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Thanks for the link for the bulb in question. I would suggest to make sure that the metal connectors inside the bulb socket itself are clean and free or corrosion. As a simple test, you can take the tiny wires that come out of the bulb and bend one of them over to the other side of the bulb. The metal connectors themselves inside the bulb socket might provide better connection on one side. Worth a try. Good luck and keep us posted.
+1 on Beefy‘s suggestion with checking out the wiring diagram. I believe the parking lights and turn signal lights are activated by separate switches. I would look closer at the&
Hi michaelbarone,
Yes, welcome to the forum! Check out EricTheCarGuy’s video on “How to Replace Drum Brake Shoes (Full)”. Check out the 14:00 time mark for the “star” or “wheel” adjuster. Hope this helps. Good luck and keep us posted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2qxA&feature=player_embedded
Two quick thoughts come to mind. #1. Check and make sure that the longer of the two shoe pads is on the rear-facing side of the drum. The shorter shoe pad should be on the front-facing side of the drum. #2 Double check all the springs, clips, and star-adjustor for proper placement and fit. Let’s try to figure out why the drum is difficult to put on over the shoes. Keep us posted.
April 15, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: 2002 Ford ZX2 needs a new transmission. But I need to know w #438486Hi Nick,
I have used http://www.car-part.com as a source to look for used parts. Did your mechanic provide a quote to repair your current manual transmission? You can always use that as a starting point. A 30 day (or more) warranty on a used transmission is always a plus to have, when buying used. Good luck and keep us posted.
Hi sjrobinson,
Do we know if this caliper is for the correct side (left, driver’s side)? The caliper is usually side-specific. If you an unsure, the bleeder valve on the caliper should be located more on the top part of the caliper. Just a thought. Keep us posted.
Hi davispb,
Here are some links that might help with determining what the CEL (check engine light) is. Good luck and keep us posted.
For a list of codes for the ’91 truck:http://www.fordf150.net/howto/eecivcodes.php
How to read the codes without a scan tool (youtube):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=OBqJfjDTlFkHi jamiedahmer,
Welcome to the forum. I would recommend checking the condition of the rotor, pads, caliper, and brake hose. Thanks for the information above. Given that off-roading is done, it could be debris causing havoc with the caliper and brake pads too. I thorough check of the associated brake components will hopefully reveal the issue at hand. I don’t think the “hot” condition is from an alignment issue either. Good luck and keep us posted.
Hi fcobob78,
I would also recommend a good visual inspection of the motor mount and transmission mounts. I had to replace the trans-center mount on a similar Town and Country vehicle. The large rubber dampener of this mount was dry-rotted, and in addition, one of its “ears” (further hole on the same mount where a bolt went through) was broken, all causing the vehicle to exhibit vibrations. A new trans-center mount fixed the problem.
For reference, the trans-center mount is located on the left side of the engine. Access to the bolts for this mount can be gained through removal of the front driver’s side tire. There is either an access-shield or port that allows you to get a socket on the bolt head (with a long extender), if memory serves me correctly.
Good luck and keep us posted.
+1 all to college man, dreamer2355, and djdevon3!
To answer your latest question, you should be able to start your car without the drive belt (i.e. serpentine belt) on the vehicle.  
+1 dreamer. I am with you for vacuum leaks.
A vacuum gauge will help provide some good information on how the engine is running. You want to see at least 18 inches of mercury (Hg) for vacuum whi
+1 to college man and dreamer2355. All great place to start looking for what might be the issue(s).
The throttle plate might also need a good cleaning. If you do clean up t
For “shims”, I believe Eric is referring to the thin metal anti-vibration dampners that sometimes come with disc brake pads. These shims are applied to the back of the disc brake pads. For rear drum brakes, they are typically adjusted using the “adjust screw” or “star adjuster”. Some vehicles have an access point on the rear side of the hub for adjustment (removal of the rubber plug is required). Other vehicles have access on the front side of the drum (like my ’94 Camry). And some will require the removal of the drum to physically access the star adjuster. Please see the link below. Good luck and keep us posted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2 … r_embedded (check out the 17:00 mark)
For “shims”, I believe Eric is referring to the thin metal anti-vibration dampners that sometimes come with disc brake pads. These shims are applied to the back of the disc brake pads. For rear drum brakes, they are typically adjusted using the “adjust screw” or “star adjuster”. Some vehicles have an access point on the rear side of the hub for adjustment (removal of the rubber plug is required). Other vehicles have access on the front side of the drum (like my ’94 Camry). And some will require the removal of the drum to physically access the star adjuster. Please see the link below. Good luck and keep us posted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2 … r_embedded (check out the 17:00 mark)
+1 on the videos dreamer2355, thanks.
I would also check the TPS (throttle position sensor) for proper voltage reading at WOT (wide open throttle). The TPS could have a dead spot that is star
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