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I have 1990 Accord with capture rotors. I suspected the front driver’s bearing to bad or going bad. I watched all of Eric’s videos and some. Did all the tests but nothing proved of a bad bearing. Zero play, no wobbling and tight handling on the freeway. However, I still have the faint rhythmic sound that I cannot isolate even jacking it up and running the wheels. I guess it needs stress on the wheel to reproduce it. The sound is uniform with the wheel rolling and not intermittently. Thus it’s either axle or bearing. It has no clicking sound when making U turns. I pull and tug on the axle and no play or bad movement. However, the driver’s side axle is original so that could be bad but nothing has proven that.
Now the reason I bought the 2.3CL hub/bearing b/c I am practically broke. But the car needs to be fixed. So I was hoping the bearing would be ok so I don’t have to pay $80 for a pair of new bearings and all the shops around here want $140 to press them out and in. The 2.3CL hub/bearing allow me to do the rotor over hub conversion to get rid of the capture rotor system for good. Since I cannot afford new rims and tires, I have to keep my 14″ steelies. With that means I got to keep the stock caliper to fit under the 14″ tires. I still have to buy new rotors and new pads. The pads I already have, which are cheap Monroe semi-metallic pads but I really want ceramics to avoid dust and lasting longer.
So College Man, that black rubber seal is for the bearing grease hold in? From my observation, the seal is press against the hub and what came off seems to be the sticking out ridge from the seal. If I want to remove the bearing myself, would this from Harbor Freight works for me to separate the bearing from hub without damaging the hub?
On these setup you could only replace the bearing. You cannot buy the whole assemble for $80 each side as the new hub alone is at least $120 each side. These 2.3CL is rare and hard to find without paying big bucks from the dealer. If I could have found them for $80 for each side I would have gone that route without all of this hassles.
Thanks guys.
I have 1990 Accord with capture rotors. I suspected the front driver’s bearing to bad or going bad. I watched all of Eric’s videos and some. Did all the tests but nothing proved of a bad bearing. Zero play, no wobbling and tight handling on the freeway. However, I still have the faint rhythmic sound that I cannot isolate even jacking it up and running the wheels. I guess it needs stress on the wheel to reproduce it. The sound is uniform with the wheel rolling and not intermittently. Thus it’s either axle or bearing. It has no clicking sound when making U turns. I pull and tug on the axle and no play or bad movement. However, the driver’s side axle is original so that could be bad but nothing has proven that.
Now the reason I bought the 2.3CL hub/bearing b/c I am practically broke. But the car needs to be fixed. So I was hoping the bearing would be ok so I don’t have to pay $80 for a pair of new bearings and all the shops around here want $140 to press them out and in. The 2.3CL hub/bearing allow me to do the rotor over hub conversion to get rid of the capture rotor system for good. Since I cannot afford new rims and tires, I have to keep my 14″ steelies. With that means I got to keep the stock caliper to fit under the 14″ tires. I still have to buy new rotors and new pads. The pads I already have, which are cheap Monroe semi-metallic pads but I really want ceramics to avoid dust and lasting longer.
So College Man, that black rubber seal is for the bearing grease hold in? From my observation, the seal is press against the hub and what came off seems to be the sticking out ridge from the seal. If I want to remove the bearing myself, would this from Harbor Freight works for me to separate the bearing from hub without damaging the hub?
On these setup you could only replace the bearing. You cannot buy the whole assemble for $80 each side as the new hub alone is at least $120 each side. These 2.3CL is rare and hard to find without paying big bucks from the dealer. If I could have found them for $80 for each side I would have gone that route without all of this hassles.
Thanks guys.
I don’t work for a dealership, but I do work on quite a few Toyotas, mostly Corollas, and Camrys. I once saw black fluid it an 87 Corolla but I changed the fluid and all was good. All the other cars had red fluid in them.
I don’t work for a dealership, but I do work on quite a few Toyotas, mostly Corollas, and Camrys. I once saw black fluid it an 87 Corolla but I changed the fluid and all was good. All the other cars had red fluid in them.
You need a timing light for the ignition timing check. Why do you need to check? What’s wrong with the car?
You need a timing light for the ignition timing check. Why do you need to check? What’s wrong with the car?
Check your oil to see if any coolant in it, milky color fluid on the cap. Maybe the water pump is toast.
Check your oil to see if any coolant in it, milky color fluid on the cap. Maybe the water pump is toast.
For Japanese imports, I would not flush the fluid. I would just change the fluid. Drop the pan, clean it and put a new filter in, then new fluid. Drive it for a few thousand miles, then just drain the fluid, put in new, without dropping the pan or change the filter again. Fluid suppose to be red.
For Japanese imports, I would not flush the fluid. I would just change the fluid. Drop the pan, clean it and put a new filter in, then new fluid. Drive it for a few thousand miles, then just drain the fluid, put in new, without dropping the pan or change the filter again. Fluid suppose to be red.
Now days, most shops are cheating bastards, they used to charge $35 to press out and in within 10 minutes for both sides. Today they want $140. Harbor Freight Tools sells the bearing kit for only $90 plus tax. You could hammer the old bearings out.
Now days, most shops are cheating bastards, they used to charge $35 to press out and in within 10 minutes for both sides. Today they want $140. Harbor Freight Tools sells the bearing kit for only $90 plus tax. You could hammer the old bearings out.
When was it last replaced. If it has never been, the gasket some times fuse the cover on pretty good. Try using a small pry bar with blunt end to see if you could gently pry it up. Or use a rubber mallet to knock it loose.
When was it last replaced. If it has never been, the gasket some times fuse the cover on pretty good. Try using a small pry bar with blunt end to see if you could gently pry it up. Or use a rubber mallet to knock it loose.
Check your front and rear mount. Fix the front mount first, I guarantee it will reduce the stationary R for sure. It also helps with the D but the vibration might still be there but replace the rear and your car will be almost no vibration. If you want the car to shift a little more smoothly and put more torque to the ground, see if you could get Poly inserts for the front mount. This stops the jumping around of your engine for sure.
[quote=”stavrich” post=35090]Hi all
Honda Accord 2.0, Auto, 1996.
In my un-ending quest to get rid of the annoying vibration when stationary and in D or R
Many Thanks[/quote]