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February 15, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: 99 Corolla Ve Throttle Cable Adjustment. The car bogs down a #442245
I think it’s bad for the transmission if you have 3 speed and going at 50 mph or more to kick down from the 3rd gear. I saw that video but the loose part of the cable is on the top over and not where that dude is describing it.
Thanks.That breaker bar looks intimidating. Unfortunately, I don’t see that once every blue moon that I work in the axle area to justify the cost of it. I would have to buy a 36mm 1″ drive socket too. Expensive. How’s the end hinch holding up? I weigh only 137 lbs and 5’10” , not much torque from me. But I have seen many broken breaker bar 24″ from the hinches.
Thanks.
February 15, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: Rhythmic sound and feeling, and faint steering shakes. #453269I am taking the car to the tire place tomorrow for inspection of that tire and rotate it to the back. The struts are original and never replaced. The shock rubber bushings are probably gone.
Dreamer2355, I already saw that video a few days ago. Nothing like that.is happening on my car. I suspect the tire as it happens right after the rotation. I didn’t hit any big pot holes or bumps. But the tire has about 25k miles on it and I have been rotating them every 5000 miles.Thanks.
February 15, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: Rhythmic sound and feeling, and faint steering shakes. #453272Quoted From Beefy:
If it just occurred following a tire balance and rotation, I would definitely suspect the tires. Did you say the tires are newer?
Oh no. The tires are not new. But it has lots of life left. I only put about 25,000 miles on them. But I got them Jan. 3, 2008. I bought them cheap but they have been great. Though they are all seasons but SoCal only have 2 seasons, hot and warmer/cooler.
Thanks.
Quoted From Beefy:
This car probably does have a TV cable (throttle valve) that might need adjusting. Eric also did a video on adjusting Honda throttle cables (not the TV cable, the one to the throttle plate), lemme go find it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rawvJop772E
There it is.
Lol. I saw that video a while ago and have already adjusted the cable. It didn’t fix the problem. Before I forget. I have already replace the fuel filter twice.
Thanks.
I have never done it on my car but I know my 90 LX Accord, the driver’s side will need it soon. I help my friend fixed his 92 Accord quite a few years ago. We thought it was the attenuator that was failing but it turns out it was not that. We just took the whole mechanism apart and lube every thing and it worked again. It’s been 5 years now. But we actually bought a used OEM attenuator on Ebay for $15. Like every thing that you do for the first time, take a picture. I was taking things apart while my friend was taking pictures with each step. While you are in there lube your power windows too, especially if you have a coupe. Those thing sag and make noise like an old lady when they get old.
Good luck.
You have to be dirty and stay dirty to search efficiently. Lol.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
It can be done without air tools with a little effort.
To be honest, if I have a garage or an independent storage, I could do it. Around my apt complex, when I did my ball joints, too many eyes looking and a few told on me to the apt. manager. She never said any thing.
I really want to do it.I had a link on this DIY. This guide was done for people who want LED bulbs in their cars and those that had trouble with the brake lamp staying on. I had that problem and what I did was removed the little brown box on the driver’s side rear brake light housing. I clean it and check the contacts, and the lamp went off. The only time you would want to bypass it is b/c you installed LED bulbs which will cause low current draws and the brake lamp will stay on all the time. You can also short the box and have it off all the time.
Let me see if I can find that link for you.Ask and you shall receive. I found this link with pictures, perhaps it could help youl
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3009319Good luck.
I wish I have a garage or a storage space that I can work on my car. That way, on big jobs like this, I could take my time to do it in 2 days. The apt complex where I live don’t allow big job with parts every where.
Hey Eric, that link you gave us, does that hot Sport Illustrated chic included? LMAO.
I have a friend with a house and an almost empty garage. He’s 20 minutes from my apt. But I hate going over there as he has no tools what so ever and if I forget some thing, I can’t get the job done that same day. I rent a storage 10X10 to put my junk and my wife’s junk in there. All of my cheap tools are there. So I have to make a trip every time before a job. My apt manager and I are pretty tight. I fixed her computer a few times so she’s pretty cool with me. It’s funny my wife asked for a new toilet and she said no. A week later, I went out fixed her computer and got us a new toilet, the whole apt painted, new carpets, bathroom clean, new sink and new faucets. My wife totally trusts me. If it was my ex gf, she would have gone crazy thinking me the manager was into some thing.
I am just adding stuffs to my knowledge. Just like Run DMC said, Knowledge is King. I learn about computers, I can build a computer with eyes closed. I’ll fix anything that is a PC. I learned about Mac. Car repairs and now working smart phones. I got an MD degreed but my license expired. I gave that up as there was too much politic in treating patients now days. I was pretty close to moving to England where you get more hands on patient contacts. I think I am going to save up for my MBA soon. I want to get a government job.February 14, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: Is silicon paste all that different from di-electric grease? #448252The problem is the silicone listed in the tools section shows $17 some thing and click on the link it shows $21 some thing. Price gone up a bit.
I use the sil-glyde I buy from Napa. It’s recommended for brakes and slide pins.About your brake light sensor, if you are using any thing other than the stock bulb, for example LED, the warning will stay on. LEDs draw less current thus giving the signal as the bulb is out. There are 3 ways:
1) Ignore the warning light if all the bulbs are working.
2) Bypass the brown box on the rear brake light housing thus the warning stays off but it won’t tell you if another bulb is out later.
3) Put a resistor on it to induce the correct current draw so the warning light is off.As for brake bulb sensors, I have a 90 LX Accord and it has that. How many miles do you have on the car? Mine has 152K miles and no ignition switch issue yet. I did replace the main relay. Listen for the fuel pump when turning the ignition on. Yes, turn off the stereo. Lol.
Good luck.
Got it. That file is almost 500MB.
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