Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Ah ok, sorry for the post then. I stopped watching after you mentioned in the beginning that YouTube questions wouldn’t be answered (I think you meant live during the broadcast, which I understand), but then I also saw “Questions posted to the YouTube video will not be answered.” in your commentary on the YouTube video, so I wasn’t sure if that included all questions posted to the YouTube video.
Yes, I watched that video where you talked about what you liked about it, of course.
Please, do more videos with/about your Vigor! 😉
Hi Eric,
I posted this to the YouTube video comments section, not knowing that you wouldn’t look there for questions to answer. 😆 So here is the repeat:
Eric, I just bought an Acura Vigor, so we’re brothers in a way, LOL! Mine is a 94 and I am curious to know what your opinion is in regard to parts availability now that you have owned yours for a while? I specifically remember that the Acura 2.5 TXV wouldn’t fit the Vigor, for example. So did your A/C ever work? Parts availability concerns me a little, though the previous owner claimed that there was lots of aftermarket stuff available. Thanks!
Hey Eric,
I watched your leakdown test video again tonight (saw it for the first time shortly after it came out, dontchaknow). I had a question regarding that tester you used. It seems that all leakdown testers that are on the market come with a regulator for the inlet pressure. I was curious: why is that? Couldn’t you just regulate the inlet pressure at the source, say the compressor outlet? Is the concern the fact that there could be a drop in pressure (albeit somewhat small) between the compressor outlet and the leakdown tester inlet, depending on how long the hose was?
I saw a couple of videos about how to build one and thought it would make a good Saturday afternoon project, but was wondering about the regulator.
Thanks!
Hey Eric,
I watched your leakdown test video again tonight (saw it for the first time shortly after it came out, dontchaknow). I had a question regarding that tester you used. It seems that all leakdown testers that are on the market come with a regulator for the inlet pressure. I was curious: why is that? Couldn’t you just regulate the inlet pressure at the source, say the compressor outlet? Is the concern the fact that there could be a drop in pressure (albeit somewhat small) between the compressor outlet and the leakdown tester inlet, depending on how long the hose was?
I saw a couple of videos about how to build one and thought it would make a good Saturday afternoon project, but was wondering about the regulator.
Thanks!
Understood, and thank you for the information!
I asked the question only because I am trying to design my tester with the richest feature set that I can create within the timeframe that I have to work on it. And knowing how to assess individual compression readings within a given cylinder is a part of that.
Thanks again much!
Understood, and thank you for the information!
I asked the question only because I am trying to design my tester with the richest feature set that I can create within the timeframe that I have to work on it. And knowing how to assess individual compression readings within a given cylinder is a part of that.
Thanks again much!
Hi Eric,
Thank you so much for the reply! Funny, but one of the reasons I asked this question is because I have been developing my own digital compression tester. I looked at Innova’s 5612 last night. Interesting design. Has some neat features, but I think their math was a bit off WRT the variance, so I sent them email explaining why. ‘Doubt they’ll reply, but hey, no big thing.
Anyway, that tester wouldn’t fit the need that I am trying to meet. So I’ll press on with my stuff and perhaps come up with some metric for determining what these numbers mean. Or perhaps I’ll take a page out of Eric’s book and choose to ignore it as a factor in my automated diagnosis code.
Thanks again!
Hi Eric,
Thank you so much for the reply! Funny, but one of the reasons I asked this question is because I have been developing my own digital compression tester. I looked at Innova’s 5612 last night. Interesting design. Has some neat features, but I think their math was a bit off WRT the variance, so I sent them email explaining why. ‘Doubt they’ll reply, but hey, no big thing.
Anyway, that tester wouldn’t fit the need that I am trying to meet. So I’ll press on with my stuff and perhaps come up with some metric for determining what these numbers mean. Or perhaps I’ll take a page out of Eric’s book and choose to ignore it as a factor in my automated diagnosis code.
Thanks again!
While I can understand – and even agree with – Eric’s POV on the subject, I’ll have to take a 1/2 dissenting opinion. That is, “it depends” would be my answer. Lord Ihcalam and others have already stated various use cases that would result in one decision versus the other, which is the essence of my argument/position on the matter. That said, I’ll provide one additional scenario where a rebuild is usually the way you go, though clearly there are exceptions.
As a rotary engine enthusiast, once you find yourself with a tired engine, you have little choice but a rebuild. Though “rebuild” has a slightly different meaning on our world. And sure, there are used rotaries out there but they aren’t likely to be much better than what you already have. You may get a few hundred or even thousand miles out of one but it is more likely that it’ll break down prior to the point in time that you had planned for it to last. I have two 12As just sitting in my workshop ready to drop in … if I wanted to go that route, but I don’t. And factory remanned rotaries? What are those? There are shops that will “rebuild” a rotary for you, but they’re getting fewer and farther between and with the profit margins on them being so tight, it’s hardly worth it really.
So in the end, if you’re running a rotary, get prepared to work on the engine itself more often than you would its piston counterpart. And buy the rotary-specific tools too, ’cause they make a rebuild a lot easier. Assuming that you can even “rebuild” it, that is. The seal kits aren’t exactly plentiful or cheap. Don’t get me started.
Anyway, just another case where a “rebuild” is usually the best option. ‘Course most all rotary owners are DIYers like Xyius referred to, ’cause we have to be. But I digress.
While I can understand – and even agree with – Eric’s POV on the subject, I’ll have to take a 1/2 dissenting opinion. That is, “it depends” would be my answer. Lord Ihcalam and others have already stated various use cases that would result in one decision versus the other, which is the essence of my argument/position on the matter. That said, I’ll provide one additional scenario where a rebuild is usually the way you go, though clearly there are exceptions.
As a rotary engine enthusiast, once you find yourself with a tired engine, you have little choice but a rebuild. Though “rebuild” has a slightly different meaning on our world. And sure, there are used rotaries out there but they aren’t likely to be much better than what you already have. You may get a few hundred or even thousand miles out of one but it is more likely that it’ll break down prior to the point in time that you had planned for it to last. I have two 12As just sitting in my workshop ready to drop in … if I wanted to go that route, but I don’t. And factory remanned rotaries? What are those? There are shops that will “rebuild” a rotary for you, but they’re getting fewer and farther between and with the profit margins on them being so tight, it’s hardly worth it really.
So in the end, if you’re running a rotary, get prepared to work on the engine itself more often than you would its piston counterpart. And buy the rotary-specific tools too, ’cause they make a rebuild a lot easier. Assuming that you can even “rebuild” it, that is. The seal kits aren’t exactly plentiful or cheap. Don’t get me started.
Anyway, just another case where a “rebuild” is usually the best option. ‘Course most all rotary owners are DIYers like Xyius referred to, ’cause we have to be. But I digress.