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Yeah I’ve looked in to the V8 route and it’s just not cost effective. a basic conversion over to V8 is around 4K. With some of the additional research I have done, may end up going with the direct bolt in 3.4 crate GM has. It’s 160 HP which is where I wanted to be and is the same 60 degree engine as I have now, just stroked out a bit. I came across it monday and I am excited. Thank you for the reply though. If I ever decide to do another S10 It will be a 350 conversion. Again Thanks for the input.
Yeah I’ve looked in to the V8 route and it’s just not cost effective. a basic conversion over to V8 is around 4K. With some of the additional research I have done, may end up going with the direct bolt in 3.4 crate GM has. It’s 160 HP which is where I wanted to be and is the same 60 degree engine as I have now, just stroked out a bit. I came across it monday and I am excited. Thank you for the reply though. If I ever decide to do another S10 It will be a 350 conversion. Again Thanks for the input.
Yes I did read the whole post to start. The problem comes in with the wording. Manifold means something completely different to me then it may to you. To help you understand where I was coming from. I will direct you to this link. I apologize for any confusion. I hope this helps explain my comment.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_difference_between_exhaust_manifolds_and_headers
Yes I did read the whole post to start. The problem comes in with the wording. Manifold means something completely different to me then it may to you. To help you understand where I was coming from. I will direct you to this link. I apologize for any confusion. I hope this helps explain my comment.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_difference_between_exhaust_manifolds_and_headers
Many shops can do a PMI check up and let you know what should be a concern. PMI stands for Preventative maintenance inspection. Some of the things they look at are tires for wear, brakes, filters, fluid color and level, timing belts, accessory belts, fluid leaks, suspension, looseness in steering, and various other items. Many shops give these inspections for free or for a very nominal fee. (Most I have seen in my area is 35 dollars.) Have it done at the dealer or a repair shop, not your local quick lube. Knowing the neons pretty well, if it where me, I would make sure the timing belt and water pump where inspected closely. This is an interference engine. Meaning if the timing belt breaks, or slips a tooth, it will cause serious internal damage to the motor. Also prior to your trip, I would take some time and run some good fuel system cleaner in the engine. other wise see what your local repair shop recommends. All in all I think you will be good for the trip.
Many shops can do a PMI check up and let you know what should be a concern. PMI stands for Preventative maintenance inspection. Some of the things they look at are tires for wear, brakes, filters, fluid color and level, timing belts, accessory belts, fluid leaks, suspension, looseness in steering, and various other items. Many shops give these inspections for free or for a very nominal fee. (Most I have seen in my area is 35 dollars.) Have it done at the dealer or a repair shop, not your local quick lube. Knowing the neons pretty well, if it where me, I would make sure the timing belt and water pump where inspected closely. This is an interference engine. Meaning if the timing belt breaks, or slips a tooth, it will cause serious internal damage to the motor. Also prior to your trip, I would take some time and run some good fuel system cleaner in the engine. other wise see what your local repair shop recommends. All in all I think you will be good for the trip.
It would almost sound to me like a ring issue. the rings need to have an off set when they are installed on the pistons and when the pistons are installed in to the engine. Other wise you can have mild blow by. how much bottom end work did you have done when the new pistons where installed? Of course you said this issue started prior to the pistons being installed. I would look at the rockers not being tightened correctly. Or faulty hydraulic lifters. In fact faulty or weak lifters could explain all the symptoms. I would look at the lifters.
It would almost sound to me like a ring issue. the rings need to have an off set when they are installed on the pistons and when the pistons are installed in to the engine. Other wise you can have mild blow by. how much bottom end work did you have done when the new pistons where installed? Of course you said this issue started prior to the pistons being installed. I would look at the rockers not being tightened correctly. Or faulty hydraulic lifters. In fact faulty or weak lifters could explain all the symptoms. I would look at the lifters.
Ok So see if this helps. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the side opposite the side you’re working on to fully exposed the tie rod socket. (as the rack and pinion are out of the car just press on the right side of the assembly to extend the left side all the way out.) Remove the locking pin by striking it sharply with a punch and hammer. Place an adjustable wrench snugly over the geared/notched portion of the steering rack for grip. Then use another wrench to remove the inner socket lock nut by turning it counterclockwise. Unscrew the inner socket assembly from the outer tie rod end. Install the new inner socket by reversing the above procedures.
Ok So see if this helps. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the side opposite the side you’re working on to fully exposed the tie rod socket. (as the rack and pinion are out of the car just press on the right side of the assembly to extend the left side all the way out.) Remove the locking pin by striking it sharply with a punch and hammer. Place an adjustable wrench snugly over the geared/notched portion of the steering rack for grip. Then use another wrench to remove the inner socket lock nut by turning it counterclockwise. Unscrew the inner socket assembly from the outer tie rod end. Install the new inner socket by reversing the above procedures.
I can’t quite tell from the picture. But I think you need to remove it from inside the socket. A few more picture would be helpful. Also what is the year make and model of the vehicle?
I can’t quite tell from the picture. But I think you need to remove it from inside the socket. A few more picture would be helpful. Also what is the year make and model of the vehicle?
If you can find a set up, I would go with some headers for better exhaust flow. It doesn’t make much sense to set it up for more air and fuel if you have no way of getting it out of the engine once it is in. Allowing the engine to breath easier in most cases is good for a 10% to 15% increase in over all power on both the top and bottom end. Look in to a better intake manifold and headers. I think you will be happy you did.
If you can find a set up, I would go with some headers for better exhaust flow. It doesn’t make much sense to set it up for more air and fuel if you have no way of getting it out of the engine once it is in. Allowing the engine to breath easier in most cases is good for a 10% to 15% increase in over all power on both the top and bottom end. Look in to a better intake manifold and headers. I think you will be happy you did.