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I agree. High beams, a/c on, radio on, and the revs ~1750; as long as you see at least 13.0 at the battery consistently and no more than 15.0 volts it’s okay. To be sure, check the output at the alternator and compare it to the battery for piece of mind. You shouldn’t be more than 0.5V off from each other. Also when rebuilt, the output is checked at the alt., not at the end of a cable, so you might be losing a few tenths.
I agree. High beams, a/c on, radio on, and the revs ~1750; as long as you see at least 13.0 at the battery consistently and no more than 15.0 volts it’s okay. To be sure, check the output at the alternator and compare it to the battery for piece of mind. You shouldn’t be more than 0.5V off from each other. Also when rebuilt, the output is checked at the alt., not at the end of a cable, so you might be losing a few tenths.
I’ve always had a habit of using PB Blaster. As a penetrating oil, I don’t think it will make much of a difference if the reason a nut is super tight with rust so much that the stud and nut have nearly fused. In that case the oil will not penetrate past the fused point unless allowed to saturate and hopefully break down the oxidation. I have sprayed studs in front of the bad nut, taken the nut off, and seen oil residue at the base of the stud, even on studs that are upside down. Bolts are more difficult because the oil has to try to get under the head of the bolt first not to mention then try to work down the threads. It won’t work in every situation.
Or you could just say it’s a placebo tool. Maybe it would have been that much more difficult to loosen something or maybe it would have been exactly the same.
Liquid Wrench does seem kinda watery compared to PB though…
I’ve always had a habit of using PB Blaster. As a penetrating oil, I don’t think it will make much of a difference if the reason a nut is super tight with rust so much that the stud and nut have nearly fused. In that case the oil will not penetrate past the fused point unless allowed to saturate and hopefully break down the oxidation. I have sprayed studs in front of the bad nut, taken the nut off, and seen oil residue at the base of the stud, even on studs that are upside down. Bolts are more difficult because the oil has to try to get under the head of the bolt first not to mention then try to work down the threads. It won’t work in every situation.
Or you could just say it’s a placebo tool. Maybe it would have been that much more difficult to loosen something or maybe it would have been exactly the same.
Liquid Wrench does seem kinda watery compared to PB though…
No, you are not supposed to put anything on the stud that could impede accurate torque readings.
In reality, yes you can use a little bit of anti seize by putting some on the stud and running the nut down and then back off so it spreads even. Clean off any globs and then torque to spec, not with an impact, unless you have a torq-stick.
Rust sucks.
No, you are not supposed to put anything on the stud that could impede accurate torque readings.
In reality, yes you can use a little bit of anti seize by putting some on the stud and running the nut down and then back off so it spreads even. Clean off any globs and then torque to spec, not with an impact, unless you have a torq-stick.
Rust sucks.
I agree. Remove and clean the caliper pins and bores thoroughly and apply the proper lubricant. RTV is not a luricant.
Permatex makes a nice brake lube, but i believe SilGlyde is the best.I agree. Remove and clean the caliper pins and bores thoroughly and apply the proper lubricant. RTV is not a luricant.
Permatex makes a nice brake lube, but i believe SilGlyde is the best.Hey, my name is Ryan and i’m a Ford dealer technician. I’ve been there almost 8 years and tend to specialize in interior and suspension work. I get most of the recalls, NVH concerns, water leaks, electrical issues, warranty concerns, basically anything that is a problem with warranty time or a wild goose chase. I worked at meineke doing custom exhaust and services as well as Advance Auto Parts before Ford. ASEs in Brakes and Steeing & Suspension. Ford certified in electrical, St&Susp, Nvh, A/C. Waiting to go to brake classes next year. It’s a long waitlist because all the other techs have to go to a class that has a deadline for early next year. Anywho…
You gotta think outside of the box with this stuff so any help i can give i will.
Hey, my name is Ryan and i’m a Ford dealer technician. I’ve been there almost 8 years and tend to specialize in interior and suspension work. I get most of the recalls, NVH concerns, water leaks, electrical issues, warranty concerns, basically anything that is a problem with warranty time or a wild goose chase. I worked at meineke doing custom exhaust and services as well as Advance Auto Parts before Ford. ASEs in Brakes and Steeing & Suspension. Ford certified in electrical, St&Susp, Nvh, A/C. Waiting to go to brake classes next year. It’s a long waitlist because all the other techs have to go to a class that has a deadline for early next year. Anywho…
You gotta think outside of the box with this stuff so any help i can give i will.
