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Hi Toxic,
Don’t have a lot of experience with this make/model. I am sure some of our other forum members as well as EricTheCarGuy do. Sounds like the switch itself may not be making proper contact when pressed to turn the lights off (and lower the covers).
I did find a person on eBay selling them for ~$10.00 shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-Accord-86-89-COMBINATION-SWITCH-ASSY-LX-LXI-SEI-/350225513157?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AAccord&hash=item518b113ac5. The seller has two to choose from. The seller’s rating seemed pretty good. Just wanted to provide this, as I am sure a dealer part could get expensive. My rule of thumb is if a used part is 25% or less, it is worth considering.
Good luck. I am interested to hear the outcome. Keep us posted.
Thanks for the updated information. As inxs and twiggy02919 mention, confirm the connections and operation of the oxygen sensor. Does it cost an additional fee for a retry of a failed emissions test in Canada?
As redfury indicated from above, a kinked or restricted fuel line from the gas tank can produce this symptom. It appears that the problem of shutting off after 10 seconds began after the fuel pump was looked at (and gas tank dropped). And the vehicle can now be started every time from raceking1324‘s post (8/26/2011 8:53:55 AM). A fuel pressure gauge at the rail will help provide important information on the fuel delivery system.
If you don’t have a fuel pressure gauge handy, you can still re-lower the gas tank some. Start the vehicle up and see if the same “shut off” condition occurs after 10 seconds. If the car runs fine, re-tighten the gas tank taking care to ensure the lines are not getting pinched.
I am pumped to hear back from raceking1324 on this (and I haven’t even had my coffee yet). Again, excellent suggestion redfury! Keep us posted.
You are welcome Tonisher. Always happy to help. Your appreciative words just made my day!
Keep the questions coming everyone. ETCG forum rocks!
Typical fuel systems are between 35 – 45 psi. Disengage the fuel pump (pull the fuse), and reliever fuel pressure by cranking the engine over. If the vehicle starts, it should stall almost immediately. Turn the key to the “off” position. Re-install the fuel pump fuse. Hook the fuel gauge up, turn the key to the “on” position, and monitor the pressure in the system. Afterwards, start the vehicle and monitor the fuel pressure readings while running (and when the vehicle stalls). Keep us posted on what you find.
Hi Dan,
Both mss829 and spelunkerd have provided excellent suggestions. A couple other comments/thoughts that I would like to add:
1. Was the previous AC/alternator belt re-used after the compressor was replaced?
2. Do you know if the shop that performed the repair removed the AC/alternator drive belt via the belt tensioner, or did the shop loosen the alternator enough to slip the belt off? I would presume the former, but if the alternator was loosened up, it may have not been repositioned properly upon belt reinstallation. Check for excess play in this belt.
Good luck. Keep us posted.
Hi scottie35,
Interesting conditions. Based on dreamer2355’s comments regarding the MAP, it almost sounds like some vacuum lines could be compromised. If you have access to a vacuum gauge, check to see that you have at least a steady 18 inches Hg for vacuum while your car is running at idle. Also, given the age of the car, an inspection of all the vacuum lines for cracks and dry-rot would be also be good to do.
I am very interested to hear the outcome on this. Keep us posted.
Hi firebirdjimbo,
Thanks for the added information. Regarding the unplugged “camshaft” position sensor, is it a “camshaft” or “crankshaft” position sensor? I looked on AdvanceAutopart’s website and only a crankshaft position sensor is listed. It seems odd that the car would run the same whether this sensor was connected or not. To verify the crankshaft position sensor (and circuit), here are some quick recommendations:
1. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor. With the key “on”, verify that voltage is being supplied at the electrical connector. I am going to assume a value of 5V should be obtained. (Forum: please correct me if I am wrong)
2. With proper voltage verified going to the sensor, remove the sensor (hopefully this is easy to get to). Connect the DVOM (digital, volt, ohm meter) to the leads of the crankshaft position sensor. Take a piece of metal (iron) and bring it back and forth in proximity to the sensor tip of the crankshaft position sensor. I believe if you have the DVOM set on volts (AC), you can watch the signal output change back and forth as you move the metal piece back and forth from the sensor tip. (Forum: Again, correct me if I am wrong here please.)
Just some thoughts. Again, strange that the car would behave the same way whether the crankshaft position sensor is connected or not. Keep us posted.
