Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Is it exposed enough that you can get a cutting wheel all the way through one side and pry it open or heat it a bit to pull it off? Or maybe straight down the middle and cut the nut in half?
Is it exposed enough that you can get a cutting wheel all the way through one side and pry it open or heat it a bit to pull it off? Or maybe straight down the middle and cut the nut in half?
[quote=”stormer1092″ post=37659]Yea trying to find one right now. Right now I think I’m going to get a purolator filter and try that out. I know the fram filters are prety restrictive.[/quote]
I’ve never had a problem with Fram filters. If they were restrictive to the point where they commonly caused oil flow problems, they would probably be out of business. You may have a bad one, but more likely you have other issues. But I always start cheap and easy, so a new filter isn’t a total waste of money. You are probably better served finding a pressure gage as suggested.
[quote=”stormer1092″ post=37659]Yea trying to find one right now. Right now I think I’m going to get a purolator filter and try that out. I know the fram filters are prety restrictive.[/quote]
I’ve never had a problem with Fram filters. If they were restrictive to the point where they commonly caused oil flow problems, they would probably be out of business. You may have a bad one, but more likely you have other issues. But I always start cheap and easy, so a new filter isn’t a total waste of money. You are probably better served finding a pressure gage as suggested.
I’ve seen Eric say replacing the electrical portion of the ignition switch is a relatively inexpensive job. Has it already been diagnosed at the shop? Next time it happens, try wiggling the key and see if it starts then. If not, and you pulled the main relay and re-soldered it, I imagine you are capable of replacing that switch.
I’ve seen Eric say replacing the electrical portion of the ignition switch is a relatively inexpensive job. Has it already been diagnosed at the shop? Next time it happens, try wiggling the key and see if it starts then. If not, and you pulled the main relay and re-soldered it, I imagine you are capable of replacing that switch.
I don’t have alot of particular experience with that engine, but I think you are on the right track with vacuum/IACV issues.
By IAC hose, I’m guessing you mean the snorkel between the airbox and the TB. It’s probably a muffler to help mitigate the noise caused by the air flowing. Customers are picky about noises.
I don’t have alot of particular experience with that engine, but I think you are on the right track with vacuum/IACV issues.
By IAC hose, I’m guessing you mean the snorkel between the airbox and the TB. It’s probably a muffler to help mitigate the noise caused by the air flowing. Customers are picky about noises.
I’m a bit confused. Are the knobs broken on the control unit only? Or did the mode knob break because something is siezed? If it’s just broken plastic knobs, hit up your local salvage yards and ask for the control unit, not the heater box.
I’m a bit confused. Are the knobs broken on the control unit only? Or did the mode knob break because something is siezed? If it’s just broken plastic knobs, hit up your local salvage yards and ask for the control unit, not the heater box.
Moog is typically the best I’ve dealt with for aftermarket suspension parts, so as long as the part matches, you should be fine. You should also be able to rent a ball joint press from your autoparts store. Don’t smack the thing in with a hammer. And yes, you will need an alignment done after the service.
Moog is typically the best I’ve dealt with for aftermarket suspension parts, so as long as the part matches, you should be fine. You should also be able to rent a ball joint press from your autoparts store. Don’t smack the thing in with a hammer. And yes, you will need an alignment done after the service.
Pretty much all your questions are design related. The oil pan has to fit above and around the cross member/steering gear etc. The transmission’s guts are lower in the casing, and yet still has to hold enough oil so it’s not as deep but wider. Oil filters vary ALOT in design/size. Just run to yer nearest auto parts store and check ’em out. And yes, there is a difference between the bottom dollar oil filter and the top dollar. You get what you pay for as with anything. How much of a difference is a debate in itself.