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Arnold Oil Company per their website is the OE supplier.
http://www.arnoldoil.com/Divisions/OESupplier.aspx
It is difficult to find information on the manufacturer of Motorcraft oil filters; it seems the belief is Purolator is the OE supplier.
When I owned a S197 V6 I ran Pennzoil conventional motor oil, 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil, and Fram oil filters. My valve covers also leaked, but an occasional torque of the bolts to specification seemed to slow down the flow. One other problem I had with the 4.0L engine is the thermostat housing cracking creating a slow leak.
Also, if anyone is interested in the dexos oil brands and suppliers – http://www.centerforqa.com/dexos-brand1/
Brake fluid should not leak from any part of the system.
Braking works via hydraulic pressure or fluid compressed at the master cylinder which pushes the piston against the brake pad and rotor each time the brake pedal is pressed.
The caliper needs a rebuild or replacement; if they are the same age it might be a good idea to rebuild or replace both sides.
The system will also need to bleeding once reinstalled.
There is a switch attached to the brake pedal that activates the lights when pressed.
Some basic troubleshooting to determine the overall health of the system and/or wiring and if the switch is functioning correctly. Also, some basic questions about recent events/changes made to the vehicle.
1. What has changed recently on the vehicle just before the problem started?2. Have all the fuses been checked to be good and fully seated in the socket?
3. Was the vehicle recently in the body shop for repair to the rear of the vehicle?
4. Have any modifications been made to the electrical system?
a. Installed a trailer hitch and tapped the electrical system for the trailer lights?
b. If a trailer hitch is already installed; have the connectors been inspected for any possible shorts due to corrosion?
c. Have the tail/brake bulbs been replaced lately?
d. If replaced; are the bulbs correct?
e. Have the incandescent bulbs been replaced with LEDs?5. When using the turn signals does the indicator inside hyper-flash or fast blinking?
6. What happens when the hazard switch is activated?
7. Do any of the bulb sockets have damage or corrosion due to water intrusion?
8. Are all the lenses in good condition?
9. What is the status of the front parking/turn bulbs during the testing; items 5 – 8?
A drilled and slotted rotor will help dissipate heat and expel brake dust created from braking.
A couple of other items to consider before spending the extra coin on the EBC rotors:
1. Were the lug nut torqued to the OEM specification? Over torqueing will cause the rotors to warp over time.
2. Is the warped rotor only on one side? It is possible the caliper is dragging due to corrosion on the guide pins causing the rotors to over heat and warp.
How does the steering wheel feel when accelerating from a stop? Does it feel similar to when the brakes are applied with the left right pulsing?
I was on the fence myself when the rotors on my 2013 Camaro needed replacing; I opted for the EBC stock replacement rotors and Red pads since it is a daily driver and not driven on the track. They provide great braking and I know the rotors are made in the UK and not China.
If your budget permits this is a great time to inspect and replace the belt and tensioner if needed.
I would also recommend charging the battery if possible; please disconnect from the vehicle while changing the alternator to prevent damage to other components.
It is possible the alternator is done, but I would check to make sure the belt is not slipping before pulling it off your car/truck.
In most cases the charging light would also be illuminated in the instrument cluster; did you happen to notice if illuminated?
A properly operating alternator will have an output voltage between 13.5 – 15VDC.
I still have one ’75 Pontiac 6.6L in the family and she runs best with ACDelco plugs; base copper are good and Platinum even better. I also have tried to go with less expensive cap and wires to just replace them a couple of weeks later with ACDelco and they made a world of difference.
Will the shorter bolt be able to handle the stress of an emergency steering situation?
Also, what grade bolt is the 2-3/4 found, and does it match/exceed the one installed by the OEM?
Is it worth taking the risk with your life and/or your passengers?
I would order the OEM bolt myself just to be on the safe side.