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I agree with rocknrollnick, you have already done well by changing the gear oil in the rear diff. Change the front with the recommended spec (Amsoil if you wish). The diffs don’t connect, so it will not be an issue. When it’s time for another change, then you can put the same oil in both.
^ Hopefully the water pump was changed with the timing belt at 105,000 miles. OP, was this done? Or do you know.
With the window rolled down,
Step 1:
First start by removing the door panel. Once you have the panel unscrewed and popped off, you have to pop off a small plastic piece that by the mirror. Then just lift the panel up, and it should come off. You can leave the wires for the switches plugged in, and just let the panel hang.Step 2:
Once the panel is off you will see the two inside pads and their brackets. There is one 10mm bolt you have to take out to remove the bracket, and then slide the pad out.Step 3:
Now that the inside pads are out you have room to move the window to get to the outside pads. I have been told there are two inside and two outside pads, but there may be three outside pads. On the sides of the pads are tabs that have to be pushed in to remove the pads. You have to slide your fingers between the window and the door to push the tabs in. The pads might be hard to remove, so a little pry from a flat head screw driver will help. It also helps to take off the weather stripping on the side of the door to get to one of the pads.If you have fat fingers:
If you have trouble getting to the tabs to push them in you can remove the black strip along the top of the door. Remove the screw from the end of the strip. Then you have to pull up carefully on the strip to get the white tabs to pop off the door. I was able to get a few to pop off, but I didnt use much force so I wouldn’t break them.Step 4:
Now you can clean the pads.Just re-install them in reverse of removing them.
Also, if you somehow break one or just want to buy new pads, here are the OEM part numbers:
Inner : 62304FA001
Outer : 61256FE020I’m pretty sure u’ll never get scratches out a glass window like once it’s done, it’s done.
I accept them as adding “character” (like a Subaru needs any more character!).
If some one could cure it, they would be onto a fortune as i have seen so many classic scoobs with the dreaded scratch on drivers side window.What has happened is that the window guide pad is so packed with dirt that it literally sanding/scratching your window. You can remove the pads and clean then with a stiff brush and de-greaser or concentrated soap, then re-install. I don’t know of a good method of repairing the windows though. All 4 of my car’s windows are scratched like that. The previous owner let them get that way.
I have read about this problem with the 5 speed transmissions as well. It’s a great question. On one hand you shouldn’t be able to move the input shaft nut by hand. It def. needs to be torqued down. But is this THE cause of your issue?
I hope a Subie mechanic can chime in on this. Kudos to you on digging in to tackle this.Like I said earlier, I’m 99.9% sure that this is a head gasket. I understand you wanted to check all your bases, however this is such a common issue with this engine that it is recommended to change the head gaskets to Subaru’s updated Multi-Layer Steel gaskets even if you have yet to have an overheating issue.
You can have a shop do a test to check for exhaust gases in the coolant to verify the issue.
If you want to tackle this on your own, there are videos on YouTube (the one by South Main Auto Repair is very detailed). Also, as far as removing the engine vs not removing the engine, both ways work, it’s just a matter of preference. Removing the engine seems like more work, but it is a method to get the cylinder heads off and back on easier and faster. Leaving the engine block in keeps you from having to have a few more tools/engine stand/hoist, but takes a bit more wrestling with space in the engine bay.
Also, please change BOTH gaskets as the both will leak even if only one is leaking now.
I would allow 1 week minimum to do the work. This is due to having to have the heads surfaced. Since the car has already overheated, the heads will no longer be level.Sounds like the computer is putting your car into limp mode. Are you sure you checked the engine code correctly? For a 2005 model, the OBDII codes would start with a P. If indeed you are seeing P0064, then it is most likely this code: Heated oxygen sensor (H02S) 3, bank 2, heater control circuit .high. I am not sure that would drop the engine into limp mode or not.
As an owner of a 2005 model, I have had my car go into limp mode for a bad camshaft position sensor (very common problem with these cars).
Please double check the engine code by following these steps:
Put your key in at the OFF position, from there go – ON – OFF – ON – OFF – ON without starting the engine at the 3rd position. This will bring up the code(s) in a sequence like this:P1684, – – – – – , P0134, – – – – – , P0132, – – – – – , DONE
Please post here when done.The Subie EJ25s (aka 2.5L) during this time WILL have head gasket issues. It’s just a matter of time. The good thing is the factory has an updated gasket, multi-layer steel, that should fix it permanently. Get this repaired before you overheat this to the point of warping the head(s). They warp fairly easily from overheating.
