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Just to clarify.
Brembo make an OEM range.
So they are standard pads and discs nothing fancy or racing.
I use them on the two cars I have. And my motorcycle, just pads on the moto.
They have a pad finder thing on the Brembo website.
Just good quality.
The hondas have electronic brake assist so you will not make a difference fitting anything fancy anyway.
An I drive the CRV in the mountains and like the feeling of the bite and lack of fade.
Stay not to dirty as even modern brake dust is not to healthy43000 sounds about right.
Its thickness that counts.
If you can get Brembo, the feel will overcome the cost.
Trust me 🙂Yeah ok.
I have the same sentiments about the professional bit.
I live in Europe and consider my self as a jack of all trades but master of none.
I work on yachts/ boats so you tend to have to fix anything.
But Eric has a lot of videos out, and people seem to not even try to get the basics from them before asking on the forum.
In France now people lease new cars from the manufacturer, they sell cars on a cost per month not total cost.
And after a certain period you either buy the car buy paying whats left, or get a new one.
So the car has to be serviced by a dealer for obvious reasons.
But then gets thrown onto the market.
Ok I am banging on about a bunch of stuff. But cars can be dangerous if brakes or suspension or what ever are not done correctly.I have a Bosch universal down stream and a NTK universal upstream. Bosch say not to solder and the sensor has no holes in the body like the NTK and the original Denso.
The Bosch wires seem to be made of stainless steel or something and would be hard to solder anyway.
The conector box also has stainless conector pins and rubber sealing caps like on the original Honda plugs under the car.
The NTK came with a copper wire connected to the original but the Honda wires on the original are not copper and soldering could be a problem.
I fitted the universal as they are a lot cheaper than Honda. But had to bin one as the heater resistance was too low.
So far so good and with an older car the original ones lasted for 14 years so hopefully it will keep it running.I have a Bosch universal down stream and a NTK universal upstream. Bosch say not to solder and the sensor has no holes in the body like the NTK and the original Denso.
The Bosch wires seem to be made of stainless steel or something and would be hard to solder anyway.
The conector box also has stainless conector pins and rubber sealing caps like on the original Honda plugs under the car.
The NTK came with a copper wire connected to the original but the Honda wires on the original are not copper and soldering could be a problem.
I fitted the universal as they are a lot cheaper than Honda. But had to bin one as the heater resistance was too low.
So far so good and with an older car the original ones lasted for 14 years so hopefully it will keep it running.Oh and the wires are made out of steel so the solder will not stick. They must do this because of the heat, but I think there must be something with the oxygen down the wire thing, or through the plastic insulation, as Bosch say to leave a minimum of 13 cm of original wire out the back of the sensor.
Oh and the wires are made out of steel so the solder will not stick. They must do this because of the heat, but I think there must be something with the oxygen down the wire thing, or through the plastic insulation, as Bosch say to leave a minimum of 13 cm of original wire out the back of the sensor.
Ok the Ebay Lambda arrived fist followed one hour later by the Bosch.
Fitted the Ebay one (Thomson from Brasil) with the supply’d crimps and heat shrink, cleared the code, started car, same code P0141 came back :sick:
Check resistance on the heater wires 6 ohms.
Look at Erics video he got 16 ohms.
By now the Bosch has arrived it has 10.5 ohms.
Fit the Bosch with its funny screw connecters no more code 😛http://www.boschautoparts.com/BAP_Technical_Resources%2FOxygen%20Sensors%2FO2InstallGDWEB09.pdf
Think I answerd my own question now. Basicly the o2 sensors are the same, some newer cars from 2005 on may have a wide band sensor but they have more than 4 wires normaly 6.
The heater resistance is important and for Hondas it seems to be from 10 to 15 ohms.
My car is a bit odd as there are not a lot out there so its not so easy to find after market stuff but with a Civic or something it will be easyer for sure.
The Honda prices on this are over the top so after market is the way to go but best stay with a known brand.
Stay clean :dry: sorry dirty 😆Ok the Ebay Lambda arrived fist followed one hour later by the Bosch.
