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+1 on 619DioFan‘s recommendations. Also, check on the condition of the spark plugs (especially for cylinder #1). Good luck and keep us posted.
For machined rotors, the surface of the freshly cut rotor should have a non-directional finish for its surface . This is accomplished through the “light” circular sanding of the rotor after it has been cut. Also, for reduced brake noise, I was also taught to chamfer the ends of the brake pads themselves (if they did not come this way). This also helps to reduce noise when the brake pad comes in contact with the rotor. Good luck and keep us posted.
Hi SpawnedX,
I took a listen on the youtube link (thanks). It almost sounds like an external exhaust leak, that quiets down pretty quick. Or maybe a heat shield on the exhaust system that is just loose enough to provide a rattle noise until the vibrations quiet down (as the engine rpms settle down after initial start-up).
Good luck and keep us posted.
Hi guitarranger11,
(and “hi” to everyone else, I’m finally back)
Sorry to hear the issues you are experiencing. When you replaced the front brake lines, did you need to flare the ends of the brake line? Depending on the connection, either a single flare or double flare would be required. I would re-check all the connection points on the work performed so far.
Also, from your last post, it sounds like you are working on someone elses vehicle. A previous brake-line leak may have already been present, and you didn’t know about it. Or, a new leak in part of the “old” brake lines could have just developed. Typically when one brake line rusts through and starts to leak, all the brake lines need to be replaced (front and back).
Good luck and keep us posted.
Hi guitarranger11,
(and “hi” to everyone else, I’m finally back)
Sorry to hear the issues you are experiencing. When you replaced the front brake lines, did you need to flare the ends of the brake line? Depending on the connection, either a single flare or double flare would be required. I would re-check all the connection points on the work performed so far.
Also, from your last post, it sounds like you are working on someone elses vehicle. A previous brake-line leak may have already been present, and you didn’t know about it. Or, a new leak in part of the “old” brake lines could have just developed. Typically when one brake line rusts through and starts to leak, all the brake lines need to be replaced (front and back).
Good luck and keep us posted.
Hi mike186abl,
There should be some on-line sources that you can take advantage of. Try the Michigan on-line Chilton’s resource.
website: elibrary.mel.org
Click on “MeL database” icon, and then click on the “ChiltonLibrary.com” linkLogin: C4535896486
Good luck and keep us posted.
+1 on ytram‘s post. A special tool for removal of the inner tie-rod can also make this job a lot easier. Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks Rick for the advice. As this was my parent’s vehicle, I was trying to figure out what was causing the electrical draw during my New Years break. I have had to go back home now, so I won’t have any more updates for a while. This was my first parasitic draw diagnosis, and while I have not found the exact issue, there is a sense of accomplishment from the initial troubleshooting performed. I also have a better appreciation for the efforts it might take in pinpointing where a parasitic draw is coming from. Thanks again everyone.
Well, I did some internet research and found someone with a very similar issue to what I currently have.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/clus … ss-640614/
Looks like this is a good starting point. I’ll keep everyone posted. If anything else comes to mind, please let me know. Thanks again.
Hi Trainguy058,
Since this vibration occurred after the transmission replacement, I would definitely review the engine and transmission mounts for properly function. Hopefully it is as simple as a loose mount. Looking forward to your updates. Keep us posted.
Hi khwanjail,
If you have access to a scan tool with live data, check what the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor and air thermistor sensor indicate as well. An incorrect reading from either one of those sensors could throw off the air/fuel ratio, especially at colder temperatures when a richer mixture is needed. Good luck and keep us posted.
Hi redfury,
What code(s) did you get please? Also, is it known what O2 sensor needs attention? When working from under the vehicle, do you have the vehicle raised up at all? I know sometimes a mirror can help too, especially when working in tight areas. I am looking forward to other’ posts, as well as hearing your progress. Keep us posted.
Hi platta,
Welcome to the forum. In your post, is the car getting too much gas, and that is what you mean by “flood”? I presume this is a standard transmission, which involves the driver physically shifting gears. Keep us posted.
Is your check engine light on at all? A scan tool can be used to check for any codes currently stored in the computer. If you have access to a scan tool with live data, I would suggest checking the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor for proper reading and operation. A cold engine will need a richer air/fuel mixture to start with. As the engine warms up, the engine will lean-out the air/fuel mixture based on various sensor input. The ECT helps provide vital information. If the ECT is still sending a “cold” temperature to the ECU, then the computer will continue to provide a rich air/fuel mixture.
The scan tool with live data can also display the short term and long term fuel trim. After the car warms up, does it start up right away if you turn the car off?
Just wanted to add that a pinched or restricted gas line can cause similar issues. Usually the gas line is not properly placed back in position when a previously dropped gas tank is being repositioned back into place. The restriction will ultimately cause the gas line to collapse on itself, and cut off gas to the engine.
Good luck and keep us posted.