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My Camaro is also 97500 for normal service and 45000 for severe. I have been toying with the idea of dropping the pan to change the eight (8) quarts and filter. I am fortunate that the fill hole is on the passenger side top of the transmission. If I measure the amount collected when dropping the pan to put the same amount back in using a pump and hose to fill the ATF; the same technique used in the rear differential gear lube replacement.
The only issue I see is having a collection container large enough to capture the entire area under the ATF pan, but i think a large aluminum roasting pan might be large enough for collecting.
If careful I think an experienced DIY would be able to do the filter and ATF change.
The owner’s manual will provide the recommended change interval of the ATF fluid. It will be necessary to determine if you use the vehicle for ‘normal’ or ‘severe’ service which have different intervals.
In my humble opinion; if you tow a trailer on a regular basis this is a severe service interval vehicle.
The 2010 Camaro Service Manual – https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amds04s16bp01qj/AACeAQMLDAWzBRPxIFbvw3Bsa?dl=0
File: _G5C DIY Bible.zip or find the individual system PDF file
Link expires after 30 Days
Without specifics on the vehicle I can only say that some vehicles require the clips be replaced if the A-Pillar is removed or the clips installed in the pillar first before putting the cover on.
I agree with Tomh, it could be anyone of these items he has listed. .
Has the transmission fluid been changed recently or condition checked? It might be need a top-off or for a pan drop and filter change.
Has the engine or transmission ever been subjected to a flush by a quick change retailer?
I owned a 2005 V6 and had the same experience from the day of purchase. The skip reduced if I put some weight over the rear axle to try and plant the rear end on the ground. Since the GT has a more stiff rear suspension than the V6 you might need to add more than I did to gain confidence it is not going to kick out on bumps. My magic weight was four (4) bags of Kittylitter but your mileage may vary since a GT rides a bit different.
If your round year daily driver the extra weight helps with traction in the winter months in the snow.
1. Switch turns Power Mode on/off; higher RPMs in each gear
2 Permits a start in 2nd gear and will hold until shift into drive.
There might be an exhaust restriction in the CATs since you mention they are cooked.
Eric has great videos on diagnosing this problem: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/fuel-and-emissions/519-how-to-diagnose-exhaust-restrictions
Everyone has an opinion, but in my experience you get what you pay for when it comes to starters and alternators. If financially possible go for a new or remanufactured starter versus a rebuilt one.
A NAPA new is $154.00 – http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Starter-New/_/R-NNE4N5135_0478455789
They do not state if it is imported or made in North America, but it does carry a lifetime warranty to the original owner.
I once replaced an alternator with one from Trak Auto (remember them?) in my ’92 Lumina and it would die every 6-8 months, and they would replace it with another cheap alternator. After the fourth one I spent a little more for a NAPA and it lasted 4+ years until I traded it off for the next vehicle. On the plus side I got the time down to 15 minutes to change the alternator on that 3.1L engine.
You might want to carry a hammer with you until changed; if you turn the key and nothing happens, use the hammer and tap the housing and try starting again. Also, since winter is on the way have the battery load tested at the auto part store when there.
Is it also possible the number of vehicles totaled by insurance companies due to flooding caused by hurricanes and other tropical storms have eliminated a large number of vehicles destined for the secondary market?
Anyone have a similar thought?
First apologies my intentions are not to hijack the thread, but after reading I have a question regarding the heat transfer from the cylinders.
As more modern engines are cast aluminum blocks versus cast iron would the percentage of heat to work still hold at 75:25?
Since aluminum is a better conductor of heat does the same ratio still apply, or are they able to burn a bit higher to increase the ratio to 70:30 and get more HP?
As a DIY person when working on my vehicle I will stick with my made in USA Snap-on, Armstrong, Klein and Craftsman tools from the ’90s when doing regular maintenance.
In an emergency I fall back on the trunk tools consisting of HF, Husky and HDX branded; China made good enough tools to get home. If they get stolen out of my car it is maybe a $100 loss versus thousands of dollars for the equivalent professional grade tools.
All the different grade tools do have a target market from professional grade down to cheap getting started with tools. A person acquires tools over a lifetime usually starting out with a cheap brand and as the years go on and income increases the quality of the tools purchased also increases.
In the beginning a person would have a hard time spending $10 on a sock when the same $10 will buy a full set of 9 sockets at HF. When using the HF socket and it breaks vs an Armstrong socket getting the fastener off on the first attempt it is then the value of spending the $10 is realized.
I do not believe it is fair to scrutinize the brand of tools in the box, but admire the ingenuity of the owner to use what he/she has on hand to solve the problem.