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The solenoid assembly will come off but it tends to get a little stuck on there. Make sure that you’ve removed all of the bolts as well. I believe there is one that holds on a cooler line, if you take it off you can push it out of the way (I don’t remember if I had to disconnect it, I’ve since bought a new car and my brother drives this one now). Probably best to have a replacement gasket ready so it doesn’t leak on you. My screens were clogged really badly when I changed out the transmission (it was so close to giving up I decided to change it on purpose). Some brake or carb cleaner should clean them out pretty good, just make sure they’re good and dry when you replace them. It might help but if it’s been shifting poorly for this long you may be short on your luck.
I’ll note that the second trans is starting to do the same but the screens are still clean. It’s possible that they clog up when the transmission is failing, so if the clutches are going bad then that’s probably your larger issue.
Hope this helps!
I think it’d be great to still have a meetup at the shop in order to be able to see it in person. I didn’t get to go last year because of work, but if I can this year I’d love to see it all. Definitely worth the 5 hour drive. Maybe you could sell/hand out tickets for certain days or times to limit the amount of people there at once? Or maybe host in a larger building nearby with visit times to the shop? Maybe I’m a lone wolf here but I think a lot of people would love to see the setting in person.
I’m pretty sure I ordered the DEI 556 bypass. Just make sure to communicate with the seller that you want it programmed for your specific vehicle. They have to install the firmware that will support that type of ECU. You’ll then have to wire it in yourself and program it. It’s kind of a tricky process, so if you’re not comfortable with wiring electronics I’d suggest having somebody else do it. once you start cutting up your immobilzer system you won’t be able to start the car unless you either rewire it all back or connect it to the bypass. Use wire crimps and extra wire for this, you’ll be cutting and stripping some wires in this process
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m pretty sure the tensioners are supposed to be self adjusting on these engines. Mine supposedly is, but then again I’ve never messed with the timing belt. Either way, if you’re having an issue with the tensioner it could cause it to skip a tooth, especially if it was when you were giving it a little more power. I’m surprised it’s even running, from what I’ve heard Hondas hardly ever start if they’re off by even a tooth. But like I said, I’m not really experienced in the J series.
First of all, I can’t believe that you have a car that old with over 300,000 miles that still looks that good. My 02 with 218 is put to shame after looking at that picture. It definitely looks like a good car though.
As far as mods go, there are a few exhaust systems that aren’t loud or raspy that still add a little less restriction than the factory exhaust. Also, you could look into short ram or cold air intakes. Personally, I would do a short ram because these engines usually lack torque on the low end, and the short ram can help to recover that just a little bit. If you’re really looking to add power something as simple as replacing the injectors and running some fuel system cleaner can help restore lost power due to 300,000 miles of crap building up in the system. It can also help clear out a lot of carbon in the engine itself. Seafoam is also an option for you, although I will probably receive backlash for even suggesting it. However, I use the spray can through the intake instead of the fuel method. However, you can do your own research and decide for yourself.
Once you’re past those options then there are a lot of options ranging from ECU tunes, larger throttle bodies, etc. I’m newer to modification myself as I generally do repairs, but there are a lot of websites that can give a lot more insight than I can.
I hope this can help to get you started. The best thing I can say is that these engines are bullet proof as long as you don’t do anything stupid with it. Since it’s electronic ignition, you can probably see better results with tuning that I would with my cap and rotor on my accord. Good luck to you!
If you unplug a coil and don’t hear/feel a difference then that cylinder is definitely misfiring. If they’re independent coils instead of wires coming from a single coil then swap them into a cylinder that you know is firing and see if the misfire moves to a new cylinder. If the problem persists then do the same with the spark plugs (or just replace them all, but it depends on your budget). If this still doesn’t fix the issue then you’re down to either a fuel or compression issue. Personally, I would start with a compression test because it’s probably easier than removing the fuel rail and swapping injectors around. Plus, if it’s cylinders 3 and 4, it could be a head gasket issue where the gasket failed between those two cylinders. Check your oil and your antifreeze to see if they’re mixing together, and also check for blue or white smoke from the exhaust. My “poor man’s” compression test to see if there is a total loss of compression in one or two cylinders is to remove all of the coils and crank the engine for a few seconds. If you can hear hops or skips in the cranking of the engine, they can lead you to a compression issue, but to know for sure it is always better to just rent/buy/borrow a compression tool, or even better yet, a leak down detector to see if the rings could be bad (Eric The Car Guy actually has videos on all of these procedures if I recall correctly). If your compression test checks out OK then you’re left with a fuel issue. This is what I had to deal with when I replaced my engine, as it came with a bad injector, and I ended up having to pull the whole rail out. Even on my four cylinder it took me a good hour or more to fight that thing out of there and get the new injectors oriented correctly and bolted back down, and I can imagine that it won’t be much easier on a V8. However, if you can manage to gain easy access to them in such a way that you can also run the engine, you may be able to run it and feel each injector to see if it’s firing. If not, you may have to employ the same method as with the spark plugs/coils and swap them around to see if the misfire moves to a different cylinder.
I hope all of this nonsense helps a bit. If anybody else has some other ideas that are more familiar with these engines please feel free to correct me. I’m a Honda owner and there are definitely some differences between the two.
