Forum Replies Created
- Replies
Ran a wire from the positive terminal to C and grounded the ground and the clutch engaged! Looks like I need to replace the thermal protector. Thank you guys for all your help!
[quote=”cap269″ post=139583]You can also test the clutch by unplugging the A/C relay and jumping the load side terminals in the relay socket. If the engine is running and the blower is on and the A/C is selected, jumping those terminals should energize the clutch. If it works, the clutch is good and the issue is in the control circuit. If it doesn’t work, it would be safe to assume the clutch is bad, as long as there is 12v at the relay socket.[/quote]
How do I figure out which are the load side terminals to jump?
Checked ohms by how this diagram indicated, and got 3.7. (not sure if outside temp has anything to do with the reading, it was 90F)
[URL=https://imageshack.com/i/pb3wmAcBj][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/911/3wmAcB.jpg[/IMG][/URL]I also checked for continuity between these two contacts and got nothing. Not sure if this is a valid test or a bad thermal protector or a short along the wire.
[URL=https://imageshack.com/i/ipYzs8B0j][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/673/Yzs8B0.jpg[/IMG][/URL]There is 14.1 volts with the car running and ac on (same as battery). As far as a pressure problem, I jumped the pressure switch which should engage the clutch if it weren’t working due to too low or an over charged system. So there is power making it to the compressor.
I had actually cleaned the MAF as well. Fuel pressure was 52 PSI.
Is there a specific way to test the MAF, or a specific operating range I can watch while the vehicle is running?
Here’s where I’m at now. Tested fuel pressure 52 PSI, drops about 10 PSI after 30 minutes with engine off.
I’v been doing a lot of research on fuel trims are reading O2 Sensor voltages. After the car warms up, the fuel trim pegs lean, and the primary O2 sensor reads between .015 .025 volts, barely any fluctuation mostly flat lines. The downstream sensor reads normal, then slowly matches sensor 1. So I have the fuel trim maxing out lean, and both O2 sensors reading lean. When I pop the throttle, the O2 sensors come back on line and the fuel trim normalizes. While driving everything seems normal but maintaining a steady speed the O2 sensors both read low.
I cannot find any vacuum leaks. Tried water, brake cleaner, and even blew smoke through the vacuum lines. I also cannot hear anything. It’s definitely running lean, what would be a good next step?
So, fuel pressure should raise with the vacuum line removed and the hole covered on the intake manifold? Which in turn should cause the car to run rough, right? I didn’t cover the nipple on the intake manifold just removed the line, which raised RPMS from the leak… I’ll post after I replace it Tuesday. Thanks!
So, fuel pressure should raise with the vacuum line removed and the hole covered on the intake manifold? Which in turn should cause the car to run rough, right? I didn’t cover the nipple on the intake manifold just removed the line, which raised RPMS from the leak… I’ll post after I replace it Tuesday. Thanks!
Checked fuel pressure today, 33 PSI. Raises when vacuum hose is pulled from FPR, lowers when it’s reconnected. Could not find any vacuum leaks, and idle is solid.
Will be checking compression today if the weather holds out. I’ll post the results.
Checked fuel pressure today, 33 PSI. Raises when vacuum hose is pulled from FPR, lowers when it’s reconnected. Could not find any vacuum leaks, and idle is solid.
Will be checking compression today if the weather holds out. I’ll post the results.
Good to hear from you Eric! No replacing parts is NOT a diagnosis, but the majority I replaced were swapped from another Civic. No CEL (I wish!) The TPS is NOT the issue (swapped TB with a known good one). Could not find any vacuum leaks.