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Hi patron_silver,
Does the radiator cooling fan(s) work? If the radiator fan(s) have stopped working, the temperature of the coolant would rise, and thus so would the pressure. This would help explain why the vehicle overheats when at a stop, but is OK during motion. Keep us posted.In order to obtain the warranty for the compressor, the accumulator and orifice tube typically have to be replaced as well. Or receiver/dryer if the AC system has a thermal expansion value (TXV). The amount of oil in the old compressor also needs to be measured, with replacement oil (PAG) added to the new compressor. If you are changing out the accumulator, then the oil in that component needs to be taken into consideration as well.
So yes, it is a little more involved than just changing out the compressor. I learned this the hard way, before I took the HVAC class in Automotive Technology. If it your HVAC class is not off in the too distant future, your vehicle would make for an excellent project for lab. Nothing like working on your own vehicle in lab, and making it better!
Yup, I’ll also agree with the vacuum leak….that would be the best place to start. I was jumping ahead with the compressor, fan, and belts. The “hissing” noise would more than likely by a vacuum leak. The compressor, when “on” is adding load to the engine, making the engine work harder, especially if there is a vacuum leak. Keep us posted.
(Thanks rice400, wardak33, and scottie35….I missed the obvious here.)
Hi newyota,
I personally don’t have a ton of experience with timing belts….only did one so far on my ’94 Camry. It’s good that you know where the marks are suppose to go. Based on your description, it appears that the cam sprockets have moved. I am assuming that this is how the timing belt resides on the vehicle, with the crank still lined up. If this is the case, I would remove the timing belt from the cam sprockets, readjust so that everything is lined up, and then re-install the belt. I know….way easier to write this than actually do it.
Patience is key. If you need to, take a break and come back fresh. Once the belt is finally on and everything appears to be lined up, rotate the crank two full revolutions and recheck the markings. Everything should still be lined up. You will get there.
Anyone else have some helpful tips and insight to share? Looking forward to learning more on this myself as well. Keep us posted.
Hi WDHewson,
Seems like the vehicle’s brakes are behaving properly. Is there any concerns with the pads wearing out sooner than expected? The fact that you can still touch the discs even after light use is pretty good. There is a lot of kinetic energy that gets converted into heat when the brakes are applied. Could it be more with how this particular make/model of vehicle with its engine and transmission give more of an appearance of “drag” than anything else? I don’t know myself. Thoughts anyone? Keep us posted.
Hi wardak33,
Did you replace the entire hub or just the wheel bearings? If you replaced just the wheel bearings, did you also replace the corresponding race that comes with each bearing? Keep us posted.
Hi Ojalem,
Great post with info and symptoms. I would start with the compressor, belt(s), and cooling fan(s). It would appear the compressor is working extra hard, and impacting negatively the performance of the car. This is definitely not normal. With regards to the “hissing” noise, check near the pressure relief valve on the compressor. This is a fail-safe, incase the pressure on the high-side gets to be too high (~450psi). If the relieft valve did open, there should be some PAG oil remnants .
If you have access to a set of AC pressure gauges, that would also help determine how the AC is working. If you are not familiar with this, then it would be best to have someone who is trained perform.
Good luck. Keep us posted.
Hi undrgrnd,
I would suggest doing a check of all the vacuum lines. Look for cracks or very worn tubing. Vacuum tubing can wear out and collapse on itself, especially smaller diameter tubing. The vacuum tubing may look fine when “cold”, but change once it gets hot (cracks becoming more evident or collapsing).
From your description, the stalling/bucking condition only occurs when the engine gets hot. A stuck open EGR valve would cause the engine to buck or stall, however, this would also occur during start-up when the engine is cold. If you have access to a vacuum gauge, see what the vacuum is at the intake manifold while the car is running at idle. You should get ~18″ Hg of vacuum.
In addition, once the vehicle stalls, can the vehicle be re-started right away, or do you have to let the engine cool down? A bad coolant temperature sensor could also cause similar conditions, especially if this sensor is only recognizing a “cold” temperature due to an open or short in the circuit (sensor).
Does your check engine light come on at all during this condition? Keep us posted.
Hi Elfy,
When the AC is running, is the compressor cycling “on” and “off” frequently? In other words, is the clutch on the compressor engaging and then disengaging frequently? If this is the case, where the compressor is turning on and off in a short amount of time (a couple seconds), usually the ac system is low on refrigerant. However, a set of AC gauges would be in order to properly verify the static pressure of the system, as well as the low and high side pressures of the AC system when in operation. Keep us posted.
