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I watched this video and Brian actually showed me what was happening and what to do to fix this problem. What I did earlier didn’t help, it came back. Now I have found the fix.
I figured it out. Trying to make sense of why this would happen and nothing helped until I thought about it some more. Corrosion at the battery terminal would not allow the car to charge. As the battery charge got lower and lower, it would start but as the battery voltage dropped little by little due to the corrosion it was getting insufficient voltage to the components that required a proper amount. Starting the car allowed to components to work correctly an everything was normal. It was while the car wasn’t running that problems arose. Driving long distances allowed the battery to charge enough to stop the perimeter lights to go off. But soon it would come back. Cleaning the terminals and then going for a drive eliminated the problems.
I took advice to replace the brakes and installed new rotors. Eric recommends using silicone paste to lubricate the slides in the brake calipers. It’s been a change from night to day with the change in driving this vehicle. No more shaking when braking. Looked like I didn’t need a brake job but having the inferior parts removed and installing superior parts is worth the money. Highly recommend using the best parts you can buy.
This may take a few times to do this. I tried to hook up another jumper type battery used for emergency usage. It drained that battery down fairly quickly. There was still not enough to start the vehicle. May have to do it several times charging the emergency battery in order to get a high enough charge on this drained battery to get a battery charger on it so it can charge.
At 41:33 I now see where Eric used the impact to tighten the bolt. Seeing that bolt before he put the wheel on and the silvery shiny surface makes it look like it wasn’t tightened. I have a habit of checking on various connections after I complete a job to make sure that I don’t miss anything. Problem for me is having someone helping me work on something and they don’t check. That is when things go wrong.
I actually had a neighbor insist on helping me work on his vehicle. I should have refused. He put the tire back on and before I could check anything he was in a hurry to drive it around. Ended up he forgot to tighten down the wheel lug nuts and he took it to someone else. They went over what I had done and couldn’t find anything wrong with my work. As he was leaving the owner of the garage was standing next to the truck and saw the loose wheel with the loose lug nuts as he was driving away.This is an intermittent problem and happened again yesterday. I had someone with me when it happened and they verified that the air was going to the defroster when going uphill at speed. With that little piece of knowledge, I found someone that fixed it.
Realfixes/realfast has addressed this online so I thought I’d pass this along.
I appreciate what you had to say. I’m thinking that there is nothing wrong with the electrical (alternator and battery) simply because the voltmeter is registering about 14 volts and it starts and runs fine. When the alternator had gone bad before the truck would not run well.
I have checked for a cabin air filter on this truck and discovered that it never had a place for one. I did look into having to buy the parts that held the cabin filter and install one but that is way way down on my radar. I do agree at this time that the blower motor may be at fault even though it seems to work fine most all the time with the exception of climbing at speed. As far as the actuator is concerned I’m thinking that there would be a change of air moving from one area to another like to the defroster, I just hear the motor die out during these climbs. I’m just hoping that there may be another explanation I’ve not considered.I put 2 cans of refrigerant in the truck a couple of months ago, it cools very well. Just the blower slows down and stops when climbing overpasses at speed. Thinking either the actuator is diverting the air flow or the blower itself is somehow not getting power. Just not sure.
I’ve had a chance to think about this answer some more and driven the truck in differrent weather. Seems the weather has a factor as when I first wrote this, the temperature was around 100 degrees or so. We’ve had storms and the temperature has dropped into the 70’s and 80’s and when traveling the same road the blower no longer cuts out when climbing the overpasses. Also the air coming out of the vents are not as cold either.