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Could you explain the Valve adjustment bit? Cherry on a Sunday? A little bit of performance increase you mean? Would that increase the smog output?
Thanks.[quote=”Plasmide56″ post=57455]I did not know you use additive already. It’s made a good job as I saw the picture. Ajusting the valve will be the cherry on a sunday. It’s will give you the little biteincrease.[/quote]
Could you explain the Valve adjustment bit? Cherry on a Sunday? A little bit of performance increase you mean? Would that increase the smog output?
Thanks.[quote=”Plasmide56″ post=57455]I did not know you use additive already. It’s made a good job as I saw the picture. Ajusting the valve will be the cherry on a sunday. It’s will give you the little biteincrease.[/quote]
I just use it as I usually do put about 1/3 to 1/2 bottle into the brake booster line toward the intake. I asked b/c my O2 sensor is pretty new.
What about the plugs and cable? Do they turn really black and dark?
Thanks.[quote=”college man” post=57430]sea foam should not hurt the o2 sensor if used as directed.[/quote]
I just use it as I usually do put about 1/3 to 1/2 bottle into the brake booster line toward the intake. I asked b/c my O2 sensor is pretty new.
What about the plugs and cable? Do they turn really black and dark?
Thanks.[quote=”college man” post=57430]sea foam should not hurt the o2 sensor if used as directed.[/quote]
Are we talking about Lucas fuel injected cleaner? How is it different than Seafoam? I have used Seafoam and not much carbon came out of the exhaust. I am not so sure I want to try Scotty’s way with Lacquer thinner or with the detergent soak.
I have used Regane for high mileage cars and redline fuel system cleaner. Now the last time I replaced my spark plugs they were real clean. I had NGK platinum. Now I have the Denso Platinum.
See the picture below. I replace the air hog air filter with a paper one today. I also replace the PCV gasket and put back the OEM PCV valve. The tube was not clogged. When I pull the valve cover off to adjust the valves recently, it was really clean. Now could adjusting the valve cause the smog results to be worse?
[quote=”Plasmide56″ post=57384]A clean up is always good. In California, you have new catalyst whit more platinum in It. So It’s more espensive. As well all people want to change It’s catalyst to meet the governement standart. So the price is even higher. So, try to clean the cat whit Lucas cleaner first. It’s less expensive then 600 us $ + the instalation fee. Because you need to weld the cat on the exauft pipe. A welder plus the right wire (steel or stainless steel) and CO2 gas for MIG welder cost 1000 us $ minimum. So up tp you.[/quote]
Are we talking about Lucas fuel injected cleaner? How is it different than Seafoam? I have used Seafoam and not much carbon came out of the exhaust. I am not so sure I want to try Scotty’s way with Lacquer thinner or with the detergent soak.
I have used Regane for high mileage cars and redline fuel system cleaner. Now the last time I replaced my spark plugs they were real clean. I had NGK platinum. Now I have the Denso Platinum.
See the picture below. I replace the air hog air filter with a paper one today. I also replace the PCV gasket and put back the OEM PCV valve. The tube was not clogged. When I pull the valve cover off to adjust the valves recently, it was really clean. Now could adjusting the valve cause the smog results to be worse?
[quote=”Plasmide56″ post=57384]A clean up is always good. In California, you have new catalyst whit more platinum in It. So It’s more espensive. As well all people want to change It’s catalyst to meet the governement standart. So the price is even higher. So, try to clean the cat whit Lucas cleaner first. It’s less expensive then 600 us $ + the instalation fee. Because you need to weld the cat on the exauft pipe. A welder plus the right wire (steel or stainless steel) and CO2 gas for MIG welder cost 1000 us $ minimum. So up tp you.[/quote]
The thing that really bothers me is all that maintenance and the car gotten worse in terms of smog tests. I think it has to do with the stations I go to. My neighbor has a 91 and it’s in the worse shape I have ever seen a CB7 and it passed at the STAR station today. Under his hood, it’s like a car at the junkyard. But he recently got a new after market cat. Mine should not be of any issue I would hope.
The thing that really bothers me is all that maintenance and the car gotten worse in terms of smog tests. I think it has to do with the stations I go to. My neighbor has a 91 and it’s in the worse shape I have ever seen a CB7 and it passed at the STAR station today. Under his hood, it’s like a car at the junkyard. But he recently got a new after market cat. Mine should not be of any issue I would hope.
Thanks. I appreciated that. I thought I saw the same thing but every thing I searched tell me differently.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=55935]You can pull out the reservoir from the top. Just undo the bolt and pop/lift it out… Takes about 20 seconds IIRC…[/quote]
Thanks. I appreciated that. I thought I saw the same thing but every thing I searched tell me differently.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=55935]You can pull out the reservoir from the top. Just undo the bolt and pop/lift it out… Takes about 20 seconds IIRC…[/quote]
This is the 3 speed auto. I change my oil around 6000 miles. I think it does burn oil a little but not like my old 87 Corolla. No smoke is coming out of the exhaust. I fill it to the max level about a quart every oil change. But since the oil leak never reach the ground, putting in a quart would signifies oil burning rather than due the leak. As for the brakes, the caliper boot is torn on one side but with the new pads I put in, it push the boot in so it won’t expose until the boot are stretched out when the pads worn down. The brakes work well, it works better than my Accord brake, I guess due to the lesser mass of the car. I just don’t like the loud squeak that it makes before the pads and rotors warm up in the morning. Never the less, I want to get this car to a lesser worry point as my Accord. Maybe I am just too paranoid. I have seen cars way worse and still drives ok. I just hate leaks. And the windshield fluid reservoir, I got a new one with a new pump for $38. I could almost never find one of these Corollas at the junkyard, but when I do, they are all stripped or the reservoir is cracked.