Hi newyota,
Your owner’s manual will indicate what type of antifreeze to use. I am a big believer of using OEM coolant. As dreamer2355 points out, different coolants employ different technologies. The Dex-Cool uses OAT (organic acid technology). Dex-Cool uses the additive sodium 2-ethyl hexanoate and controls the pH to ~7.0 in a 50:50 mixture. In comparison, regular “green” antifreeze at the same 50:50 concentration has a pH of ~9.0!. The “green” coolant is 100 times more basic than Dex-Cool.
Also, some vehicles use HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology). This has different additives and I believe a 50:50 mixture of the Zerex G-05 (used in later model DaimlerChrysler vehicles) has a pH of ~6.5. Newer Asian vehicles typically take a “red” or pink” colored coolant. I don’t have much experience with these, but hope to in the near future.
So as you can see, different coolants have different properties. Hence, why it is not a good idea to mix them. In addition, the vehicles gaskets, seals, and metal components that come in contact with the coolant have all been designed with the OEM coolant in mind.
Continued good luck with the timing belt replacement. If anything else comes up, keep us posted.
Hi nickelfritz9,
A couple quick comments to help us going forward.
1. Is the bulb actually burned out? Your last comment indicates that the bulb filament is still good. I would suggest placing the suspected “burned out” bulb in the passenger side rear turn signal and see if the bulb still works.
2. Verify the correct turn signal bulb is being used. The owner’s manual should provide this info.
3. How do the connections look (both bulb and more importantly, the socket). Check for corrosion at the terminals. Corrosion in the socket will provide high resistance and prevent the bulb from properly working all the time (if at all).
Keep us posted on what you find.
Hi uncle Buck,
I would suggest checking any fuse related to the speedometer. In addition, check to make sure the connection for the vehicle speed sensor (from the transmission) is intact. Definitely seems odd that the speedometer just stopped working. Keep us posted.
Hi johnnyb,
From your post, it sounds like this has been an issue in the past, but now has gotten a lot worse. A couple quick thoughts:
1. Is your CEL (check engine light) on? Even if it is not “on”, if you have the ability to scan for “pending” codes, this could help.
2. Check your TPS (throttle position sensor) output. The TPS on this vehicle has two separate 3-pin connectors. I presume this is a dual monitoring system for the TPS. For either set of 3-pins, one pin should have a 5-V reference, another pin should be ground, and the third pin should be the “sweeper” pin for the TPS. There are a couple of ways (that I know) to check the TPS.
a. Scan tool with the ability to look at Live Data…however, we may not have this.b. Voltage Test. With the connectors attached to the TPS, backprobe the connectors (I carefully insert paper clips into each one). With the DVOM (digital volt, ohm meter) on DC volts, and the key in the “on” position, identify the 5V reference pin and ground pin. The remaining pin in the “sweeper” pin. Usually at closed throttle, the voltage reading (between the “sweeper” pin and ground pin is either 0.5V or 4.5V. Again, with the DVOM set on DC volts and connected to the ground and “sweeper” pin, manually open up the throttle. The voltage should rise from 0.5V smoothly to around 4.5V at WOT (wide open throttle). Or if you have 4.5 V to begin with, the voltage should fall smoothly to 0.5 V at WOT.
c. Resistance Test. If you do not want to back-probe the connectors, disconnect the TPS from its electrical harness. It is always important to isolate any component from the electrical system if resistance testing will be performed. Again, with the DVOM set on ohms, monitor the resistance on the “sweeper” pin and ground pin. You are looking for a smooth increase (or decrease) in resistance as the TPS goes from closed to WOT.
Any abnormal jump in voltage or resistance, or complete loss of signal all together, indicates that the TPS has started to wear out. Replacement would in be order. A loss of signal by the TPS, especially to the computer while the car is running, could cause rough or complete shutdown of the vehicle. Keep us posted.
Hi grizlybear,
In addition to what ETCG stated, check the vacuum of the engine while running. A plugged exhaust or plugged catalytic converter will severely compromise the engine’s ability to breathe, and thus move the vehicle. The vacuum at idle should be at least 18″ Hg. You can open up the throttle and watch the vacuum. The vacuum should initially drop, but recover back to its original starting point. A plugged exhaust will create back pressure, and this would be evident by watching the vacuum pressure continue to drop as the throttle is opened up and left open.
Any other conditions to report? I am curious to know if this symptom just started, or has the vehicle gradually lost power over time. Keep us posted.