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smoked cleared up, it was just because shes cold natured. shes running great. no more smoke unless its cold outside.
https://youtu.be/Qw47w-9h0dg here is the link.
car is up and running again!, she purrs like a kitten, i have video of it, will upload it to youtube so anyone can see it and the car too.
Update on this as i call it PBG project blue ghost, car is put back together, just need to check/fill fluids, soon she will be ready to start after this long 2 week project. i will post a video on youtube so anyone that wants to check it out will be able to. Sucks that im working today so wont be able to start her until sunday. im so excited and ready to hear her run and purr like a kitten like she once did.
here are pics i took with the carb mocked into place and the line hooked up as it would look. I.m looking on there site now to see one that matches mine.
I know right? everyone that sees the car and asks what it has, i just pop the hood and the look on there faces tells the tale. either shock or in awe that it has a 350 Rocket in there. Yea lifting the head out to replace it was fun to say the least, granted i pulled a move that eric talked about, if i can get the bolts loose on something pull it as a whole and work on it out of the car. So after spraying the exhaust bolts with pb blast and wd-40 rust penetrate and letting it soak before i pulled it off the car, i was able to ave the bolts and use them to get new ones. AS for why im doing just ONE? i did tests on both sides and took the stethoscope that you can hear whats wrong with different parts of the engine, driver side is nice and quiet, while this side, passenger side i heard some springs/valves that didnt sound right. so that is why. Just trying to find a replacement metal fuel line from the pump to carb is proving to be a challenge. Found a place that makes them, but the one they have listed on ebay, doesn’t come close to what i need. so i wil return it and contact them with pics of mine saying this is what i need.
here is a update on this, i started Sunday and got it all removed and as of last night, the new head on and followed the proper steps to achieving the final torque. i’m going to try to ad pics of the progress on here so you guys and Eric the car guy can see them. I will be making a slideshow of this and posting it on youtube. been smooth sailing, and all uphill from here. soon it will be back together and be cruising again. During this i’ve taken my time and IIRC eric mentioned taking pics of the project your working on for reference points, and i took a LOT of pic, but main thing is to take your time and it will get done. like they say Rome wasn’t built in a day! lol. And my cordless impact gun i have has earned its keep during the removal of the head bolts…
I have the brake issue fixed, turns out the remaned brake M/C was bad and needed a new one. shop replaced it/bled the brakes for $90, and did a front end alignment since i have new tires for my buick rally rims for $60. i’m glad im able to drive it again. Once i have the cylinder head replaced( I will be doing that myself) If anyone has any tips or advice when i do that is welcomed. I have almost all the parts for that. Thanks for all that chimed in on there help and advice, i will be posting again in here when i have a problem.
I have the brake issue fixed, turns out the remaned brake M/C was bad and needed a new one. shop replaced it/bled the brakes for $90, and did a front end alignment since i have new tires for my buick rally rims for $60. i’m glad im able to drive it again. Once i have the cylinder head replaced( I will be doing that myself) If anyone has any tips or advice when i do that is welcomed. I have almost all the parts for that. Thanks for all that chimed in on there help and advice, i will be posting again in here when i have a problem.
since i’m not bleeding the brakes right and my one man brake bleeder vacuum isn’t working, even though money is tight and didn’t want to take it to a mechanic, i will and figure out the rest afterwards. i have a used prop valve, have yet to install it as uncertain of its condition. I’m not trying to be rude or sound like an ass, if it came off that way sorry in advance. Just at my wits end of what is causing this on my car.
since i’m not bleeding the brakes right and my one man brake bleeder vacuum isn’t working, even though money is tight and didn’t want to take it to a mechanic, i will and figure out the rest afterwards. i have a used prop valve, have yet to install it as uncertain of its condition. I’m not trying to be rude or sound like an ass, if it came off that way sorry in advance. Just at my wits end of what is causing this on my car.
right, i saw in ETCG video about the calipers and hoses so i was like ill check the flex hoses, they were like 4-5 bucks a piece so i replaced those and bled the fronts with my mightyvac bleeder and i was able to get some fluid through it and then started to go clear, meaning the good fluid was coming through. stopped and started the car and tried them, but went to the floor. so i did the bleeding and trying for like and hour and felt like i was making progress, but not a firm pedal where used to when you apply the brakes.
right, i saw in ETCG video about the calipers and hoses so i was like ill check the flex hoses, they were like 4-5 bucks a piece so i replaced those and bled the fronts with my mightyvac bleeder and i was able to get some fluid through it and then started to go clear, meaning the good fluid was coming through. stopped and started the car and tried them, but went to the floor. so i did the bleeding and trying for like and hour and felt like i was making progress, but not a firm pedal where used to when you apply the brakes.
Ok to those that asked about if the caliper bleeder screws are on the bottom? no there in the proper location on the top and know there on the proper side. Yes i know i have brakes but no fronts, because when i move it in the driveway the fronts don’t stop but the rear locks up. So i have plenty of rear braking. I’ve replaced the brake booster check valve and it helped some, but still don’t have front braking. when i get the bigger brake booster and re bleed the LF caliper i will know more on what i have. prior to having these issues and when i had brakes i could tap the fronts and it would drop the front and i could stop almost on a dime so to speak. Also not sure if i mentioned this but after bleeding the front and turing the car on and checking the pedal travel and go to see if i can move the rotor, it wont move until i crack the bleeder screw and bleed the brakes. So seeing that i may have manual brakes, but with the booster being so small it may not be big enough to release the pads.
Ok to those that asked about if the caliper bleeder screws are on the bottom? no there in the proper location on the top and know there on the proper side. Yes i know i have brakes but no fronts, because when i move it in the driveway the fronts don’t stop but the rear locks up. So i have plenty of rear braking. I’ve replaced the brake booster check valve and it helped some, but still don’t have front braking. when i get the bigger brake booster and re bleed the LF caliper i will know more on what i have. prior to having these issues and when i had brakes i could tap the fronts and it would drop the front and i could stop almost on a dime so to speak. Also not sure if i mentioned this but after bleeding the front and turing the car on and checking the pedal travel and go to see if i can move the rotor, it wont move until i crack the bleeder screw and bleed the brakes. So seeing that i may have manual brakes, but with the booster being so small it may not be big enough to release the pads.
