact, the water started boiling before the thermo. even fully opened. I did notice the thermo. was definitely original equipment. With 170,000 miles is that possible, or did the first owner or owners have the dealer service it, I don’t know. Gonna do another thermo. test just for the heck of it. Definitely gonna buy an O.E. thermostat that’s for sure! A few questions that I have……………………………………………………………………………….Should I try to clean the inside of the int. manifold or remove it and clean it thoroughly, which means —Do I remove the injectors and clean them as well since I am this far into it? Every thing I clean should make the engine run better and longer right? What temp. should a thermostat start opening if it is say a 185 deg.,exactly 185 or a little before, and how fast? Now that I cleaned the IAC is that gonna make the ohms right,I haven’t checked that yet. Finally, Does it matter if the reservoir cap is sealed well? Thanks again!!!!!!!!
I am going to change the timing belt, tensioner and change the water pump as well, so I will do the the block test before I get into the timing area of the engine.You are correct, I am this invested in it. If I am going to have the front of the engine apart, I don’t want to have to tear it back down again later if I find out that a cracked head/blown head gasket was the,or,part of the problem. I’m sure you gave the name of that Blue Stuff in your video,but can you refresh my memory please? Thanks again for all the help. This is a very good forum, I am glad I found. I feel I could ask about any type vehicle,and get good,informative help that would not lead me astray…. More to come later..
I am going to change the timing belt, tensioner and change the water pump as well, so I will do the the block test before I get into the timing area of the engine.You are correct, I am this invested in it. If I am going to have the front of the engine apart, I don’t want to have to tear it back down again later if I find out that a cracked head/blown head gasket was the,or,part of the problem. I’m sure you gave the name of that Blue Stuff in your video,but can you refresh my memory please? Thanks again for all the help. This is a very good forum, I am glad I found. I feel I could ask about any type vehicle,and get good,informative help that would not lead me astray…. More to come later..
Back at this evening. Thought I would start over with beginning tonight.Only got a couple hrs. to work on it.. Ran the engine around 3000rpm I think… Does it have to be exactly 3000rpm, because I haven’t checked to see if I am getting it that high, no TACH in car,I do have engine analyzer I can hook up if so. Small bubbles started coming up, the thermostat and fan kicked on, noticed condenser fan wasn’t running. I forgot to turn on the A/C. I let off the throttle and it went to normal idle, very smooth. I got in the car and set it to MAX A/C. I revved to about half throttle. and the temp. gauge rose a little higher than usual. When the thermostat opened it went down very slightly.I let off the throttle and it almost cut-off. I remembered a bad IAC valve causes this,and the thermostat could be sticking slightly. Shut it down. I waited for it to cool down. I pulled the IAC valve and checked the ohms. According to Hayne’s book,with the rotary valve type,I put negative of my multimeter on center terminal and the positive on either of the other two both should read 16-28 ohms, NOPE, barely 2 ohms. That is the idle issue when the engine gets warmed up and the A/C is wide open. It is supposed to compensate for extra loads on the engine at normal op.temp. while idling right? It is one big VACUUM LEAK! There’s # 1,2,and 3 on ERIC the CAR GUY’S video about Honda Idle Issues. Check for air in the coolant system, check for vacuum leaks, and IAC,which also is a big vacuum leak by itself. I am gonna get a new thermostat and maybe the one on there now is faulty and allowing the water to boil over just barely, so little that the coolant doesn’t leave the system.I’m also gonna get a new radiator cap. Thanx again for the help.
Back at this evening. Thought I would start over with beginning tonight.Only got a couple hrs. to work on it.. Ran the engine around 3000rpm I think… Does it have to be exactly 3000rpm, because I haven’t checked to see if I am getting it that high, no TACH in car,I do have engine analyzer I can hook up if so. Small bubbles started coming up, the thermostat and fan kicked on, noticed condenser fan wasn’t running. I forgot to turn on the A/C. I let off the throttle and it went to normal idle, very smooth. I got in the car and set it to MAX A/C. I revved to about half throttle. and the temp. gauge rose a little higher than usual. When the thermostat opened it went down very slightly.I let off the throttle and it almost cut-off. I remembered a bad IAC valve causes this,and the thermostat could be sticking slightly. Shut it down. I waited for it to cool down. I pulled the IAC valve and checked the ohms. According to Hayne’s book,with the rotary valve type,I put negative of my multimeter on center terminal and the positive on either of the other two both should read 16-28 ohms, NOPE, barely 2 ohms. That is the idle issue when the engine gets warmed up and the A/C is wide open. It is supposed to compensate for extra loads on the engine at normal op.temp. while idling right? It is one big VACUUM LEAK! There’s # 1,2,and 3 on ERIC the CAR GUY’S video about Honda Idle Issues. Check for air in the coolant system, check for vacuum leaks, and IAC,which also is a big vacuum leak by itself. I am gonna get a new thermostat and maybe the one on there now is faulty and allowing the water to boil over just barely, so little that the coolant doesn’t leave the system.I’m also gonna get a new radiator cap. Thanx again for the help.
Well just watched your video 6:30 am here. About to head off to my “JOB”,would rather play with engines and oil and grease all day, but oh well, I have seen squeeze ball tester before but never used one. I understand the principles. I guess the crack or whatever is so small it is not causing the coolant to boil into the reservoir and cause coolant loss, by the way the reservoir is cracked so if coolant does go in there the system can’t draw it back in during recirc. cycle. I will go by one of the many great parts stores after work and get one or the other. Have you ever seen an issue as mine where the coolant is not leaving the system but is definitely not right. The problem started with rough idle after warm up 6 months ago and has progressively got worst. To the point she parked and said please fix it. She has said numerous times the engine has never over-heated. And in my experiences with combustion gases in coolant system the temp would climb and climb then release or keep climbing to the point of OH ****! SHUT ER DOWN! This must be so small at this point the cap is relieving the air but not losing coolant. Thanks again….. I’ll repost this evening