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[quote=”futten” post=171770]no drop in brake fluid in the old master cylinder i could notice i wish eric would be available to answer as hes experienced with honda sure brakes are pretty much identical on all cars[/quote]
Yeah, it would be nice if Eric could answer everyone’s questions (that would sure help me!). I’m sure modern brake systems are more similar to each other now, but that didn’t use to be the case.
Anyway, I’ve found the causes of issues like these before by disconnecting the brake lines at certain points and closing them off or bypassing them, thereby isolating specific components. You’d need some hydraulic fittings (couplings, plugs, lengths of tubing or hose, etc.) to do that. It’s a lot of work but I’ve needed to do it with older cars where the information just isn’t out there. But, eventually, with a soft pedal, I’ve always ended up finding a leak or air in the system. However, I haven’t worked on ABS much, so that might be another cause I’m not familiar with.
Just a burned out heater in the O2 sensor (code 41).
Thanks. Yeah, no fun buying unneeded parts, but still a lot cheaper than having to take the car to a shop (not to mention being without the car, having to get rides there and back, etc…)!
FWIW, I’ve gotten really frozen stuff like that apart with a zip gun and a punch tip – even when torching and big hammers didn’t work. In my experience, penetrating oils are worthless and you can almost never swing a hammer hard enough, with enough accuracy or repeatedly where needed to do as well. I like the idea of freezing the part and then heating the outer section. Never tried that, but it would either have to be off the car or you’d need a lot of that freeze chemical. Anyway, I’m big on zip guns. Get a good one and lots of ear/eye/face/hand protection.
One other suggestion for getting the right part: Check the part number on a legitimate retailer’s website. Better yet, check a few. Rockauto is a good place to buy stuff if you know exactly what you want. But they also list stuff as appropriate for a particular car, and it isn’t. They don’t check their parts for fit; they go by the information provided to them by their suppliers. If it’s wrong, they just say, “sorry, send it back”. And while their guarantee covers those kinds of returns, it can get time consuming, expensive (you have to pay the postage) and annoying. Anyway, get the factory part number and match it to whatever you’re buying. OEMs generally supply cross references.
I’m not familiar with the RSX braking system. But it could be a cylinder leaking inside the booster. If you’re going to order a new one anyway, you might try disassembling the booster and checking for that. I’ve seen this same problem in older cars and always found brake fluid in the booster vacuum chamber. Have you noticed if your fluid level is dropping but not finding any leaks?
In case anyone is following this topic or is going through the same problem, I thought I’d provide a little update and information:
I got hold of the factory shop manual for the car and found the full procedure for checking the (OBD1) codes. That procedure includes pulling the backup power fuse for the ECU (7.5 amp) and re-inserting it after 10 seconds. When I gave that a try, I found that the fuse was blown. I replaced it and the CEL started displaying the fault code. On this car, no separate code reader is required and the shop manual does not call for one.
The necessity of resetting the ECU, and also that a blown backup power fuse will prevent the codes from displaying on the CEL have been missed in all of the explanations of this procedure that I’ve seen online. So I thought it worth mentioning here. Btw, at least on a ’94 Accord LX, the clock and radio are both on the same circuit. Neither were working but I was going to address those problems later. Replacing that fuse also fixed them, as it turned out.