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First we need to determine if the problem is the heater core or a dampener issue.
Since you have just filled and purged the air from the cooling system an easy test is to determine if the heater hoses are both hot to the touch, or close to the same temperature if you have a non-contact temperature gun.
The outlet from the heater core should be a little cooler since it will dissipate heat to the passenger compartment when the heat is on.
If one is hot and the other is cool there might be an obstruction in the heater core preventing heat from working correctly.
Please provide the results from your finding to determine if dampener diagnosis is necessary.
Welding the steel back together would be the ideal repair.
I only suggest the drill and screw method as a DIY type of repair and have completed this on a friends car a few years back. They happened to drive over a high curb pulling out of a bank drive-thru and messed up the pinch weld under the passenger side. Since it was not a jack point I also added some 1″ x 1″ 90 degree angle aluminum on each side for additional rigidity.
Give an independent or muffler shop a try for the welding; they will need to remove any paint on the steel before welding. Since under the car any good primer and spray paint should do the job to hold rust at bay on the new welding.
[quote=”Gucci Mane” post=150808][quote=”BigDanIL279″ post=150605]
Now why a guy with a disability cannot drive a Camaro I will never understand. I am a big kid, 6-3 and the big doors do make it easier for me to enter and exit the vehicle. Oh, and it looks good, handles great, and I love fast cars.[/quote]
Maybe I worded myself wrong. It’s just most people who are wheelchair bound realistically are going to have a tough time using something like a super low sport coupe as their daily driver, and for this gentlemen show signs of server muscle atrophy. I’m simply dumbfounded that he’s found a way to make such an inconvenient car work for him daily. I mean I have nothing hindering me, but Jesus Christ getting in and out of a camaro is no easy task :P[/quote]
You are exactly correct it is no easy task to pull and push myself up out of the Camaro and I am thankful every time I can accomplish enter/exit my vehicle. It keeps reminding me everyday the physical demands I must place upon myself to not lose more strength and balance than I already have. I have fallen trying to get out of my car, so I take my time and pick myself up off the ground and keep going. Is there a day I can see myself in a chair? I hope not, but if I do a least I know it was not without a fight and I attempted to push myself everyday to prevent the disease from winning.
There is the old saying “You should not judge a man until you have walked in his shoes” and I would not wish that upon anyone; Peripheral Neuropathy is a slow, painful and evil condition I would never wish anyone to experience.
[quote=”Hockeyclark” post=149332]I can really tell you is that I am envious. I wish I had a brake lathe. I have six rotors sitting in my garage that I could probably have machined but I don’t have a lathe and I am too lazy to take them to a machine shop. As I think you discussed in another video, almost nobody really machines rotors anymore for various reasons. Rotors are cheaper now, and it costs more to machine because of labor. I don’t think this has much to do with it, but my father says that rotors and drums are made from junk metal now and so they warp faster and that they are “just junk.” I’m not sure if that’s true, but it sure seems to me like most rotors warp pretty quick nowadays. I had old rotors on my 81′ El Camino and they never warped. I put newer drilled and slotted rotors on the front and they are just beginning to warp. Maybe he has a point, maybe not. All I know is I wish I had a brake lathe. Keep lovin that shop, Eric. You can do just about anything with it.
Nick[/quote]
I have found EBC rotors to be he best on the market today; they are made in the UK and machined in the UK or the US and are made with good quality steel. They do cost more, but I have not had one warp on the last three vehicles installed them on; Mustang, Camaro and my Mother’s Crown Vic.
The styles include the stock replacements and slotted rotors mated with EBC pads green and red. My second choice is NAPA’s premium rotors, they are made in China, but seem to be decent quality; installed on both my father’s 2012 Impala and step-mother’s 2005 Impala. Mated with NAPA premium pads (made in Canada) and hardware.Good point, I did neglect to ask if the engine had been resealed.
Conventional 5W30 is the proper oil to use and I would suggest using some Marvel Mystery Oil in the mix.
If you should purchase a different car is dictated by your ability to tolerate the inconvenience of all the repairs present and future.
The biggest red flag to me is there seems to be a lot of issues that are continuously nickel and dime your wallet, eating up your time, and leave you wondering what is next; break lines, fuel pump, etc…?
If I were in your position, it would be time to move on; a newer vehicle should be more reliable, have better MPG and updated safety features.
This current vehicle also sounds as if sooner or later it is going to leave you stuck somewhere due to some unexpected system failure.
I would suggest using a vise on the jack point(s) such as this one from Harbor Freight – http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-portable-carpenters-vise-95203.html to hold the different pieces of steel together.
1. Center the vise long edge over the jack point and tighten to squeeze the different pieces of steel together
2. Once together drill a couple of holes; one on each side of the vise large enough for the hardware to be used.
3. Install a stainless steel #8-32 screw, with flat washers on both sides and tighten a locking nut (nylon insert).
4. Remove the vise
5. Rotate the vise 90 degrees and install again short edge centered over the jack point.
6. Repeat drilling holes on each side of the vise and install hardware to keep the steel together.
7. Remove the vise.
With the steel held together with the screws/nuts this should permit use of the OEM scissor jack.
If desired use a rust neutralizer to slow the progression, prime and paint desired color.
Does this sound like a possible fix?
It is difficult to determine how deformed the area is with the picture provided.
rockauto.com has an OSC 1682 radiator for under $100; automatic & transmission
OSC does not deviate from the OEM design on radiators unless it provides more cooling capacity.
It also includes the transmission cooler connections and I think new cap.
The other one to consider is a Spectra Premium CU2101 also under $100; automatic & manual transmission
The Mopar parts website does not even go back to 1999 to look up the radiator
If I had to replace the radiator in my car I would go OSC.
Try this to determine the circuit bleeding over to power the parking lights:
1. Pull the parking lights fuse
2. Have someone or something hold the brake pedal down so the front parking lights stay on.
3. Remove each fuse one at a time until the lights go off; if they stay on insert the fuse back in and go to the next
4. Once the circuit is identified determine where the circuits are crossed.
5. Make necessary repairs
6. Install fuse from step 3 and test; if good install fuse from step 1.
Repeat for all other devices not working correctly.
I think 5W-30 is the recommended oil for your engine, it sound like the upper head assembly and valves are starved for oil.
I would try changing the oil to 5W-30; maybe a full synthetic Pennzoil or Castrol.
Have you had much luck using a fuel stabilizer in the tank to nullify the affects of ethanol blended gasoline?
I use Marvel Mystery Oil in my vehicle; 4 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel.
I have a Big Red 3 Ton combo, purchased from PepBoys about a year ago.
It includes a 3 Ton low profile floor jack and two 3 Ton jacks stands.
On sale for $99, ordered online for in-store pickup for an additional 20% off.
It is a little tight on the release to lower, but getting better with every use, and the jack stands work great.
I can relate to how you feel, although not in a chair I do have Peripheral Neuropathy and can understand how you feel. It is not about what you cannot do, but what you can do. I grew up in a DIY household so working on your own car was just how things were done starting at about 5 years old helping my father anyway I could.
For me there is no better form of therapy than working on my car or doing small customizations to better serve my needs.
Now why a guy with a disability cannot drive a Camaro I will never understand. I am a big kid, 6-3 and the big doors do make it easier for me to enter and exit the vehicle. Oh, and it looks good, handles great, and I love fast cars.
