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Check this out. got a wild hair and pulled my main relay and just guess what I found.
yup, bad solder joint under a 12V relay side.I’ll be re-flowing this bad boy and give it the old highway smoke test. Fingers crossed this is the cause of the stalling issue.
Will report back with results.
Have to thank ScannerDanner and EricTheCarGuy on their main relay vids.
Check this out. got a wild hair and pulled my main relay and just guess what I found.
yup, bad solder joint under a 12V relay side.I’ll be re-flowing this bad boy and give it the old highway smoke test. Fingers crossed this is the cause of the stalling issue.
Will report back with results.
Have to thank ScannerDanner and EricTheCarGuy on their main relay vids.
This issue has just been consuming my brain. I hate when things just wont work like they should.
I just checked prices on fuel pumps. Amazon had killer deal on new Bosch pump and strainer so I just ordered it. (~$60.00) when the local car parts shops wanted ~$120+ for pump alone and strainer was additional $20.00 and these were just generic brands.
I also ordered new NGK plugs and fuel pressure regulator as well just to rule those out. Opted for 1 day shipping, so we’ll see what I find when I replace these things.
I’ll post back with findings.This issue has just been consuming my brain. I hate when things just wont work like they should.
I just checked prices on fuel pumps. Amazon had killer deal on new Bosch pump and strainer so I just ordered it. (~$60.00) when the local car parts shops wanted ~$120+ for pump alone and strainer was additional $20.00 and these were just generic brands.
I also ordered new NGK plugs and fuel pressure regulator as well just to rule those out. Opted for 1 day shipping, so we’ll see what I find when I replace these things.
I’ll post back with findings.[quote=”valde” post=86797]Scan tool will so it. That’s probably easiest way.[/quote]
Thanks. I have a scan tool.. but I think it’s more like a code checker/clearer. I don’t believe its meant for live data.
I do have a OBD2 adapter for my laptop that I’ve used in the past. The challenge was finding a piece of software that worked well and didn’t cost a fortune. Will definitely explore my options.[quote=”valde” post=86797]Scan tool will so it. That’s probably easiest way.[/quote]
Thanks. I have a scan tool.. but I think it’s more like a code checker/clearer. I don’t believe its meant for live data.
I do have a OBD2 adapter for my laptop that I’ve used in the past. The challenge was finding a piece of software that worked well and didn’t cost a fortune. Will definitely explore my options.[quote=”valde” post=86788]Simple test that comes to my mind is to see what O2 sensor 1 reads at full throttle. If it less than 0,5V its fuel related.[/quote]
Thank you!
I will work on a way to test this out and report back my findings.[quote=”valde” post=86788]Simple test that comes to my mind is to see what O2 sensor 1 reads at full throttle. If it less than 0,5V its fuel related.[/quote]
Thank you!
I will work on a way to test this out and report back my findings.[quote=valde]Maybe fuel pump? … if this then everything can be explained by fuel pump. [/quote]
Thanks for your response, Valde. Fuel pump is on my list of suspicions. Are they known for intermittent failures? I’m still not clear on the meaning of white spark plugs and if that really indicates a lean condition. If lean, I would also suspect fuel pump is not producing the appropriate fuel pressure or could be the filter is really clogged. I don’t know how to rule this out being that this is intermittent. The only thing I think I can do is pressure test on the fuel rail, but I don’t know how a tester would hook up when Honda doesn’t supply a Schrader valve to tap into on the rail.
[quote=valde]What do you mean by clunky start up? It makes clunky sound but starts right away? Or it starts kind of clunky firing not firing and then starting (and while doing that makes noise) … [/quote]
Sometimes.. Not all the time it seems a noticeable “clunk” is heard when it turns over. Almost like the motor moves in the engine bay. It doesn’t have any problem starting and seems to fire every time it’s tried. It just kind of clunks. Maybe a video might capture it. I’ll see if I can get one, post it somewhere and link to it.
But at this point with my research, I am suspecting fuel delivery (fuel pump and/or integrated fuel filter/sock.) or I have seen people with similar issues saying they’ve replaced the ignition control module (ICM) within their distributor OR replaced the entire distributor assembly.
I am more than happy replacing fuel pump, ICM or distributor only if it’s needed. I don’t have the cash to just throw parts at this to rule things out. Ideally I would like to rule out which is the culprit through diagnosis of some sort and just replace that part, but I guess I need some help.
Then again, the issue could be none of these things. I just don’t know.
I’ve thought of paying a Honda Dealership to diag it, but then again I’ve had them do diag for me about 12 years ago on a 1989 Honda Prelude I had at the time that had issues with running too rich and failing emissions (when cold). I wanted to have it adjusted to not run so rich and because it had the dual side-draft carb setup and no fancy PGM-FI, they basically said they didn’t know, had it for a week and charged me $90, told me to buy a new car and sent me on my way.
Thanks again for your response
[quote=valde]Maybe fuel pump? … if this then everything can be explained by fuel pump. [/quote]
Thanks for your response, Valde. Fuel pump is on my list of suspicions. Are they known for intermittent failures? I’m still not clear on the meaning of white spark plugs and if that really indicates a lean condition. If lean, I would also suspect fuel pump is not producing the appropriate fuel pressure or could be the filter is really clogged. I don’t know how to rule this out being that this is intermittent. The only thing I think I can do is pressure test on the fuel rail, but I don’t know how a tester would hook up when Honda doesn’t supply a Schrader valve to tap into on the rail.
[quote=valde]What do you mean by clunky start up? It makes clunky sound but starts right away? Or it starts kind of clunky firing not firing and then starting (and while doing that makes noise) … [/quote]
Sometimes.. Not all the time it seems a noticeable “clunk” is heard when it turns over. Almost like the motor moves in the engine bay. It doesn’t have any problem starting and seems to fire every time it’s tried. It just kind of clunks. Maybe a video might capture it. I’ll see if I can get one, post it somewhere and link to it.
But at this point with my research, I am suspecting fuel delivery (fuel pump and/or integrated fuel filter/sock.) or I have seen people with similar issues saying they’ve replaced the ignition control module (ICM) within their distributor OR replaced the entire distributor assembly.
I am more than happy replacing fuel pump, ICM or distributor only if it’s needed. I don’t have the cash to just throw parts at this to rule things out. Ideally I would like to rule out which is the culprit through diagnosis of some sort and just replace that part, but I guess I need some help.
Then again, the issue could be none of these things. I just don’t know.
I’ve thought of paying a Honda Dealership to diag it, but then again I’ve had them do diag for me about 12 years ago on a 1989 Honda Prelude I had at the time that had issues with running too rich and failing emissions (when cold). I wanted to have it adjusted to not run so rich and because it had the dual side-draft carb setup and no fancy PGM-FI, they basically said they didn’t know, had it for a week and charged me $90, told me to buy a new car and sent me on my way.
Thanks again for your response