Forum Replies Created
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Teddy – I appreciate the Barney-ism and felt that something legendary was worth looking into. The IR W7150 and the Milwaukee M18 Fuel 2763 have had me drooling while watching youtube demonstrations. I think the DeWalt is going to have to go!
Teddy – I appreciate the Barney-ism and felt that something legendary was worth looking into. The IR W7150 and the Milwaukee M18 Fuel 2763 have had me drooling while watching youtube demonstrations. I think the DeWalt is going to have to go!
tbone – Thanks for that link. I like that it highlights that loosening torque is really king. When you look at marketing for different wrenches, they aren’t always transparent on what’s loosening or tightening torque. The box for this DW059 states 300 ft-lbs for max torque, and the included manual shows the same, with no indication of that being loosening or tightening (attached).
Hanneman – Yes, I would certainly consider going with a 120 VAC corded impact wrench. I ran a couple extra 30A circuits to the garage when we rewired the house and the capacity is there. It would be a purchase I could take some time with and order online, so wouldn’t be limited just to whatever is close/convenient to me. Going on the notion that cordless is better than nothing, corded is better than cordless, and air is better than corded, I’m very open to investigating the corded route given my need/usage. Portability is not a deciding factor for me at all.
I tried out the drill again the next day on lug nuts with a fresh charge. Took them off fairly effortlessly and put them back on at least 80 ft-lbs (as high as my torque wrench measures). Still just feeling lukewarm on the purchase since it didn’t handle the original need and my back still aches from all muscle it took to break the bolt free.
I think my usage is fairly typical. We drive/buy used cars for daily drivers and I take care of regular scheduled maintenance items and whatever else happens to break. I leave these jobs to the professionals: exhaust work, anything needing welding, any one-time projects that would require a special hand or diagnostic tool that just makes no sense for me to own, or or any other significant repair that would make the car unusable for more than 1 day at my pace. I’ll probably be doing another J-series timing belt in 25k miles on our Odyssey when that’s due.
I like to buy things that last and have this $200 to reinvest if I return the DeWalt and can dig up a bit more to make a better informed purchase. What I don’t have is the space for a compressor, or a 3rd car to use when family is out with the 1st car and I’m stuck at home mid-project on the 2nd car with a stuck fastener.
Thanks for all the info an opinions…very helpful to hear the different points of view.
tbone – Thanks for that link. I like that it highlights that loosening torque is really king. When you look at marketing for different wrenches, they aren’t always transparent on what’s loosening or tightening torque. The box for this DW059 states 300 ft-lbs for max torque, and the included manual shows the same, with no indication of that being loosening or tightening (attached).
Hanneman – Yes, I would certainly consider going with a 120 VAC corded impact wrench. I ran a couple extra 30A circuits to the garage when we rewired the house and the capacity is there. It would be a purchase I could take some time with and order online, so wouldn’t be limited just to whatever is close/convenient to me. Going on the notion that cordless is better than nothing, corded is better than cordless, and air is better than corded, I’m very open to investigating the corded route given my need/usage. Portability is not a deciding factor for me at all.
I tried out the drill again the next day on lug nuts with a fresh charge. Took them off fairly effortlessly and put them back on at least 80 ft-lbs (as high as my torque wrench measures). Still just feeling lukewarm on the purchase since it didn’t handle the original need and my back still aches from all muscle it took to break the bolt free.
I think my usage is fairly typical. We drive/buy used cars for daily drivers and I take care of regular scheduled maintenance items and whatever else happens to break. I leave these jobs to the professionals: exhaust work, anything needing welding, any one-time projects that would require a special hand or diagnostic tool that just makes no sense for me to own, or or any other significant repair that would make the car unusable for more than 1 day at my pace. I’ll probably be doing another J-series timing belt in 25k miles on our Odyssey when that’s due.
I like to buy things that last and have this $200 to reinvest if I return the DeWalt and can dig up a bit more to make a better informed purchase. What I don’t have is the space for a compressor, or a 3rd car to use when family is out with the 1st car and I’m stuck at home mid-project on the 2nd car with a stuck fastener.
Thanks for all the info an opinions…very helpful to hear the different points of view.
Old thread, relevant question…
I’m doing similar work with J series engine timing belts (2003 Pilot, 2007 Odyssey) and have purchased the VManual. Thanks 3SheetsDiesel…if a cam pulley spins out of alignment, I’ll adjust it back in the opposite direction that it slipped.
But what if the crank ever slips out of alignment? I’ve done some light googling and some folks say turn the crank CW only, and others say you can make minor adjustments in either direction. Assuming that both cam pulleys are lined up but the crank gets bumped/misaligned, what should you do? (I suspect that once the crank drive belt pulley is taken off, as long as it is aligned, it’s difficult to spin the timing belt pulley and would likely not go anywhere…thoughts?)
Just trying to cover my bases in advance so I don’t waste any time thinking about this mid-procedure.
Old thread, relevant question…
I’m doing similar work with J series engine timing belts (2003 Pilot, 2007 Odyssey) and have purchased the VManual. Thanks 3SheetsDiesel…if a cam pulley spins out of alignment, I’ll adjust it back in the opposite direction that it slipped.
But what if the crank ever slips out of alignment? I’ve done some light googling and some folks say turn the crank CW only, and others say you can make minor adjustments in either direction. Assuming that both cam pulleys are lined up but the crank gets bumped/misaligned, what should you do? (I suspect that once the crank drive belt pulley is taken off, as long as it is aligned, it’s difficult to spin the timing belt pulley and would likely not go anywhere…thoughts?)
Just trying to cover my bases in advance so I don’t waste any time thinking about this mid-procedure.
P0420 plagued our 2002 Impala for a year. I tried lots of different things and wasted a lot of time thinking about it. What was the (easy) fix? Spark plugs. Been almost 2 months and code and CEL hasn’t come back.
I feel your pain…best of luck to you.
