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  • in reply to: recommend tools for a new tech? #629526
    Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
    Participant

      I just started a job in a local garage doing LOFs, fluid changes, maintenance, tire mount/balance and rotations, parts changes, and I’m learning how to do more every day.

      You should definitely have your own tools. Your bosses tools will always go missing, especially the popular sockets (10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 16mm, 19mm impact, and 21mm impact) so take your own.

      Craftsman makes good tools, but they are in the process of moving their production from the US to China. If your local sears still has made in the USA Craftsman tools (highly unlikely), then great, if not, the overseas tools will work too. you can also look into another good made in the USA brand like HUSKY for tools. As far as what you will need, The most important thing is a complete socket set.

      This is what I started with:
      http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-309-Piece-Mechanics-Tool-41309/dp/B00ACDV9L4/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1414269490&sr=8-11&keywords=craftsman+socket+set

      This is a great set to start with. It gives you a complete 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1/2″ drive set with shallow and deep sockets in metric and standard sizes, plus lots of other goodies.

      You can cheap-out on sockets a little, but youll want a good quality ratchet set. Thats where you splurge on snap-on or matco, or even just a good made in the USA brand like HUSKY or older CRAFTSMAN USA.

      Youll also need your basic screwdriver set and pliers set. Get decent quality, but really its your personal preference. Just like anything else in tools, you get what you pay for.

      For LOFs of course youll need an oil filter wrench-actually a variety of them:
      When you have the working room, these are great:
      http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-209-9-Inch-Filter-Plier/dp/B0009WG5SU/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

      I also like this ratcheting type ALOT(Bluepoint has a nice set with 4 sizes of these):
      http://www.amazon.com/TOOLCONNECTION-FILTER-WRENCH-SWIVEL-LASER/dp/B00FZKCMM4/ref=sr_1_36?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414270866&sr=1-36&keywords=oil+filter+wrench+set

      Every car calls for a different type because sometimes you have the working room and sometimes you dont.

      Eventually youll want your own power tools, especially battery-powered impacts and ratchets, but for now id say just borrow your bosses. They get pricey.

      Tool storage is the least important thing youll need to worry about, however I highly recommend buying a tool cart:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/large-steel-tool-cart-with-locking-drawer-90428.html

      Snap-on sells one just like this for $150 which isnt too bad considering itll be quality and guaranteed forever. Carts are nice because youre never working right next to your box. Sometimes youre on a lift farther away from your box, sometimes youre out in the parking lot, so a tool cart lets you load up your tools and any of youre bosses tools youll need to borrow. They also give you a portable table/worksurface to hold your crap.

      Boxes are good for once you have alot of stuff. Unless your planning on doing this for a living, buy a cheap box-REAL CHEAP. I have a stack of craftsman boxes, I believe the cheapest model they offer. You can get killer deals at sears on toolboxes around the holidays so you may want to hold off a few weeks. To be honest Im not a huge fan of my box. I wish I had bought a HUSKY box, those seem pretty nice for the money.

      If you work on stuff your gonna need tools. Don’t skimp out on hand tools. You may get to the point where youll be handing over two paychecks in a row to the snap-on guy, but youre gonna be spending money on tools-thats just how it goes.
      Good Luck!

      in reply to: recommend tools for a new tech? #640361
      Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
      Participant

        I just started a job in a local garage doing LOFs, fluid changes, maintenance, tire mount/balance and rotations, parts changes, and I’m learning how to do more every day.

        You should definitely have your own tools. Your bosses tools will always go missing, especially the popular sockets (10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 16mm, 19mm impact, and 21mm impact) so take your own.

        Craftsman makes good tools, but they are in the process of moving their production from the US to China. If your local sears still has made in the USA Craftsman tools (highly unlikely), then great, if not, the overseas tools will work too. you can also look into another good made in the USA brand like HUSKY for tools. As far as what you will need, The most important thing is a complete socket set.

        This is what I started with:
        http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-309-Piece-Mechanics-Tool-41309/dp/B00ACDV9L4/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1414269490&sr=8-11&keywords=craftsman+socket+set

        This is a great set to start with. It gives you a complete 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1/2″ drive set with shallow and deep sockets in metric and standard sizes, plus lots of other goodies.

        You can cheap-out on sockets a little, but youll want a good quality ratchet set. Thats where you splurge on snap-on or matco, or even just a good made in the USA brand like HUSKY or older CRAFTSMAN USA.

        Youll also need your basic screwdriver set and pliers set. Get decent quality, but really its your personal preference. Just like anything else in tools, you get what you pay for.

        For LOFs of course youll need an oil filter wrench-actually a variety of them:
        When you have the working room, these are great:
        http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-209-9-Inch-Filter-Plier/dp/B0009WG5SU/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

        I also like this ratcheting type ALOT(Bluepoint has a nice set with 4 sizes of these):
        http://www.amazon.com/TOOLCONNECTION-FILTER-WRENCH-SWIVEL-LASER/dp/B00FZKCMM4/ref=sr_1_36?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414270866&sr=1-36&keywords=oil+filter+wrench+set

        Every car calls for a different type because sometimes you have the working room and sometimes you dont.

        Eventually youll want your own power tools, especially battery-powered impacts and ratchets, but for now id say just borrow your bosses. They get pricey.

        Tool storage is the least important thing youll need to worry about, however I highly recommend buying a tool cart:
        http://www.harborfreight.com/large-steel-tool-cart-with-locking-drawer-90428.html

        Snap-on sells one just like this for $150 which isnt too bad considering itll be quality and guaranteed forever. Carts are nice because youre never working right next to your box. Sometimes youre on a lift farther away from your box, sometimes youre out in the parking lot, so a tool cart lets you load up your tools and any of youre bosses tools youll need to borrow. They also give you a portable table/worksurface to hold your crap.

