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I would check for slack in the throttle cable. It’s strange that it would have that much slack in it, but it’s a good first place to start.
I would check for slack in the throttle cable. It’s strange that it would have that much slack in it, but it’s a good first place to start.
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Sorry. Didn’t realize that there were multiple pages to this thread. Still getting the hang of things here. My bad.
**THIS POST HAS BEEN DELETED**
Sorry. Didn’t realize that there were multiple pages to this thread. Still getting the hang of things here. My bad.
Well guys, got the truck back yesterday and it turns out it was indeed warped rear rotors. They were so warped in fact, that the pads were only really making contact in two places as the rotor spun. It was just a coincidence that we had played with the fluid at the same time.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Cheers!Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
If it sat for a couple of weeks as you say and it’s a humid climate it could have been ‘flash rust’. This is rust that occurs on brake rotors sometimes after it rains or in high humid conditions, normally it doesn’t cause a problem if the vehicle doesn’t sit for too long but if it sits for a long period like this the rotor will get rusty everywhere except where the brake pads are causing a ‘clean spot’ which when the brakes are applied will translate into a brake pulsation. BTW this happens a LOT with cheep brake rotors.
I also thought about that, though because brakes are kinda important and the truck is so big (our jack won’t lift it-too heavy-and tall-and it just about fills the entire garage when its parked in there)we’re gonna bring it in for our mechanic to look over. Will post the findings in a bit.
Quoted From Shaun_300:
Everyday on my road tests I go by a plant where this Mazda Speed 3 wagon takes up 2-3 spots in a factory parking lot parking completely sideways. Must think his car is a Ferrari or something…
Good thing the lines show you how to park..
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
The only thing that can cause a brake pulsation is warped brake parts so don’t rule out a problem with the rotors as the cause even if they’re new, keep in mind it could also be coming from the rear. The hydraulic fluid is only for the assist and has nothing to do with vibrations. I suppose it could also be ABS activation but I don’t think so.
Thanks for the quick reply, Eric. I was wondering if it could be a problem with the ABS, but then again, the fluid still wouldn’t have anything to do with it. Is it just a coincidence that we played with the fluid level at the same time as something else was going wrong? The strange part is it hadn’t been driven in about 2 1/2 weeks and it was fine before that. Last question-I promise. 🙂 What could cause the rotors to warp like that besides heat? Could humidity/dampness play a part in that?
Its technically my dad’s, though its close enough to being mine… Got it last year when I turned 17 (though its been a part of the family since 2003.) A 1991 Honda Accord EX-R CB7. The thing runs amazingly considering its 21 years old. Shifts clean, doesn’t burn oil
Quoted From spelunkerd:
Years ago I had a Honda with a very rare intermittent problem where the engine would sputter and die, and not start for a few hours. It was really frustrating, and I never found a solution. Too bad I don’t have the car now, it would be fun to have another go. But it was so rusty I don’t think anything would be left of it now, ha ha.
I know what you mean about the rust. Mine is getting there, too. Its only got ~180,000 kms on it and running great (it doesn’t even burn oil and the A/C works
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
In Canada it’s been mandated that all vehicles sold there have DRL’s, I can’t remember when that started however but it’s been like that for some time.
Thanks for posting the fix as it goes on to help others that use the search function that have similar problems and thank you for using the ETCG forum.
I believe they started that in 1990
Alright, looked around and found some wiring diagrams (though I must have the wrong ones because I don’t see any mention of the DRL system.) I’ve found out something else, though. The lighting module on these models have solder joints that are prone to cracking. I have a feeling that this might be the case with my car. I’ve been told that it should be above the drivers’ feet behind the dash, behind a removable panel. I’ll take a look and report back.
Thanks for your help! 🙂
Andrew