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Poor diagnosis on my part. I had a friend sit in the passenger seat and he could hear it too. However, the passenger rear seemed very smooth, no noise, no play. I guess I need to look at the front bearings, and check the axles while I’m at it. On the plus side, the rear bearing/hub assembly is held on by 4 17 mm bolts and drops right off with no effort once they are removed. It only took me an hour to replace.
Thanks for the reply. I just read through the FAQs on this and it says the same thing. Start with the axle, then maybe the other axle too. If that doesn’t do it then look for other issues.
The only wheel with play was the driver’s side rear (very little play). So I replaced it and the hum continues.
That was a great tutorial. Unfortunately I don’t have a hub tamer, nor have I ever used one. I don’t have the axle nut socket. My impact wrench died last summer. I am really handicapped on this one. What is the catastrophic failure like? How long can I put this off? And how do I know which bearing is bad?
Also the commenter who mentioned storms is dead on. I went through some high standing water during a bad storm last week.
And strangely enough Toyota Camry 4 cylinder engines during similar model years also had excessive oil consumption issues. An owner did a Youtube video of his experience. Is this like the airbag issue that many manufacturers used the same supplier for the related parts?
Apparently you missed the posts about 2008 – 2011 Accords with 4 cylinder engines having excessive oil usage problems. In this case there is an issue to be concerned about.
Sorry to hear about this Joseph and I hope it works out for you. If you really want to keep the car then having an engine that has been rebuilt using upgraded components seems like the only way to go. If you don’t do it that way you risk getting an engine in worse shape than what you have now. Plus I don’t know for sure but I would guess the warranty would be void on a replacement part, in this case the engine. If it were me I would want to control the process so I would let the insurance company pay for the used engine then I would take it to the rebuilder of my choice to get the top and bottom end done. Plus new timing pulleys, etc. If you can find a good reputable shop that will perform the entire process through installing the rebuilt engine, even better. Just make sure you find someone reputable, and qualified. If it costs a little more for the best guy around it will be well worth it in the long run.
Eric would have a lot more valuable input here. I think it depends on the dealer. If you are a repeat customer I would talk to the service manager and remind him of that. You may also want to ask some questions about the work that Honda has authorized in the past for this problem. There may also be a scenario where Honda pays for some work and you pay for some extra stuff like pistons, and rods. That may allow the service department to make some extra money in addition to what Honda pays for recall work. Which isn’t very much according to Eric. But I wouldn’t offer anything unless I thought Honda would be doing something. Just some suggestions to be taken with a grain of salt.
Found a used 09, and 2010 – both are $700. But there will be the risk of them having the same problem.
So it is the age old lesson that you get what you pay for. Personally I would rather do without the so called improvements like TPMS. I would love to get rid of that. The cost cutting does show in the little things like chrome vs. cheap matte plastic in the interior. I bought my cars in August during the model year closeout and paid $17,400 for the 2004, and $18,350 for the 2010. I think that tells most of the story.
Unfortunately for me I drive about 30,000 miles per year and need a reliable appliance of a car. And I need one soon so I have to figure out what will work now.
The problem is that the warranty was extended to 125,000 miles but my car had 150,000+ miles at the time I received the letter. I called Honda twice, got the case escalated to a third person who echoed the others in telling me they would not help me. So I am kinda on my own. I am just trying to get the car to as good a place as possible so I can determine for myself if it is using an excessive amount of oil. I also own a 2004 Accord with the 2.4 in it that does not use any oil between oil changes and it has 176,000 miles on it. New 2004 vs. new 2010 would result in the 2004 being declared a superior vehicle in nearly every way in spite of the updates to the model. It isn’t a mileage issue when you can compare the 2004 and 2010. I have always used full synthetic oil in both cars since they came from the factory with synthetic blend oil. I found it easier to just go with full synthetic since there are more choices that way.
I have owned Hondas for the past 17 years, and only Hondas for about the last 12 but I plan to sell the ones I have and never buy another.