        Boxes are good for once you have alot of stuff. Unless your planning on doing this for a living, buy a cheap box-REAL CHEAP. I have a stack of craftsman boxes, I believe the cheapest model they offer. You can get killer deals at sears on toolboxes around the holidays so you may want to hold off a few weeks. To be honest Im not a huge fan of my box. I wish I had bought a HUSKY box, those seem pretty nice for the money.

        If you work on stuff your gonna need tools. Don’t skimp out on hand tools. You may get to the point where youll be handing over two paychecks in a row to the snap-on guy, but youre gonna be spending money on tools-thats just how it goes.
        Good Luck!

        in reply to: rusted screws #629522
        Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
        Participant

          after you round off the cross on the top of the phillips head, sometimes you can drill a small hole and tap a square-drive bit into the screw. I found a 9/64 drill bit works good with a #2 square-drive bit.

          in reply to: rusted screws #640357
          Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
          Participant

            after you round off the cross on the top of the phillips head, sometimes you can drill a small hole and tap a square-drive bit into the screw. I found a 9/64 drill bit works good with a #2 square-drive bit.

            in reply to: Service receptionist #632727
            Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
            Participant

              If he wanted to fire you he would have done it on the spot. I am also new to this trade, and Im trying to put in the time now and show my boss I have common sense and am a good worker who is worth holding on to, so that when I damage something which Im sure I will, then he’l let it go

              in reply to: Service receptionist #622909
              Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
              Participant

                If he wanted to fire you he would have done it on the spot. I am also new to this trade, and Im trying to put in the time now and show my boss I have common sense and am a good worker who is worth holding on to, so that when I damage something which Im sure I will, then he’l let it go

                in reply to: No Crank No Start and Electrical Shananigans #632013
                Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
                Participant

                  So two days after this happened I got a job in a local shop. I jumped it, took it to work, and my boss tested the battery. Turned out it only had 10.56 Volts so i replaced it under warranty and now everythings good. I just overlooked it. My boss told me hes seen cars do weird things when the voltage is low.

                  in reply to: No Crank No Start and Electrical Shananigans #622280
                  Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
                  Participant

                    So two days after this happened I got a job in a local shop. I jumped it, took it to work, and my boss tested the battery. Turned out it only had 10.56 Volts so i replaced it under warranty and now everythings good. I just overlooked it. My boss told me hes seen cars do weird things when the voltage is low.

                    in reply to: Dead Blazer No Start #632011
                    Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
                    Participant

                      Something like this happened to me the other day in my blazer, turned out to be the battery. It was only a year old but it was defective. Take it to pepboys or autozone-they test them for free. Also check your battery terminals for corrosion. Low battery voltage can also make it do weird things electrical wise or make it throw random codes, which may also explain the rough driving. Dont overlook the little things.

                      in reply to: Dead Blazer No Start #622277
                      Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
                      Participant

                        Something like this happened to me the other day in my blazer, turned out to be the battery. It was only a year old but it was defective. Take it to pepboys or autozone-they test them for free. Also check your battery terminals for corrosion. Low battery voltage can also make it do weird things electrical wise or make it throw random codes, which may also explain the rough driving. Dont overlook the little things.

                        in reply to: No Crank No Start and Electrical Shananigans #630166
                        Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
                        Participant

                          Well I discovered that when I get the car started by jumping it, it does all sorts of crazy electrical things. The rear wiper goes on when I honk the horn, I hit the unlock button and the doors lock and unlock twice, the flashers flash twice as fast as usual, and the remote start likes to engage when the key is out or the car is already running. This makes me think my BCM has gone bad 🙁 Im gonna take it to the dealer to make sure and probably get raped in the process…

                          in reply to: No Crank No Start and Electrical Shananigans #620426
                          Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
                          Participant

                            Well I discovered that when I get the car started by jumping it, it does all sorts of crazy electrical things. The rear wiper goes on when I honk the horn, I hit the unlock button and the doors lock and unlock twice, the flashers flash twice as fast as usual, and the remote start likes to engage when the key is out or the car is already running. This makes me think my BCM has gone bad 🙁 Im gonna take it to the dealer to make sure and probably get raped in the process…

                            in reply to: Getting my foot in the door in auto repair #630164
                            Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
                            Participant

                              Well I just got a job at a local shop banana: Everything you two said was spot on, especially about striving to learn more and realizing I dont know anything. I made a great impression on the boss so thank you very much. It seems like a great shop and everyone there is cool, and I cant wait till I start tomorrow!

                              in reply to: Getting my foot in the door in auto repair #620425
                              Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
                              Participant

                                Well I just got a job at a local shop banana: Everything you two said was spot on, especially about striving to learn more and realizing I dont know anything. I made a great impression on the boss so thank you very much. It seems like a great shop and everyone there is cool, and I cant wait till I start tomorrow!

                                in reply to: No Crank No Start and Electrical Shananigans #629939
                                Frank AruffoFrank Aruffo
                                Participant

                                  So I bought a multimeter and measured for parasitic draw by putting one end on battery negative and the other on the negative terminal (which I disconnected from the battery), just like Eric showed in his parasitic draw video. It draws about a full amp when the car is off, and every now and then it will spike to almost 10 amps and then the car tries to start itself without the key in the ignition. This makes me think it has something to do with the remote start. Next step will be to find out how that was installed and then ill disable it and see if i still have any parasitic electrical draw.
                                  Something else I found was that when I turn on the flashers, the relay, which is behind the glove compartment, makes a loud noise similar to a squeaky car door. Not sure if this is important but I figured id mention it.

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