There are two types of engines, Phase 1 and Phase 2. Both variants can have head gasket problems associated with them, but the problems, how to diagnose them, and how to fix them, differ between the two phases.PHASE 1 (Dual Overhead Cam):
Used in:
1996 to 1999 Legacy Outback
1996 to 1999 Legacy GT
1998 Impreza RS
1998 ForesterTypical failure mode:
Internal leak, not externally visible. May see bubbles in overflow reservoir, sludgy residue on walls of overflow reservoir, random overheating of engine.Covered by service bulletin: No
Cost to repair:
DIY: $200 parts
Independent shop: $1000-$1500
Dealership: $2000Phase 1 engines:
Phase 1 engines typically experience an “internal” head gasket failure if failure happens. This is hard for a lot of mechanics to diagnose, is difficult to reliably duplicate, and often has resulted in the owners throwing money and parts at the problem. New thermostats, flushing coolant, new water pumps and radiators are examples which do not fix the problem if it is indeed head gasket failure. If the engine overheats too many times or too severely, it can result in warped heads and the need for a new engine. As of this date Subaru has never acknowledged the existence of any problem, and are unlikely to do so. They have redesigned the head gaskets and most people that have had the new gaskets properly installed have had good success. The “coolant conditioner” described in WWP-99 DOES NOT fix this internal leak, nor does it give you an extended warranty against head gasket failure. Headgasket replacement is your only option besides engine replacement.
Common symptoms:
Overheating, often when slowing or stopped after extended high load driving. The overheating can be seemingly random and sporadic.
Bubbles in coolant overflow reservoir, immediately after running.
Sludgy residue in coolant overflow tank.
Hydrocarbons in coolant overflow tank, this is tested by a mechanic with specialized equipment and is not evident visually.I know this sounds odd, but check your brake calipers. My car had a similar issue(Subaru), and my caliper pins were mostly seized on the passenger side. Noise would go away when braking and get louder turning left. I thought it was a wheel bearing also, but just a seized sliding pin and a rotor with a bit of run-out.
That fuel line looks like standard tubing. I’m sure someone could bend another one for you as a replacement.
BTW, on these cars, you can get engine codes on your own.
Here is the procedure:1. Put the key in the ignition.
2. Turn key all the way forward – not to the point where the car starts, just to the point where all the lights come on. Do it in this sequence: ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON..
3. Keep a close eye on your odometer. You will see a series of codes display, followed by the word “donE”…
4. These codes will tell you why the “Check Engine Light” is coming on.
[quote=”Fast_Lane” post=103462]Frist Thing Before You Add Any Performance to that car is install some good Full Length Subframe Connectors!! Many mustangs have found this the hard way when the doors suddenly don’t open the same.
Find a 87-93 5.0 donor mustang (for some reason the convertibles seem to be the cheapest). The 5.0 Engine, Auto Trans. 8.8 rear & fuel injection can all be used.
For the suspension, 95-98 GT 4 wheel Disk Brakes, Hubs with the better wheel bearings (the 95-98 Cobra would be better, since they came standard with 13 inch Rotors, 4 piston calibers)
You can also use the 95-98 control arms and the updated steering rack with the longer tie rod ends, if you use the Maximum MotorSports Conversion Steering shaft. This alone makes a huge difference in the steering.
You can also go real big and go with the 03-04 Cobra Parts, these are the only mustangs that had the IRS with huge front Brembo Brakes. Other then the IRS and Front Brakes, the front suspension was regular SN95 Hardware.
If you do go with a tubular K member, I would go with Maximum MotorSports, I feel these guys make the best Supension parts of any of the others for the Fox Body, they have race tested parts that not only look pretty but work extremely well.[/quote]
Some good ideas there, especially the sub-frame connectors.[quote=”4.6LOHCV8″ post=118876][quote=”TeenageAngst” post=15018]I haven’t really driven lots of cars so my opinion doesn’t hold a lot of weight but if there was one car I consider a blight on the road, one car that if I had my way would be stricken from history, it would be the Dodge Caravan and it’s numerous offspring. There’s really absolutely nothing exceptional about them in any way as far as the ride or driving experience is concerned. They look hideous from every conceivable angle but *particularly* the back. Getting caught in traffic behind one of these bulbous freaks of the automotive world is a comparable experience to being inside of a Vietnamese POW camp. This is exacerbated by the fact that these things are absolutely everywhere so you’re many times seeing multiple Caravans at the same time. Last but certainly not least though are the drivers. I can certainly understand why someone driving a Caravan they paid good money for would want to kill themselves but the driving habits of most Caravan owners seem to indicate they want to take with them as many people as possible. A Caravan, loaded with children, is the most ungracefully driven machine I’ve seen yet. No indicators, ever. Foot to the floor, flying by cars in all lanes regardless of traffic speed. Erratic lane shifts with no real purpose other than to cut someone off for the hell of it. Headlights are optional before 8pm always. They maintain this incredible precision of always being exactly in your blind spot yet completely unaware of their surroundings. I’m convinced a meteor could strike the roadway leaving a mile wide crater and every single Caravan driver would drive top speed right into it. That is unless there was a sign indicating road work ahead in which case they would all crowd into the one open lane to the right of the crater and attempt to hit the workers trying to fill in the hole.[/quote]
*Applauding* that is hitting the nail on the head my brother. but on top of that i dont know if a reliable dodge caravan exists, rather a entire crowd of them. every one i see or hear of needs at least 500$ work done to them mechanically.[/quote]
TeenageAngst basically was making a statement about drivers not vehicles, which is ridiculous. I know the Caravans aren’t Hondas, but the 2006 we owned made it to 180K without many repairs before it was totaled in a collision.