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Problem got fixed! The hose from the vacuum booster to the throttle body got completely wasted. Replaced it and 20 minutes later the car is idling fine. Took a few trips to get it to even out though. P0400 is also back. Told you guys it had nothing to do with poor idle.
Well the rpms problem returned. In city traffic I’m stalling, sometimes, from a stop position on acceleration. Still no check engine light.
To describe its accompanying noise better: It’s a hissing/soft scratching noise on acceleration from the stop position. Goes away after 35mph or so. definitely present at 15mph (school zone) speed.
I’ll visually inspect the MAP sensor (not idle air control, Sir Eric) and update.
I cleaned the egr port, replaces the exhaust gasket too today.Yesterday though, the problem went away by itself. Also, something new that started around the same time the low rpms began was this hissing noise during acceleration (it’s not the fuel system pumping through).
So, rpms stop dropping, egr port gets cleaned anyways, a noise I failed to mention earlier still occurs, and no check engine light returns. Ideas?
I’m sitting here thinking how I would scrub that port? Just shoot carb cleaner and pray it removes all the carbon?
Alright. So then my first step is to clear out the exhaust port for the egr gas passage in the exhaust manifold. I say this because the lines have been replaced since they are all easily accessible and the sensors seem to be doing okay. If you agree, do you have any tips for removing the exhaust manifold? At what temperature should I begin? should I replace the gaskets while I’m there?
I’ve had that code for almost 2 years now and this problem just began, I disagree. I don’t believe the egr code has anything to do with my stalling in gear. I would agree if it stalled when in parking but that is not the case.
I’m going to start testing for intake vacuum leaks. Is carb cleaner safe on rubber? I was going to use the spray to test a leak by listening for engine rev.
I’m going to start testing for intake vacuum leaks. Is carb cleaner safe on rubber? I was going to use the spray to test a leak by listening for engine rev.
I didn’t pay for the rear mount to be installed, the mechanic is a regular customer where I work, he did it for free ans would do the job again but as it was said in previous posts he believes the mount is perfect and won’t cinsider the work he did to be the problem. So i won’t go back to him.
I didn’t pay for the rear mount to be installed, the mechanic is a regular customer where I work, he did it for free ans would do the job again but as it was said in previous posts he believes the mount is perfect and won’t cinsider the work he did to be the problem. So i won’t go back to him.
[quote=”college man” post=66774]P0400-EGR flow failure here some links to help.
http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/44xo0-1999-626-2-5-v6-p0400-egr-flow-failure-common.html
P0443-evap purge solenoid valve.
http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/4dk5s-mazda-626-p0443-fix.html
P)455-Evap system excessive leak
http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/6qft1-mazda-6926-98-mazda-626-throwing-p0455.html%5B/quote%5D
Thatnls for the videos, will deffinitely pick up a dictionary when i get to that 0443. Ha!
I went to the junk yard today and noticed something: the bracked that sandwiched the rubber insert of the mount touches both ends of the mount, the new mount I had installed does not do this. Any new thoughts?
I managed to take the mount off on my own. Time consumming but not too bad, deffinitely gotta buy ratcheting wrenches though.[quote=”college man” post=66774]P0400-EGR flow failure here some links to help.
http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/44xo0-1999-626-2-5-v6-p0400-egr-flow-failure-common.html
P0443-evap purge solenoid valve.
http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/4dk5s-mazda-626-p0443-fix.html
P)455-Evap system excessive leak
http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/6qft1-mazda-6926-98-mazda-626-throwing-p0455.html%5B/quote%5D
Thatnls for the videos, will deffinitely pick up a dictionary when i get to that 0443. Ha!
I went to the junk yard today and noticed something: the bracked that sandwiched the rubber insert of the mount touches both ends of the mount, the new mount I had installed does not do this. Any new thoughts?
I managed to take the mount off on my own. Time consumming but not too bad, deffinitely gotta buy ratcheting wrenches though.It’s okay, I thought the clamp was still loose but my mom took it to a mechanic to look at it and it seems he tightened it. A few new developments though: i had the OBD reader on as as I suspected the check engine bulb isn’t there to light up the indicator because 3 codes were retrieved
P0400
P0443
P0455
Also, i was driving the car today and it jerkes hard gong into secend gear, it’s automatic, as it always has but this time after it went into second gear it’s as if the car didn’t want to accelerate. I would give it gas and the reving engine would sound loud and mugfled as if it was being overworked. And when I let off the gas it jerked hard going back a gear, it never does that. When I got to a stop light and then went to accelerate it was back to normal, only jerk was from gear 1 to 2. Related?It’s okay, I thought the clamp was still loose but my mom took it to a mechanic to look at it and it seems he tightened it. A few new developments though: i had the OBD reader on as as I suspected the check engine bulb isn’t there to light up the indicator because 3 codes were retrieved
P0400
P0443
P0455
Also, i was driving the car today and it jerkes hard gong into secend gear, it’s automatic, as it always has but this time after it went into second gear it’s as if the car didn’t want to accelerate. I would give it gas and the reving engine would sound loud and mugfled as if it was being overworked. And when I let off the gas it jerked hard going back a gear, it never does that. When I got to a stop light and then went to accelerate it was back to normal, only jerk was from gear 1 to 2. Related?