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sorry for not updating sooner. the pads got quiet after some time of driving, but then it came back again. i noticed that when it did go away the rotor was clean and shiny, and when the scrapping noise came back the rotor was dirty. i kept cleaning the rotor with brake cleaner and for a couple of blocks it would actually not be there. then as soon as i used brakes it came back. hmmmm. also the gap/clearance between the rotor and caliper is very little. The driver side is fine and has plenty of clearance and no scrapping noise. Also it’s always clean and shiny. kinda dumbfounded right now. i changed the brake retainer clips to see if that was the problem, but did not change anything.
as a warning , i have Wagner Brake parts . i got mine from rock auto. i ordered a set of rear brakes about a year ago, so when my rear brakes would finally wear off i would have a set in hand. The problem was that the brake retainer clips did not fit the rear calipers. I couldn’t get them to sit flush even if i really pressed hard on them. I Called rock auto and was informed that the Wagner company tweaks their products to fit multiple cars.
you can try and go to celica forums and ask . they will know more than us. also someone can rent tools at autozone or orielly or NAPA. to get the bearing out and in.
[quote=”Bluesnut” post=129168] tendency to leave your hand resting on the gearshift lever.[/quote]
whoops i do that all the time , i didn’t know that did anything.also about the person that rebuilt it , i don’t wanna go back because things didn’t end in a good way.
btw how long can i leave it as it is? i’m asking because i keep pouring money into my car and something keeps going wrong.i always thought if the transmission goes bad prematurely , i think i would just get a another car and let the current one die in peace. anyone know how much would it cost to replace the tranny with a used one? how about rebuilding it again?
he gave me 12k miles or 1 year. its passed both ends . i didn’t get a look at the gear oil. i remember it was brown .
idk if this helps but , it always felt like when i put it in some gears , it wouldn’t go all the way in.
my car doesn’t have a tranny dipstick , i have to get under there and unscrew a bolt that’s in the tranny. i put mt-90 last year. around may. didn’t* get a look at it.
hi just an update , i replaced the whole control arm and as i suspected the hole that the ball joint sits in had gotten too wide. when the mechanic took it out i decided to see what’s up and i could jiggle the ball joint up and down … it wasn’t the thread / ball itself they where solid . I asked my mechanic to put some anti seize on the 22 mm bolt that goes through the LCA and 3 other smaller bolts 14mm that bolt to the under side of the car , and he put some on the threads so it won’t get stuck in the knuckle . I was wondering if all this was o.k. to do .
hey guys going to go an replace my LCA , just wondering if you have any tips on getting the ball joint out of the knuckle , i know hitting it with a hammer but if that doesn’t work , what else can i do ? i have a torch btw . also any videos or threads you think that may help post it here , hopefully all goes well . last time i couldn’t get the ball joint out , i had to take it to the mechanic. i tried the pickle for , doesn’t work
so i have decided to buy a new LCA , i wanted to buy one that’s grease able but there seems to be non for my car ? i look under rockauto.com, my car is a 2001 nissan sentra 2.0 SE , i look under the 1.8 L section and all LCA’s that supposed to fit my car(2.0 SE) fit the 1.8L, but the 1.8L has the moog greaseable . under my car section it doesn’t have it? should i go ahead and buy that moog LCA or just stick with the doorman , which has performance package … my vehicle uses performance package parts.
ball joint is slipping out of the control arm . i guess the hole got too big, normally the ball joint didn’t have splines on it , the new one did but thought it might provide a tighter fit.
BUMP! problem solved it was the rubber bushings on the crossmember ,i’ll upload pics later on what i’m now using and the hold ones , the one on the front where fine , the one at the rear where crap , all dried out. noise all gone.
BUMP! problem solved it was the rubber bushings on the crossmember ,i’ll upload pics later on what i’m now using and the hold ones , the one on the front where fine , the one at the rear where crap , all dried out. noise all gone.
BUMP! I may have solved the problem , it has to do with my crossmember . so i was going to change my front and rear motor mounts and took off the crossmember . mounts didn’t fit so i bolted everything back up , went for a drive to make sure i bolted everything down won’t come out while hitting bumps , the jingle disappeared. although now there’s a metal on metal squeak because the bushings on the crossmember are uneven and some flat.
today i changed my brakes for the front , first time doing a brake job . no squeals while driving or braking . no smoke while braking either . after i was done i took a look at my crossmember bolts and tried to torque them down some more. a couple bolts budged and torqued down a little .went to test my brakes and for a short while the sound from the crossmember went away but came back .
BUMP! I may have solved the problem , it has to do with my crossmember . so i was going to change my front and rear motor mounts and took off the crossmember . mounts didn’t fit so i bolted everything back up , went for a drive to make sure i bolted everything down won’t come out while hitting bumps , the jingle disappeared. although now there’s a metal on metal squeak because the bushings on the crossmember are uneven and some flat.
today i changed my brakes for the front , first time doing a brake job . no squeals while driving or braking . no smoke while braking either . after i was done i took a look at my crossmember bolts and tried to torque them down some more. a couple bolts budged and torqued down a little .went to test my brakes and for a short while the sound from the crossmember went away but came back .
hey people just an update the sound is still there i changed the driver side ball joint , and still i hear this weird squeak . happens mostly now when the car drives over bumps , just like a big rig when it goes over bumps it goes squeak squeak . i didn’t really check for any loose metal while i was down there but everything look tightened down, but what definitely needs replacing is the passenger side ball joint , stabilizer bar endlinks on both sides… Not sure about the bar bushing, didn’t check that.
btw changing the ball joint was a pain in the ass! took 6 hours to do it because no adapters were really usable for my car because the damn clamp was too short , so if it was just 3″ longer i would of had a easier time .
i happened to find a video that makes the same sound as my car.