Fitted the Ebay one (Thomson from Brasil) with the supply’d crimps and heat shrink, cleared the code, started car, same code P0141 came back :sick:
Check resistance on the heater wires 6 ohms.
Look at Erics video he got 16 ohms.
By now the Bosch has arrived it has 10.5 ohms.
Fit the Bosch with its funny screw connecters no more code 😛http://www.boschautoparts.com/BAP_Technical_Resources%2FOxygen%20Sensors%2FO2InstallGDWEB09.pdf
Think I answerd my own question now. Basicly the o2 sensors are the same, some newer cars from 2005 on may have a wide band sensor but they have more than 4 wires normaly 6.
The heater resistance is important and for Hondas it seems to be from 10 to 15 ohms.
My car is a bit odd as there are not a lot out there so its not so easy to find after market stuff but with a Civic or something it will be easyer for sure.
The Honda prices on this are over the top so after market is the way to go but best stay with a known brand.
Stay clean :dry: sorry dirty 😆Thanks for the reply.
I have a Bosch universal for 100€ and a no brand EBAY find for 50€ in the post.
Now I was thinking the best connection would be solder. But I was looking at an instalation PDF from Bosch and the say to not solder.I then found this with Google :-
(Wires you can solder- the heaters.
Wires you should not solder- the main signal and the reference line. Why? As odd as it sounds, that’s where the sensor gets air into the thimble so that it can act as a battery. Why not a hole near the sensor? It’s not generally a great location- easy to plug up, make a mess of.)
So 😉 best use the crimps that come with it I think.
Thanks for the reply.
I have a Bosch universal for 100€ and a no brand EBAY find for 50€ in the post.
Now I was thinking the best connection would be solder. But I was looking at an instalation PDF from Bosch and the say to not solder.I then found this with Google :-
(Wires you can solder- the heaters.
Wires you should not solder- the main signal and the reference line. Why? As odd as it sounds, that’s where the sensor gets air into the thimble so that it can act as a battery. Why not a hole near the sensor? It’s not generally a great location- easy to plug up, make a mess of.)
So 😉 best use the crimps that come with it I think.
http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=674&item=1818
Edit
Slight disclaimer on this,
I only work on my own cars and they have been Renaults and Peugeots. The eezibleed thing I have been using for some years has screw caps to fit on the brake fluid reservoirs.
But Hondas have a bayonet type, so it’s not going to fit.
So now after a year or so of owning a Honda I’m thinking about changing the brake fluid and realize that this is not going to work.
I have ordered a universal cap which fits with a rubber band thing, so I’ll see if it works, but I’m not in a hurry to do the job anyway.
But don’t run out and buy one for a Honda as the standard screw caps won’t work and the rubber band cap may be a bit suspect.http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=674&item=1818
Edit
Slight disclaimer on this,
I only work on my own cars and they have been Renaults and Peugeots. The eezibleed thing I have been using for some years has screw caps to fit on the brake fluid reservoirs.
But Hondas have a bayonet type, so it’s not going to fit.
So now after a year or so of owning a Honda I’m thinking about changing the brake fluid and realize that this is not going to work.
I have ordered a universal cap which fits with a rubber band thing, so I’ll see if it works, but I’m not in a hurry to do the job anyway.
But don’t run out and buy one for a Honda as the standard screw caps won’t work and the rubber band cap may be a bit suspect.Put this through Google.
I came up with thishttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsSQSuCiUjE
Ok so you need a tester, this will work to tell if Ethanol is present.
http://www.pilotsofamerica.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29828.
😉 Google – Google banana: you will find a real tester on Ebay or somewhere If you want to find out how much of the stuff is in there.
Put this through Google.
I came up with thishttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsSQSuCiUjE
Ok so you need a tester, this will work to tell if Ethanol is present.
http://www.pilotsofamerica.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29828.
😉 Google – Google banana: you will find a real tester on Ebay or somewhere If you want to find out how much of the stuff is in there.