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Quoted From Trcustoms719:
I’m about to buy a pedal pumper cause that is the best way i think but, i never have anyone to pump the brakes for me so the pedal pumper will be perfect.
Where do buy the pedal pumper? If wife is a little more knowledgeable about cars, I would use her but she’s totally useless when it comes to cars or computers. What’s worse she likes to argue. LOL.
Quoted From twiggy02919:
I bought one at Harbor Freight using a 20% off coupon. Haven’t had a chance to use it yet.
Are you serious, HFT carries it now? I was a manager for one of the stores and never seen it. Do you happen to know the SKU#?
Is it that? http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-flui … 92924.html
I didn’t even realize that this was like teh Motive Power Bleeder. I have one of those 2 gallon air compressor used mainly for tires, would it works with this?Thanks.
I hate that big axle nut. It’s nuts to get off without air tools. Why does Honda torture us like this? Lol.
Never flush Honda’s transmission. Use only Honda’s appropriate fluid that means there’s fluid for auto and manual. Check the dip stick with the car off and level. Here’s a link on transmission trouble shooting for Honda’s. http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
Honda’s transmission fluid service is pretty easy.Good luck.
All I know is that Hondas must use only Hondas fluid. Not only that, never flush a Honda Transmission.
Unfortunately, I would rather go to the dentist than visit a car shop now days. Except for transmission and cooling systems. I found 2 great ones. I live in California and every time I walk into a shop and this is for real and it has happened 3X, they ask if I speak Spanish. I just walked out of the shop and told them, my car does not understand you.
So how would you perform this test on a 99 Corolla? The wires on the coil pack has plastic clips on each wire and very close together. It’s difficult to unplug when the engine is running. I don’t want to get zap when unplugging the cable from the pack.
Thanks.So where is the link for this video so I can buy it? I have a 90 Accord LX. The belt was done by a Honda certified with the previous owner at 107k miles. The car has 152k miles now. Recommended change is at 90k. I just want it when the time comes.
As soon as I get a job, I am going start replacing old parts like bushings and stuffs. I want to revamp this car.Thanks.
Does the car shakes when you are in reverse? If yes then the front torque mount is totally gone. Are you the original owner of the car? If the car does not shake in reverse, and only shake in neutral or idle, and you are not the original owner, look at the front torque mount. It might be the last owner replace it with a polyurethane mount, which is much stiffer and cause the car to shake a little more at idle as mine is. However, more torque goes to the ground and the gas pedal is a little more responsive.
If engine mounts are bad the clunking sound are usually cause by the 2 side ones. The shakes is more of the front and rear.
With all that and I forgot to ask you what kind of shake is it? Is it really bad? As intolerable or just minor shakes?
Good luck.It’s a number game bud. Everyone is in the same situation. I am in the same situation too. The problem with me, is too much experience listed on the resume. My resume is for retail management. I have lots of experience but no certifications. I can do PCs, Mac, Linux, network, and software testing and hacking but without certificates, they won’t even look at me. Even if they would pay me less. If you don’t have the money to pay for professional resume help, look around online or even use MS Office could help.
Good luck. Let’s go out there and snatch those jobs.You get what you pay for most of the time but not all the time. However, for the front brakes, I would buy a little better quality pads as it’s about 70% of the braking power. Do you have rear drum or disc? The drum shoes last a bit longer. My car pedal was a little low as well and it takes at least 8 clicks for the hand brake to stick. So I adjust it myself to about 4 clicks and the pedal feels good and no more nose dive. The rear shoes on my car is still original and I am going to replace them next week if it warrants that. I have OEM brake pads in the front put on by the previous owner and it’s been 57K miles and the pads are still about 40% or more left.
But with the cheap pads, get at least the life time warranty ones and if you are going to utilize the life time warranty, buy with Autozone. They never gave me issues even the pads are all worn down. My Corolla spark plugs wires are 6 years old and I exchange them every 2 years without any issue.
I hope the info helps you.
Bleed the brakes dude. I am serious, bleed the brakes. The Accord master cylinders don’t take insults as well as other imports. Lube the slide pins, and pads/caliper areas. Don’t go nuts on the grease. I lube my slide pins every 30K miles just to keep the brakes working well and the pad wear even.Good luck. DO NOT RUSH when working on brakes.