I would start by checking all of your electrical connections around the area in which you were working. I’m not terribly familiar with the V6 engines, but you did mention that you removed a bypass actuator. Definitely start by checking there, as well as any other electrical connections to make sure everything got plugged in and that it is securely fastened. It sounds like either an issue that happens once the vehicle is warmed up or when you needed a little bit more power. The misfire codes (P0300-0305) are indicating a possible timing issue, but you also have a code for a knock sensor on bank 2 (P0344). I’m not sure if you’re abbreviating the rest of the codes on your list or if they’re TCS codes due to your TCS light being on. I checked ABS but most of those aren’t registered.
The most obvious thing to check is the timing belt, but if it’s as hard to get to as it is on my four cylinder I would start from the top down before ripping all of that apart again. It’s possible that it could have jumped a tooth or gotten off by a tooth while you were changing it. Make sure that it has proper tension (a loose belt would slip and stretch, causing the timing to vary), and check the timing with a timing light if you have one.
With newer cars these days one issue can set multiple codes and dashboard lights. For example, I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor on our 2011 odyssey after changing the air filter. I figured it out right away when i started the van and it died out right away, but for the next 25 miles or so, the TCS, Check Engine, and ABS lights were on, and it definitely felt like it limped around all due to one electrical connector for the MAF sensor. Yeah, I could’ve reset it with a scanner but it was in my accord and Advance doesn’t reset check engine lights anymore. I’m not advocating you drive around until it goes away, but rather saying it’s probably something similar to that if where the computer detected a problem and then went into a fail safe mode to keep you from doing damage. Definitely check your timing and all of your connections and such for now and then keep working from there.
If you’re trying to remove it to add a remote start system then your easier and safer bet to buy an immobilizer bypass. They’re fairly inexpensive and are only activated when you activate the remote start, meaning that somebody can’t jump in the car with a screwdriver and break the ignition lock, or go underneath and “hotwire” the car. With the solution you’re looking for they would be able to do exactly that. I’m not sure if there is a way, but it does make sense that there could be a chip for it, but it’s also possible that it’s a software feature that can’t be overridden by any sort of hardware change. I went with the bypass route, and it’s worked great for me. Just look for one that doesn’t require you to sacrifice a key to stick in the immobilizer, but rather one that can be programmed with your current key.
I reset the set screw and it seems like the bogging has stopped except for a couple of minor instances. The rough idle is till present, but I guess that could be a spark plug issue too. I reused the NGKs that came with the engine, but I could swap them out for some new ones. I currently have the Honda distributor and wires that came with it, and from what I’ve heard, those shouldn’t be changed unless they actually go bad. The only other thing that I can think of is that the solenoid for the vacuum pressure on the rear mount may not be functioning correctly. I can try to find a way to test it, but I’m limited now that I’m moved into a dorm room instead of my garage at home. If you guys have any other ideas, please let me know! I will be driving back home within the next couple of weeks, so I may have some time to work on it then. If not I guess I could take it to a shop and have them check it out, but its expensive and completely against my DIY philosophy ;). Thanks to you all in advance!
[quote=”Johnny Stang” post=173195]Check the fuel pressure at the rail. If possible, while driving. Never run a hosed fuel pressure gauge into the interior. I took my hood off, propped the gauge up and watched it through the windshield while driving around the block. Found out the fuel pump had plenty enough oomph to idle the truck, but under acceleration it couldn’t keep up.[/quote]
I’m not seeing a port to attach a fuel gauge to my car. Is there an alternative way of doing this?
The problem has come up more recently as it’s gotten warmer, I didn’t really notice it in the winter time. The rough idle has been constant for a couple of years, but the bogging down and stalling is a recent issue that actually started on the old engine. I don’t ever put seafoam in the tank, i Always use the spray nozzle through the intake (no MAF to worry about on this car). I haven’t done that since the swap, but I figured it would be a good idea since the engine is used. I don’t have any codes, the only one I ever got was an intermittent knock sensor code, and I just replaced that on Monday
Well, I’ll be darned but that screw was tightened all the way down. Any chance it could do that over time? The wax was still in place, I had to scrape it out and it took a lot of oomph to loosen the screw. I started it up quick and it idled fine cold, but it always has. I’m going out later, I’ll update then.
I have the same generation accord. Try removing the handle from the inside and pulling on the rods with a pair of pliers to get the door open. If that works, then take off the panel and see if you can figure out where the problem is. Those rods can be a real you-know-what, but perhaps a diagram could help you out. I did a similar procedure on my friend’s 97 maxima and I found some diagram somewhere that helped me get everything back together again.
The handle will come off if you pry back the little cover with a small flathead and remove the screw. Then. slide it (Can’t remember if it’s toward the front or the back) and it will unclip. It takes a little bit of force, but it will come off. The rods have a little plastic clip that turns to lock it, but it sounds like it’s not even connected so it should just come out. If the rods keep coming off then make sure that you put them into the holes and use the little clip things to hold them in place. They just spin around. Put the rod in and turn the clip so that it secures it into place
I’ve witnessed one accident in my life, and it was a really bad one. Nobody was injured, but I did stop to help and make sure everybody was ok. I believe that I should help in such a situation, unless paramedics or police have already arrived on the scene. I called 911 and when everybody was out and walking around OK I left because other people had stopped that had witnessed the accident as well and said they would stay. i can say you did the right thing, and if you’re out in a rural area in the ditch you’re not in that much danger unless accidents happen there frequently. If they do then there should be a patrol on duty to control that situation. I’m glad it sounds like the other guy is OK.