Hi RichWhitehead,
Interesting conditions regarding NOx (oxides of nitrogen) and CO (carbon monoxide). I am sure Eric will be licking his chops when he reads your post. Here are a few comments:
1. Based on code 41, the oxygen sensor would appear to need replacing.
2. Based on the gas analysis, were HC, O2, and CO2 also measured? If so, what were their readings please?
NOx is typically formed when the combustion chamber reaches temperatures greater than 2,300 degrees F. Check to make sure you have proper coolant flow and that your thermostat works. The EGR also helps to lower the combustion temperature by supplying exhaust fumes (hence less gas is being burned in the combustion chamber). I believe Eric mentioned this was a common occurrence with a plugged EGR (http://www.ericthecarguy.com/videos.aspx?vi=d8N-SE047VY)
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3. The first part of the catalytic converter (Rhodium coated honeycomb) takes the NOx gases and reduces them to N2 and O2. The generated O2 gas aids complete combustion (oxidation) of any HC or CO in the second part of the catalytic converter (Palladium coated honeycomb), yielding H2O and CO2.
Hey…I am putting my Chemistry background to use!If the first part of the converter is no longer working, elevated levels of NOx will be seen, and there will not be generated O2 gas from the NOx reduction. Thus, any CO present in the exhaust would not be oxidized properly. You could have a combination of a bad O2 sensor, causing an incorrect air:fuel ratio (rich condition) along with a bad converter.
4. A faulty MAP could also produce a rich condition. However, given the info above, I would tend to lean towards the O2 sensor.
5. How many kilometer is on the converter? Keep us posted.
Hi Tonisher,
I did a quick search and found a great step-by-step procedure with pictures for removing a 2.5L engine out of a 2002 Altima. Looks like the intake manifold stayed on as the engine was hoisted out of the vehicle. Enjoy.
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/2002-2006-nissan-altima-discussion-2-5-3-5/308037-diy-altima-2-5l-engine-removal.html
Good luck!
Hi Mitsubishieclipse03,
Happy Friday. Sorry to hear about the lifter tick noise. On the other hand, that is better than a loud knock noise. Two suggestions (one quick, one not-so-quick)
1. You can use a quart of Gunk Motor Flush. Empty into your oil with the engine cold, run the car for 5 minutes in park, and then drain the oil and change the oil filter. Fill the engine with new oil (and oil filter) and see if the lifter tick is gone. The objective in using the Gunk Motor Flush is to hopefully thin out whatever is clogging the lifter from working properly. Even if this does not work, the Gunk Motor Flush will hopefully loosen up some of the existing sludge that might be building up in the engine.
2. If the lifter noise is still there, here is a link that provides a step-by-step instruction on how to perform.
http://www.club3g.com/forum/maintenance/137563-how-remove-lifter-tap-completely-2-4l.html
Do you know which lifter(s) is bad? I used a stethoscope to identify which cylinder the ticking noise was coming from while the engine is running. Harbor Freight sells a stethoscope fairly inexpensively. You can also use a long wooden dowel. If you decide to replace all the lifters, then it won’t matter. But if the budget only allows for fixing the bad lifter(s), that would be my recommendation.
I have only performed one lifter job and that was on a Dodge Intrepid 2.7L engine. Anyone have any other ideas and suggestions? Keep us posted.
Hi firebirdjimbo,
Happy Friday. As Tri9ss points out, it is always a good idea to clean out the throttle bottle from time to time. Great suggestion as part of routine care and maintenance.
How old and how many miles are on the current set of spark plugs and wires? If the vehicle is indeed not firing on all cylinders on some of the start-ups, I would expect to see extra carbon build up on some of the spark plugs. If it is not known how old the spark plugs are, definitely pull them and take a look. According to Autozone’s webpage, the spark plug gap for this make and model should be 0.032″.
Keep us posted.
Hi raceking1324,
Happy Friday! A couple questions to help going forward.
1. What vehicle are we dealing with?
2. Is the alarm in your car factory installed, or an aftermarket?
Looking forward to your reply. Keep us posted.
Hi pschulyer,
Happy Friday. Hey, weren’t you the person that won that cool Gearbox Tool Chest from EricTheCarGuy’s giveaway contest? Congrats! I am so jealous.
Dreamer2355 makes some excellent suggestions above. With regards to the squeaking, I believe your car has three separate belts. One drive belt is for the alternator. Another drive belt is for the power steering pump. And the third drive belt for the compressor and idler. Check to see that the tension on the alternator drive belt as well as the power steering pump drive belt are correct. These belt tensions are adjusted manually A loose belt in either one of these could provide some slippage, especially as the overall load on the drive belt system increases.
If the drive belts are also old, it would be good maintenance to replace them. Good luck. Keep us posted.
Hi TexasCoder,
Has the oil pressure guage always behaved this way, or is it just recently that the oil pressure guage is now providing a “higher” pressure? Also, have you owned the vehicle for a long time? The oil pressure switch (bad connection at the switch or the switch itself) could provide a false reading on the pressure. I would take a look at the oil pressure switch and its connector. If this is the original switch that came with the vehicle, at 202,000 miles, it could definitely be time to replace.
I believe there is also a way to thread in an external oil pressure guage to monitor as well. This would help verify the “higher” oil pressure reading on the dash. Anyone else have thoughts on this?