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Wheel cylinders look fine. No fluid behind the dust boot. I don’t understand why a leaking wheel cylinder would cause the wheel to lock up only on hard braking. I would think that a wheel cylinder to which is defective would cause low brake pedal/low fluid level in addition to a contaminated shoe lining. I have none of these symptoms. Also I was told that applying the brakes with the drums off the vehicle can actually damage the wheel cylinder since it has nothing to stop up against.
Thoughts?Wheel cylinders look fine. No fluid behind the dust boot. I don’t understand why a leaking wheel cylinder would cause the wheel to lock up only on hard braking. I would think that a wheel cylinder to which is defective would cause low brake pedal/low fluid level in addition to a contaminated shoe lining. I have none of these symptoms. Also I was told that applying the brakes with the drums off the vehicle can actually damage the wheel cylinder since it has nothing to stop up against.
Thoughts?Thanks for all the advice here guys. Unfortunately I still haven’t been able to look at the car. It looks like this will be out of my hands now anyway since it seems another shop will tear into it.I still don’t understand how the belt could have thrown. Specially since the car was driven fine for a good while before this happened. Unless the tension assembly failed AGAIN! (it was changed due to inaccurate tension when the job was first done).
Thanks for all the advice here guys. Unfortunately I still haven’t been able to look at the car. It looks like this will be out of my hands now anyway since it seems another shop will tear into it.I still don’t understand how the belt could have thrown. Specially since the car was driven fine for a good while before this happened. Unless the tension assembly failed AGAIN! (it was changed due to inaccurate tension when the job was first done).
I am taking my ASE test in order to beef up my resume and hopefully help myself study a bit more about the automotive industry and its practices. I am aware the these question are heavily theory based/by the book and do not always transfer to real world practice. IN all I will get paid more if I show my employer these certs. They will not even promote me to the next level without them. That being said I think that people should be doing this. It helps make you stand out from the rest of the techs and sort of show that you at least know something about cars. You wont pass if you just walk in off the street in other words. Thanks for your opinion.
I am taking my ASE test in order to beef up my resume and hopefully help myself study a bit more about the automotive industry and its practices. I am aware the these question are heavily theory based/by the book and do not always transfer to real world practice. IN all I will get paid more if I show my employer these certs. They will not even promote me to the next level without them. That being said I think that people should be doing this. It helps make you stand out from the rest of the techs and sort of show that you at least know something about cars. You wont pass if you just walk in off the street in other words. Thanks for your opinion.
the valve cover is likely leaking internally. There are seals around the spark plugs holes (I forgot what they are called for sure) but when you pull the cover off you will see them and you should replace those along with the actual valve cover gasket. I think if you got good compression test on it then its probably not piston rings or a burnt valve. My 2 cents.
the valve cover is likely leaking internally. There are seals around the spark plugs holes (I forgot what they are called for sure) but when you pull the cover off you will see them and you should replace those along with the actual valve cover gasket. I think if you got good compression test on it then its probably not piston rings or a burnt valve. My 2 cents.
was the bracket removed at any point before this or did you just look and found it that way? If you were doing some sort of work on the brakes which required bracket removal, It may just be touching temporarily until you bolt the wheels back on. I had this issue and found that when I bolted up the wheel it kept the rotor center. (I checked clearances before I test drove the vehicle) If you found it that way and your sure the rotor is the correct one for that vehicle it may be possible that something is loose like brackets bolts themselves.
was the bracket removed at any point before this or did you just look and found it that way? If you were doing some sort of work on the brakes which required bracket removal, It may just be touching temporarily until you bolt the wheels back on. I had this issue and found that when I bolted up the wheel it kept the rotor center. (I checked clearances before I test drove the vehicle) If you found it that way and your sure the rotor is the correct one for that vehicle it may be possible that something is loose like brackets bolts themselves.
I would just examine the expansion valve and see if any debris is stuck in it.
defiantly have the system evacuated at a shop.
you can buy the necessary tools to pull a vacuum and recharge the system (don’t use any stop leak refrigerant) or you can have a shop recharge it. I would recharge with dye just in case there is a leak from the repair or later on down the road.
Anyway if your new at this I would allow a good amount of time to tackle the job.I would just examine the expansion valve and see if any debris is stuck in it.
defiantly have the system evacuated at a shop.
you can buy the necessary tools to pull a vacuum and recharge the system (don’t use any stop leak refrigerant) or you can have a shop recharge it. I would recharge with dye just in case there is a leak from the repair or later on down the road.
Anyway if your new at this I would allow a good amount of time to tackle the job.How did you bleed the brakes? If all you did was flush the fluid or perform a bleed after a brake job it may be possible that you some how allowed air to get sucked back up through the bleeder. In this case I would look at your procedure for bleeding and change it as necessary or just re bleed the brakes and go from there. Also I agree with the above post.
How did you bleed the brakes? If all you did was flush the fluid or perform a bleed after a brake job it may be possible that you some how allowed air to get sucked back up through the bleeder. In this case I would look at your procedure for bleeding and change it as necessary or just re bleed the brakes and go from there. Also I agree with the above post.