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So I bought a multimeter and measured for parasitic draw by putting one end on battery negative and the other on the negative terminal (which I disconnected from the battery), just like Eric showed in his parasitic draw video. It draws about a full amp when the car is off, and every now and then it will spike to almost 10 amps and then the car tries to start itself without the key in the ignition. This makes me think it has something to do with the remote start. Next step will be to find out how that was installed and then ill disable it and see if i still have any parasitic electrical draw.
Something else I found was that when I turn on the flashers, the relay, which is behind the glove compartment, makes a loud noise similar to a squeaky car door. Not sure if this is important but I figured id mention it.Can you be a little more specific? does it happen when the car is cold or warmed up? how about when in idle vs when the vehicles running? A video may be useful too. You can try taking a LOOONG screwdriver and touching it to different parts of your engine, and then putting your ear on the other end of the screwdriver to listen to where the noise comes from, just like a stethoscope!
Can you be a little more specific? does it happen when the car is cold or warmed up? how about when in idle vs when the vehicles running? A video may be useful too. You can try taking a LOOONG screwdriver and touching it to different parts of your engine, and then putting your ear on the other end of the screwdriver to listen to where the noise comes from, just like a stethoscope!
sounds like your condenser fan isnt turning on. When your sitting still, the fan isnt moving to cool the condenser so you dont get as cool air as when your driving and forcing air into the condenser. Start the car and turn the air on full blast, then pop the hood to see if the fan engages. If its clutch activated (theres a belt attached to it), try spinning the fan with the car off. It should only spin 1/8- 1/4 of the way, if it spins too easily the clutch it s probably bad.
sounds like your condenser fan isnt turning on. When your sitting still, the fan isnt moving to cool the condenser so you dont get as cool air as when your driving and forcing air into the condenser. Start the car and turn the air on full blast, then pop the hood to see if the fan engages. If its clutch activated (theres a belt attached to it), try spinning the fan with the car off. It should only spin 1/8- 1/4 of the way, if it spins too easily the clutch it s probably bad.
What bm3000 said- that looks like a backfire hole, id either get a new muffler or just gut it and weld it back up cause i dont think youll fix that.
As for the suspension, jack the car up and see if you can shake the wheel to replicate the noise. If it doesnt feel overly loose then its probsbly no big deal, the mounts may need to be snugged up or something.
What bm3000 said- that looks like a backfire hole, id either get a new muffler or just gut it and weld it back up cause i dont think youll fix that.
As for the suspension, jack the car up and see if you can shake the wheel to replicate the noise. If it doesnt feel overly loose then its probsbly no big deal, the mounts may need to be snugged up or something.
Ive checked for vaccuum leaks like eric did in his video on GMC jimmy cold starting problems. I didn’t find any vaccuum leaks, however something interesting that I found was when I sprayed the distributor cap with soapy water and then touched the water that puddled up on top of the distributor cap, I felt a very slight electric shock-not sure if this is normal or not. I dont know if it just leaked into a plug wire or theres a small pinhole in the cap somewhere. I didnt see any arcing, but it was daytime so it could have easily gone unnoticed. I pulled the cap and the terminals looked pretty white and crusty so im confident when I get the $80 for parts itll fix the problem. Ill keep everyone posted.
Ive checked for vaccuum leaks like eric did in his video on GMC jimmy cold starting problems. I didn’t find any vaccuum leaks, however something interesting that I found was when I sprayed the distributor cap with soapy water and then touched the water that puddled up on top of the distributor cap, I felt a very slight electric shock-not sure if this is normal or not. I dont know if it just leaked into a plug wire or theres a small pinhole in the cap somewhere. I didnt see any arcing, but it was daytime so it could have easily gone unnoticed. I pulled the cap and the terminals looked pretty white and crusty so im confident when I get the $80 for parts itll fix the problem. Ill keep everyone posted.
Money permitting ill try to replace the cap, rotor, and wires. I was nervous doing it before cause I didnt wanna screw up the timing but it seems really simple on these trucks. It’s only an intermittent problem and I often have to try to make it occur, so its not a top priority right now. After I get my rusted out backing plates replaced and change some fluids (both diffs, tranny, transfer case) and find time between work, college and the girlfriend, ill get back to you guys and let you know what happened.
Money permitting ill try to replace the cap, rotor, and wires. I was nervous doing it before cause I didnt wanna screw up the timing but it seems really simple on these trucks. It’s only an intermittent problem and I often have to try to make it occur, so its not a top priority right now. After I get my rusted out backing plates replaced and change some fluids (both diffs, tranny, transfer case) and find time between work, college and the girlfriend, ill get back to you guys and let you know what happened.
Is there any way to test the spider injector on these trucks? Even if I have to take it to Pepboys and toss them a few bucks to do it with a fancy scan tool or something?