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Like you said, take it in before your warranty is up. Leave the vehicle with the dealership and they should give you a loaner car. Take advantage of your warranty while you still have it.
A MAF code will also set if you have an unmetered air source after the MAF sensor. Check your PCV fresh air tube for being disconnected or even a torn air intake tube after the MAF.
Like Eric stated: The switch in the top of the transfer case gets stuck in the open position. The best way to check it is to remove it and see if the plunger is stuck up inside of the body. If it is, replace it. Also, press on the plunger and see if it returns back to the closed (plunger out) position, if not, replace it. Another common problem is the encoder motor on the side of the transfer case. Go after the vac switch first.
Almost forgot, before you remove the switch, clean off the top of the transfer case where the switch is at to prevent debris from entering the t-case
If your cars have the 3.1 or 3.4 (not the dohc) you are right about the pistons. They are not loose fitting, they virtually have no skirt so they slap around inside the cylinder bore. GM’s answer to that was to add a patch of teflon to the thrust side of the piston, which wears off after time and you still have the same situation. I’ve replaced God knows how many pistons under warranty for this exact concern. It is not detrimental to the engine, just an annoyance. But, like the previous posts stated, best to make sure the source of your noise
Here is the info on the GM driveshaft spline lube. Part Number: 12345879. It is in a 16 oz can. It’s called Special Lubricant and is high temperature, ptfe filled and non-melting (all printed on the label). I would like to think that there could be a better name for it, oh well. It does work well.
I know the last post was a little while ago. I was wondering if the new glass you bought is thicker than the old glass? Maybe a different design window channel felt or even rubber is now available?
Have you floored the gas pedal while cranking the engine over when hot? You could have a fuel pressure regulator that is leaking into the vacume hose and flooding out the engine.
Are you still dealing with the issues previously mentioned in this post? Your vibration sound like (to me) the driveshaft angle is off. I have seen this same thing many many times with two piece driveshafts. Loosen both of your center bearing bolts and add a 1/8″ alignment shimm between the bearing plate and the frame, the retorque (you can use regular washers if you don’t have alignment shims). You should notice a difference when you drive it, if it is better, but still there, add more shim. If it worse than the driveshaft needs to go up which may indicate a sagging frame. All I have delt with required shimming the driveshaft down. And as far as the clunk goes, the front yoke into the trans is a very common issue. GM sells a synthetic lube in a 1 qt can to lube the splines. I’m not sure if there are smaller containers. If you go to a Chevy dealership, just tell the parts guy you arte looking for driveshaft spline lube and he will know what you are talking about. If you want I can get you a GM part number on this (I have a can at work).
I will get you a part number tomm (Friday). And yes the rear axle is adjustable through wedge style angle shims between the axle and leaf springs. I have not done this myself so I have no advice on this possible repair. I chope this is all it will take to remedy your concern
I’ll get back to you guys in a couple of weeks on this one (that’s the next time I am going to see the truck) I really appreciate all of the help all of you gave me. Thank you 🙂
I would agree with what you checked, A shredded serp belt usually means a siezed pully, since you found the crank pully blown apart I would say there lies your cause. Keep us posted on what you find
We really need to know what year make and model this vehicle is to help you a little more. Sooo many possibilities on what could be the cause
What does your fuel fill pipe look like? If it is all rusted and scaley, this is probably you source of the problem. Also, how does does the gas tank look, same thing as the fuel fill pipe. The hole doesn’t have to be rig to make a vacume leak. Also, check your gas cap O-Ring that seals against the filler neck, if you see ANY cracks, replace it.