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After verifying grounds check for vacuum leak, spark and fuel. What is the code stored? Any auto parts store should be able to tell you. A maf sensor is a symptom, not necessarily the cause of the code. It’s like a human body…A cough is a symptom, the cause is bronchitis. Cough syrup will help the cough bit won’t take care of the bronchitis. Check air filter, throttle body, put a vacuum gauge on it at note the needle at idle and when you slap the throttle open. It may be choking itself out due to an exhaust restriction.
Check your battery ground and engine ground. These can break or corrode to the degree where a connection is impossible. No ground, no circuit.
Check your battery ground and engine ground. These can break or corrode to the degree where a connection is impossible. No ground, no circuit.
A bent frame can also create abnormal driving shakes when braking, slowing etc…..Given the tires are good, that is a possibility. What did he hit/drag?
A bent frame can also create abnormal driving shakes when braking, slowing etc…..Given the tires are good, that is a possibility. What did he hit/drag?
Does the vibration go away when throttle is opened? Let’s say it’s vibrating at 55 and you slap the throttle open, does it disappear? Is it at low speed and can you feel it when moving strait but it goes away during a turn? First step is to jack it up and check all suspension components for excessive play and look for fluid from the cv boots.
Does the vibration go away when throttle is opened? Let’s say it’s vibrating at 55 and you slap the throttle open, does it disappear? Is it at low speed and can you feel it when moving strait but it goes away during a turn? First step is to jack it up and check all suspension components for excessive play and look for fluid from the cv boots.
No fuel or spark? We’re the injectors firing? That’s a long time for gas to sit in a tank expecially if it wasn’t sitting full. I’d clean it before moving crud through the system and damaging otherwise potentially good components. The no spark condition isn’t difficult given a systematic approach, fuel that’s been sitting since 2008/2009 is different and needs to be flushed and cleaned. The tank may need to be replaced along with pump, filter etc….All the way to the injectors.
No fuel or spark? We’re the injectors firing? That’s a long time for gas to sit in a tank expecially if it wasn’t sitting full. I’d clean it before moving crud through the system and damaging otherwise potentially good components. The no spark condition isn’t difficult given a systematic approach, fuel that’s been sitting since 2008/2009 is different and needs to be flushed and cleaned. The tank may need to be replaced along with pump, filter etc….All the way to the injectors.
[quote=”wysetech” post=82335]Before you replace the intake gasket make sure the heater hose connections are not leaking above #4 cylinder. It’s a known problem with your truck.[/quote] he knows what he is talking about. I feel almost kneecaped that it wasn’t one of the coil packs, as this is usually the culprit. But good job on noticing the water in the cylinder! We never stop learning. It’s also good to cross off coils from ur list of candidates and hone in on the problem. I’d follow wysetechs advice first, if that checks out then check the “internal” seals of the heads. May be worth just replacing because the smallest wear and/or cracked can leak when under that amount of vacuum pressure and it may not be visible. You have narrowed it down though, which is great!
[quote=”wysetech” post=82335]Before you replace the intake gasket make sure the heater hose connections are not leaking above #4 cylinder. It’s a known problem with your truck.[/quote] he knows what he is talking about. I feel almost kneecaped that it wasn’t one of the coil packs, as this is usually the culprit. But good job on noticing the water in the cylinder! We never stop learning. It’s also good to cross off coils from ur list of candidates and hone in on the problem. I’d follow wysetechs advice first, if that checks out then check the “internal” seals of the heads. May be worth just replacing because the smallest wear and/or cracked can leak when under that amount of vacuum pressure and it may not be visible. You have narrowed it down though, which is great!