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Try cleaning MAF. What u indicate is a rich condition. Could be vacuum leak but u said u got that covered. Quick easy.
Maybe a vacuum leak spray some water around vacuum lines and intake manifold and listen for changes in the engine and shaking, stalling
Well known for head gaskets and cracked heads. Hard to find with usual tests. Big symptom is compression gasses pushing antifreeze out of overflow, over heating, air in cooling system etc. If u remove head for head gasket take to machine shop and have it checked for cracks and machined. New rebuild is approx 400.00.
Check ground by putting test light to batt. Positive, touch intake manifold or metal on top engine and touch starter to make sure ground is good.
Just an FYI on cleaning the throttle body. If you find that there is a good amount of buildup around the throttle body blades blocking air passing by, the PCM adjust to this over time until it cannot compensate which gives you the shutting off at stops or push in clutch. You will be required to pull the battery cable to reset the throttle body to factory air gapping
I just have a quick question. I understand you have an oil consumption issue. Was this going on before the exhaust smoke started? I was just wondering from the excess amount of white I see in the smoke if it’s not antifreeze. You said it was a slow consumption so just another thing to think about.
Just a quick thought. In the future when doing headgaskets its important to find the cause of the blown gasket. A head gasket dont generally blow for no reason. I always take heads to the machine shop and have them checked and planed before an install. It only runs about 100.00 and thats a small price to pay to keep your sanity and keeps from doing the job again.
Put test light to ground and test switch using the the attachment i posted
Attachments:Start out with the attached file and a test light
Pull the cap off your distributer and see if the rotor is turning
The link collegeman used would still pertain to that engine due to the fact there is no distributor. It has a crank and cam signal and if either one is bad then you dont have injector pulse or coil. I would still check it out
Check common grounds
Just wondering. Was compression check done with all plugs out and throttle plate open? Not doing so can skew the results. Especially if you have compression going between two cylinders. Eric has a great video on dry and wet testing.
Pull a ground distribution diagram and look at the ground connections that would effect the pcm. My guess is a body ground is not hooked up. The ground u hooked to the power steering would become an engine ground. Most pcm are grounded to the body
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