To replace the fluid reservoir, do I need to remove the under splash guard? It does not look like I have to for this car. Just one bolt on top and slide out and disconnect the pump.
Thanks for your detail response.[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=55920]Ah, the Value Edition Corolla. Is it a 5 speed or 3 speed automatic? I have noticed that 3 speeds tend to have a shorter life than their 4 and 5 speed brethren…. Something about the higher RPMs…. Anyway, here is my 2 cents…
It seems like your power steering and its components are working well, just a bit of a leak (and none reaching the ground I infer)…. I would definitely put this on the last to do list.. Any car that is this old is bound to get a leak somewhere at sometime, and since it is not going on the ground, I wouldn’t worry about that one too much. The replacement racks are relatively inexpensive for this car (under $200)… and quite frankly, the picture you are showing of the PS rack looks pretty normal considering its age… Now if your boots are full of the red stuff, then get it fixed sooner rather than later…
The timing chain cover…. Really, unless it is dripping and making smoke, I would hold off….
Timing chain tensioner… just replace the O-ring, No need to buy a whole new one. I also do not recommend RTV on the O-ring… If installed properly, you shouldn’t have to replace the O-ring for many thousands of miles…
The Windshield wiper reservoir .. yes, these things go bad… that plastic hardens and chips away like old paint….. I think Dorman makes a reman, but I just get another one from the Junkyard….
Engine mounts… I have no idea why you would want to replace these unless they are bad. The Front is a cake job, the pass side is pretty easy, the driver side a little tougher and the rear mount is a PITA!!!!! Unless cracked or broken, I would leave these alone..
Brakes, Rotor and Caliper… This would be the #1 I would do on your car if they are going bad or are bad…. This saves your life… All the rest is not lifesaving…. Two things I don’t play around with… Brakes and Tires…. If the engine dies you can coast to the side, if a tire blows or your brakes go bad, you can be killed…. JMHO
The big problem with 1.8L on these Gen 8 Corollas are that some are oil burners, that would be my concern if yours is a 3 speed auto (they seem to have the most problem due to the higher RPM)… The oil holes in the piston ring grooves are too small. Many have drilled them larger or added holes to address this issue. I have seen some that have absolutely no engine oil burning problem with 200k…. I really believe a lot about changing the oil regularly (3-6k miles) and you should be able to avoid this problem…[/quote]
This is the 3 speed auto. I change my oil around 6000 miles. I think it does burn oil a little but not like my old 87 Corolla. No smoke is coming out of the exhaust. I fill it to the max level about a quart every oil change. But since the oil leak never reach the ground, putting in a quart would signifies oil burning rather than due the leak. As for the brakes, the caliper boot is torn on one side but with the new pads I put in, it push the boot in so it won’t expose until the boot are stretched out when the pads worn down. The brakes work well, it works better than my Accord brake, I guess due to the lesser mass of the car. I just don’t like the loud squeak that it makes before the pads and rotors warm up in the morning. Never the less, I want to get this car to a lesser worry point as my Accord. Maybe I am just too paranoid. I have seen cars way worse and still drives ok. I just hate leaks. And the windshield fluid reservoir, I got a new one with a new pump for $38. I could almost never find one of these Corollas at the junkyard, but when I do, they are all stripped or the reservoir is cracked.
To replace the fluid reservoir, do I need to remove the under splash guard? It does not look like I have to for this car. Just one bolt on top and slide out and disconnect the pump.
Thanks for your detail response.[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=55920]Ah, the Value Edition Corolla. Is it a 5 speed or 3 speed automatic? I have noticed that 3 speeds tend to have a shorter life than their 4 and 5 speed brethren…. Something about the higher RPMs…. Anyway, here is my 2 cents…
It seems like your power steering and its components are working well, just a bit of a leak (and none reaching the ground I infer)…. I would definitely put this on the last to do list.. Any car that is this old is bound to get a leak somewhere at sometime, and since it is not going on the ground, I wouldn’t worry about that one too much. The replacement racks are relatively inexpensive for this car (under $200)… and quite frankly, the picture you are showing of the PS rack looks pretty normal considering its age… Now if your boots are full of the red stuff, then get it fixed sooner rather than later…
The timing chain cover…. Really, unless it is dripping and making smoke, I would hold off….
Timing chain tensioner… just replace the O-ring, No need to buy a whole new one. I also do not recommend RTV on the O-ring… If installed properly, you shouldn’t have to replace the O-ring for many thousands of miles…
The Windshield wiper reservoir .. yes, these things go bad… that plastic hardens and chips away like old paint….. I think Dorman makes a reman, but I just get another one from the Junkyard….
Engine mounts… I have no idea why you would want to replace these unless they are bad. The Front is a cake job, the pass side is pretty easy, the driver side a little tougher and the rear mount is a PITA!!!!! Unless cracked or broken, I would leave these alone..
Brakes, Rotor and Caliper… This would be the #1 I would do on your car if they are going bad or are bad…. This saves your life… All the rest is not lifesaving…. Two things I don’t play around with… Brakes and Tires…. If the engine dies you can coast to the side, if a tire blows or your brakes go bad, you can be killed…. JMHO
The big problem with 1.8L on these Gen 8 Corollas are that some are oil burners, that would be my concern if yours is a 3 speed auto (they seem to have the most problem due to the higher RPM)… The oil holes in the piston ring grooves are too small. Many have drilled them larger or added holes to address this issue. I have seen some that have absolutely no engine oil burning problem with 200k…. I really believe a lot about changing the oil regularly (3-6k miles) and you should be able to avoid this problem…[/quote]
